Winding up the torsion bars.

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Just picked up for ute the other day from getting 2" lift done, has been back twice as now as they originally put in the wrong rear springs, more info on another thread. But my question is should the torsion bar adjusters be equal on both sides when looking under the vehicle......I also have about 6-7mm difference from drivers side and passenger side to ground......? Your thoughts. Pics for your thoughts below.

matt-vnet-pro-albums-randoms-matt-picture285-dscf5348.jpg


matt-vnet-pro-albums-randoms-matt-picture284-dscf5346.jpg

Hey Matt,

Did you change shockies and rear spring packs too or just add a leaf? Are they new HD torsion bars or just stock and wound up?

I'm planning a 2 inch lift soon too. As I don't take mine on rough off road stuff, I don't need massive travel or incredible shocks. Mine mostly does dirt tracks and beaches with the odd dunes throw in too. I don't drive it hard so fail to see why the stock shocks won't do until they wear out. I'm thinking heavy spring packs and torsion bars though coz when we go away, she's loaded down heavy as and towing a boat too.

Cheers for the reply in advance.

DJ
 
But my question is should the torsion bar adjusters be equal on both sides when looking under the vehicle......

matt-vnet-pro-albums-randoms-matt-picture284-dscf5346.jpg

It doesn't really matter until you damage one on a rock or similar. As ^ said they are just re-indexed wrong. 6-7mm soulds like one spline. They should be pretty much horizontal and protected by the crossmember.

Once corrected, paint a line across the bolt so you can tell if she has come loose.
 
Hey Matt,

Did you change shockies and rear spring packs too or just add a leaf? Are they new HD torsion bars or just stock and wound up?

I'm planning a 2 inch lift soon too. As I don't take mine on rough off road stuff, I don't need massive travel or incredible shocks. Mine mostly does dirt tracks and beaches with the odd dunes throw in too. I don't drive it hard so fail to see why the stock shocks won't do until they wear out. I'm thinking heavy spring packs and torsion bars though coz when we go away, she's loaded down heavy as and towing a boat too.

Cheers for the reply in advance.

DJ

G'Day Deejay, Yeah changed rear springs over to Ridepro H/D, Torsion Bars to EFS and shocks all round to Rancho RSX9000X, had Boss Air Bags already installed. Not a bad ride now, just need to get these adjusters right........
 
It doesn't really matter until you damage one on a rock or similar. As ^ said they are just re-indexed wrong. 6-7mm soulds like one spline. They should be pretty much horizontal and protected by the crossmember.

Once corrected, paint a line across the bolt so you can tell if she has come loose.

G'Day Tommy, Basically the mechanics have done a shit job then......looks like I'll have to have a crack at fixing it all up myself, just means another wheel alignment again......never ending this shit.
 
G'Day Tommy, Basically the mechanics have done a shit job then......

Not shit, just plain lazy and sloppy!

(Caution Rant and off topic) Might be worth taking it back, and showing them how to do it right. (might be able to use their hoist for free at the very least) Obviously they need some training.

They other month Dad borrowed my Nav for a trip to the flinders for 2 weeks. Got some bad fuel somewhere, clogged the filter and the ecu went into limp home mode. Dad thought ****. Took it to a mechanic. He (the mechanic) said that the Nav shouldn't have a catalitic converter and a sensor in the exhaust was gone. Anyone with any knowledge knows that all new diesels have a cat or DPF. And to make matters worse, D22 Zd30's don't have any sensors in the exhaust.:angry:
 
hey guys.

iv been playing with my torsion bar adjustments and i was wondering if they ( the torsion adjustments ) need to be the same or should i determine by looking at the gaps between the bump stops and compare to either sides?

iv tried jacking the navara off its wheels and onto stands, tightening the torsion bars all the way up and then afew turns back, doin the same for both sides

But when i check the gaps between the bump stops ( after a quick drive ), the gaps arnt the same?! i think its pulling to the right now....

someone help lol

Simon
 
adjuster bolts don't have to be the same. use ride height (bottom hub to guard) to get them level but ensure you have about 10mm gap with bumpstop. and yeah the adjuster backet needs to tucked up nicely into the crossmembers. i can't believe they left it like they did for matt. geez.
 
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hmm..

need to get back under there 2moro or sunday and figure it out, such a basterd to get the levels right.

will the torsion bars effect the steering?
if so

my navara is pulling to the right, do i tighten or loosen the right torsion bar?
 
it will effect the steering till you get a wheel alignment. lifting the front changes the camber of the front wheels so if you haven't had a wheel alignment after you wound up your TBs get one asap as it will quickly wear your tyres unevenly.
 
Wound mine up about 2 1/2 inch (10mm from bump stop) and got the wheel alignment done back to spec OK. The upper control arm has offcentered bushes for camber adjustment. Driven 60 thou and no problems with tyre wear (excluding when I have been too lazy to get another allignment). The torsion adjuster arms should be up inside the cross-member so they are not exposed but won't necessarly be equal as splines are machiened in to the parts and aren't the same on each so go by the vehicle height. When adjusting the torsion arms, jack the vehicle up and support it on jack stands before doing up the adjuster bolts otherwise you risk stripping the bolt (according tho the Nissan service manual). Don't worry about breaking CV's as the upper/lower limits of travel remain the same and you break CV's when pressured at full lock or from jolting. If you want an extra couple of inches then get under your truck and do it, it is pretty easy!!!

Cheers
 
thanks Peter

im under the truck as im typrin this msg lol.

iv wound the adjusters on both TBs to max and the height is different so now i have to do it the long way..

does anyone know if the TBs can effect the steering so it'l pull left/right?

mine has always done it but im not sure if its gotten worse or not, mayb its all in my head...
 
Curious, anyone measured stock d22 down travel? with my TBs wound up and when measured i have 50mm down travel on full droop. I don't think you;d want any less then that and i'd probably prefer another 10mm or so. what are some of you guys measuring at full droop after your TB wind up?
 
Curious, anyone measured stock d22 down travel? with my TBs wound up and when measured i have 50mm down travel on full droop. I don't think you;d want any less then that and i'd probably prefer another 10mm or so. what are some of you guys measuring at full droop after your TB wind up?

Not sure, but the bumpstop compresses a far bit when the UCA is flexed up.

Will measure tomorrow for you.

BTW, what are your guys measuring from the bottom of the rim to the guard (with the std 10-15mm bumpstop gap)?
 
Thanks all for their posts here, very helpfull, Shonky your instructions really helped. :cheers!: Aido thanks for answering my q's
Mine had dropped considerably after fitting bullbar and winch. There was only 4-5mm at the bottom, so I was getting a lot of 'thunking' when cornering, especially on rutted rds. I managed to wind them back close to origional height, now 15mm at the bottom, and about 25mm at the top. I could probably go a bit more, but I'll monitor this over the next few weeks. The ride is improved, much firmer in the front and not as much 'dive' in the front when cornering.
It is likely that all of the weight at the front with the bbar and winch, will require HD torsion bars, but if I can get 6 months more out of these I'll be happy.
I think Dion's points about creating 'lift' from this process are fair, and when you look between the rubber stoppers, you only have so much room to play with. However, early indications from my point of view are that you can at least get back to origional height.
 

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