derp22
Member
why waste money? just sit in the car and let it idle for 30 secs before switching off
Turbo timers
- Thread starter BJ Navara
- Start date
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I have a TT fitted to my D40 but only use it when towing or on long trips.
Generally around town you'll find that if you plan your drive and take it easy for the last couple of minutes, your turbo isn't going to be hot enough to cook the oil in the bearings.
They're useful if you are pushing the engine hard - particularly when loaded - and come to a stop, for example you've climbed the Liverpool Ranges and stop in the rest area at the top for a break (as people do). Your turbo would be red-hot after that, and allowing it to cool for a couple of minutes is important.
But in general use, as long as you keep it in the back of your mind that you can't hammer it and shut down - so take it gently for the last part of the drive - you don't really need one.
While it's also true that newer turbos and newer oils are better and survive longer, oil is still oil and heat is still heat and we've seen enough blown turbochargers where the bearings have failed and the compressor wheels have detonated, throwing debris into the intercooler (or motor, if there's no IC) to warrant some care with your turbo.
Generally around town you'll find that if you plan your drive and take it easy for the last couple of minutes, your turbo isn't going to be hot enough to cook the oil in the bearings.
They're useful if you are pushing the engine hard - particularly when loaded - and come to a stop, for example you've climbed the Liverpool Ranges and stop in the rest area at the top for a break (as people do). Your turbo would be red-hot after that, and allowing it to cool for a couple of minutes is important.
But in general use, as long as you keep it in the back of your mind that you can't hammer it and shut down - so take it gently for the last part of the drive - you don't really need one.
While it's also true that newer turbos and newer oils are better and survive longer, oil is still oil and heat is still heat and we've seen enough blown turbochargers where the bearings have failed and the compressor wheels have detonated, throwing debris into the intercooler (or motor, if there's no IC) to warrant some care with your turbo.
Well said and great info there tony.
Can you clarify for us, what the situation is on the TT and the central locking debate for the D40??
My TT stops the central locking from working.
The work-around is to relocate the driving light control to the centre of the console, move the central locking switch to the right side, open the window fully. Turn the engine off, get out (engine running), reach in and lock the doors, then hit the window-up switch to bring the window back up. Car is secured.
I haven't done that in mine, mostly because I don't use my TT that often and when I do, I don't stray far from the car before it shuts down on its own anyway.
The work-around is to relocate the driving light control to the centre of the console, move the central locking switch to the right side, open the window fully. Turn the engine off, get out (engine running), reach in and lock the doors, then hit the window-up switch to bring the window back up. Car is secured.
I haven't done that in mine, mostly because I don't use my TT that often and when I do, I don't stray far from the car before it shuts down on its own anyway.
BJ Navara
Member
I know I started this, but I never shut down after a hard run for 2-3 minutes anyway, and I can't see the point of having a Timer if I have to sit in the truck and wait for it so I can leave the truck in gear.
It's a steep drive, and I came home last night to find the neighbour's car had rolled itself down their drive and collected their letterbox, which stopped it ending up in the street.
So, thanks all for the advice, it is appreciated, but, for me, and my piece of mind, the truck stays in gear when shut down.
It's a steep drive, and I came home last night to find the neighbour's car had rolled itself down their drive and collected their letterbox, which stopped it ending up in the street.
So, thanks all for the advice, it is appreciated, but, for me, and my piece of mind, the truck stays in gear when shut down.
X-D22pilot
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X-D22pilot
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All done, easy to fit, set it to a default of 3 mins idle down, mounted it on the panel next to the ignition switch facing the driver, in-between the heat switch and the ignition, hope 3 mins is enough 
d22dave
Member
mines on 3 minutes,
bods
Member
I dunno about the zd30's but the yd25 3 min is heaps. Even after fairly hard drives mine cools down enough within 1 min to shut down, if it has been highway driving I sometimes put it u to 1.5 min or maybe 2 but it doesn't take long to cool down at all.
I can't imagine the zd30 would be much worse, but 3 min should be heaps either way. My timer doubles as a volt meter when the engine is running so at least I don't need another gauge mounted somewhere...
I can't imagine the zd30 would be much worse, but 3 min should be heaps either way. My timer doubles as a volt meter when the engine is running so at least I don't need another gauge mounted somewhere...
d22dave
Member
I drive 25k,s to get to town, all open road 100 kph limit and up and down a few hills. So in my case i,m happy to leave it to cool down a little longer
bods
Member
Yeah that's fair enough. I have a Pyro gauge too so I can see how hot it is. Just plodding around town I normally shut it down straight away, but travelling at higher speeds I let it run on a bit longer
d22dave
Member
When i put the dump pipe on i had a insert welded on for if or when i decide to put a pyro on the nav. I know its after the turbo but it was easier the pipe was on the bench
bods
Member
mine's the same, just in the stock dump pipe but if i ever get around to putting an aftermarket dump pipe on it and have to pull the turbo to do it i may put it in the manifold instead...
d22dave
Member
I,ve heard the horror storys on here having to unbolt the turbo to get dump pipe of. All I can say is plenty of crc or wd40 and let it soak in. my bolts all came undone on the dump and heatsheild, without much drama. Used the double nut trick to get the bottom studs out.
