mad navara
Member
What about a 20mm(3/4 of an inch or so?) Mild steal spacer between the manifold and turbo? Thick enough to thread the egt probe in...
Uk diesel chip
- Thread starter Stellafella
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bods
Member
Most probe couplers are 3/8" so even 1/2" should be enough. Maybe 3/4" just to be safe, the issue then is lining the dump like up with the exhaust system, unless you have an aftermarket one and can mod it to suit. Then the length of silicon joiners between the turbo and intercooler in the yd25 models or the crossover pipe in the zd30 if its not intercooled.
And if you were going to go to that effort you may as well remove the turbo and just drill and tap the manifold instead...
And if you were going to go to that effort you may as well remove the turbo and just drill and tap the manifold instead...
I like the idea of the thick plate at the end of the manifold. Means I can manufacture it outside the vehicle and get it to work securely, then install - the turbocharger should be unaffected. In fact, if I can make it with a ceramic liner, the electrical isolation will also be achieved. It allows the probe to be positioned perfectly, and no metal filings or shavings will be dropped into the exhaust to interfere with the DPF.
There's a shield at the back of the dump pipe and I'd have to make sure that I don't move this too far back that it starts affecting the firewall.
Actually, if I add a plate to the rear of the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger also moves back, which means all of the hosing and piping (air and oil) needs to relocate by a small amount as well. Might still be achievable - will have to have a good look and see how much movement I can get away with.
There's a shield at the back of the dump pipe and I'd have to make sure that I don't move this too far back that it starts affecting the firewall.
Actually, if I add a plate to the rear of the exhaust manifold, the turbocharger also moves back, which means all of the hosing and piping (air and oil) needs to relocate by a small amount as well. Might still be achievable - will have to have a good look and see how much movement I can get away with.
mad navara
Member
Sounds like it can be done
baitfish
Member
Old Tony,
What type of probe do you have? Thermocouple or a RTD? Does it give any reason as to why it has to be electrically isolated?
just wondering if this is to isolate the probe from any stray currents running around the car? i know mine needs that grounding to provide a return path for the screening around the signal cable.
Cheers,
What type of probe do you have? Thermocouple or a RTD? Does it give any reason as to why it has to be electrically isolated?
just wondering if this is to isolate the probe from any stray currents running around the car? i know mine needs that grounding to provide a return path for the screening around the signal cable.
Cheers,
I haven't even looked into it, just glossed over the "what's needed" for the Jaycar 1200C Temperature Kit.
baitfish
Member
Going by the picutre on the website it looks like a Thermocouple, only a two pin plug, a RTD is a 3 wire device.
Thermocouples use millivolts as their signal so can be effected by induced voltage very easily. so i would have thought the cable would be screened and grounded through the probe being attached the ute, thus grounding any stray volatge before it effects the reading.
any ways thats just what i was thinking, was just interested at the fact that it had to be isolated from the utes grounding.
on a side note, any plans for the output from the card? just a warning light or use it to activate extra cooling of some type?
It seems like a pretty cheap set up and i was thinking i could use this to turn off my chip if the ute goes into the dangerous temperature. Plans on installing yours any time soon Tony?
Thermocouples use millivolts as their signal so can be effected by induced voltage very easily. so i would have thought the cable would be screened and grounded through the probe being attached the ute, thus grounding any stray volatge before it effects the reading.
any ways thats just what i was thinking, was just interested at the fact that it had to be isolated from the utes grounding.
on a side note, any plans for the output from the card? just a warning light or use it to activate extra cooling of some type?
It seems like a pretty cheap set up and i was thinking i could use this to turn off my chip if the ute goes into the dangerous temperature. Plans on installing yours any time soon Tony?
No plans just yet until I can resolve what I'm going to mount the probe with. Hadn't considered the stray voltage issue, I might add some shielding myself to avoid that problem.
I know it's also a switch - and I'm fairly sure that this is the unit that ChipIt use (and charge you a few hundred $ for) to turn their chip off - but I have no intention to do much more than display the temperature. I could make it sound an alert, but I also have that on my phone (coolant temperature alert set up in Torque).
I know it's also a switch - and I'm fairly sure that this is the unit that ChipIt use (and charge you a few hundred $ for) to turn their chip off - but I have no intention to do much more than display the temperature. I could make it sound an alert, but I also have that on my phone (coolant temperature alert set up in Torque).
I think Chipit get theirs here. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=230
It's what i use.
It's what i use.
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baitfish
Member
yeah chipit use the auberins ones, well thats what they look like in their pictures.
Tony how big is the circuit board easy enough to hide away?
i just looked at the link again, should have read it properly the first time
" Probe does NOT have isolated case. Kit requires probe with insulated case, if mounted to common ground."
the junction point must not be isolated inside its little steel tube. might be easier to buy a type k thermocouple that has its tip insulated rather than trying to insulate the probe you have now.
Thats what i'd do because i'm lazy and always in a rush! You seem to be a man of patience old Tony, seen u answer the same questions on here thousands of times! sometimes its like the threads are created only a matter of few days apart and you still seem to keep your cool. so i guess you'll be able to sort a grounding issue rather easily.
Tony how big is the circuit board easy enough to hide away?
i just looked at the link again, should have read it properly the first time
" Probe does NOT have isolated case. Kit requires probe with insulated case, if mounted to common ground."
the junction point must not be isolated inside its little steel tube. might be easier to buy a type k thermocouple that has its tip insulated rather than trying to insulate the probe you have now.
Thats what i'd do because i'm lazy and always in a rush! You seem to be a man of patience old Tony, seen u answer the same questions on here thousands of times! sometimes its like the threads are created only a matter of few days apart and you still seem to keep your cool. so i guess you'll be able to sort a grounding issue rather easily.
If the type K thermocouple had the same thermal characteristics then it'd be a big possibility.
The unit's sort of halfway between a matchbox and a deck of cards in size. I wonder if I could grab something like a HO2S and its mount and use that by drilling it?
The unit's sort of halfway between a matchbox and a deck of cards in size. I wonder if I could grab something like a HO2S and its mount and use that by drilling it?
baitfish
Member
HO2S? Heated oxygen sensor? had to google that one! Do you mean drill its center out and mount the probe inside the sensor?
the jay kit probe is more than likely a K type probe. they are the most common, and cover a very wide range of temps. they cover from like -100 odd to 1300 odd degrees. made from cheap metals as well, so cheap to buy compared to type b. i don't know if you can see the core colors on the sensor at all but normally k type are red and yellow.
the jay kit probe is more than likely a K type probe. they are the most common, and cover a very wide range of temps. they cover from like -100 odd to 1300 odd degrees. made from cheap metals as well, so cheap to buy compared to type b. i don't know if you can see the core colors on the sensor at all but normally k type are red and yellow.
I don't have the kit handy (it's boxed away, we're going to start moving house soon).
Yes, a heated oxygen sensor - structurally the surrounds and mount for the HO2S are obviously strong enough to sit in the exhaust stream, so drilling the centre out and sliding a ceramic insulator plus the probe in should provide the isolation needed.
However, I do like the idea of a thick plate mounted on the back of the exhaust manifold. I just need to figure out how to isolate the thing electrically - now one way would be to coat the plate with ceramic?
Yes, a heated oxygen sensor - structurally the surrounds and mount for the HO2S are obviously strong enough to sit in the exhaust stream, so drilling the centre out and sliding a ceramic insulator plus the probe in should provide the isolation needed.
However, I do like the idea of a thick plate mounted on the back of the exhaust manifold. I just need to figure out how to isolate the thing electrically - now one way would be to coat the plate with ceramic?
baitfish
Member
yeah i guess the ceramic might work mate, haven't had much to do with the coating stuff. Not sure how good the insulating properties are, thought it was manly for heat reflection and entrapment. Might break down enough to allow voltage through when the turbo is tensioned up onto it? only guessing about that but.
Yeah I was worried about that, which is why making it from a failed HO2S would be the smarter idea. I might pursue that avenue instead.
