Help! No Dip beam headlights

I wonder if someone can help me. I seem to have lost dip beam headlights on my 2008 Navara, high beam works fine so i am thinking its just a fuse.
Had a look in the fuse boxes and there doesnt seem to be one.
Can anyone help me please? unable to drive in the dark now!

I'm guessing a few other things are't quite working properly either....this has happened to me. The fix for my problem was to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for approximately 2 minutes - reconnect and then all good.

Pete22 said:

I'm guessing a few other things are't quite working properly either....this has happened to me. The fix for my problem was to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for approximately 2 minutes - reconnect and then all good.

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ooh, thanks i will try that when its stops raining NOt driven it since the lights have stopped working so not sure if anything else is not working.
WIll give it a try and let you know

xswiftyx said:

ooh, thanks i will try that when its stops raining NOt driven it since the lights have stopped working so not sure if anything else is not working.
WIll give it a try and let you know

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One of the other things that happens is that while the blinkers still blink on the side selected the green dash indicators both blink....if that makes sense. Another bloke I know who has had the problem sought the advice of an autosparky who believes it is an earth problem from some of the aftermarket kit he has fitted. Could be but I haven't been able to find any problem - and I have a raft of after market eletrical stuff.

xswiftyx said:

I wonder if someone can help me. I seem to have lost dip beam headlights on my 2008 Navara, high beam works fine so i am thinking its just a fuse.
Had a look in the fuse boxes and there doesnt seem to be one.
Can anyone help me please? unable to drive in the dark now!

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Which fuse box were you looking in? The fuses are under the bonnet, not in the cab.

There's a section in the manual (LT.PDF, page 22/116) that describes how to ensure that the headlights operate in synch with the headlight switch. You need a Consult-II device to manipulate this, and that's going to be a "see Nissan".

If it isn't the fuses, you'll have to take it to the shop.

Dammit there is fuses everywhere on these things. What ever happened to a wire from the battery through a switch to the lights (and a three inch nail acting as a fuse).

As 08Kingcab said the fuses are under the bonnet and there appears to be two 15 Amp ones for the low beam circuit

Old.Tony said:

There's a section in the manual (LT.PDF, page 22/116) that describes how to ensure that the headlights operate in synch with the headlight switch. You need a Consult-II device to manipulate this, and that's going to be a "see Nissan".

If it isn't the fuses, you'll have to take it to the shop.

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Wow, the D40 seems to be quite a complex beast on some things.

Wow, the D40 seems to be quite a complex beast on some things.

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There are some features I am just not sure I'd be using, like the one that involves this very symptom. Here's the exact text from the manual:

FRIENDLY LIGHTING FUNCTION
This function starts timer function of BCM by operating passing switch, and illuminates headlamps (LOW beam) for a given length of time.
Headlamps (LOW beam) stay ON for a given length of time by operating passing switch when ignition switch is OFF and lighting switch is OFF.
Headlamps (LOW beam) stays ON for two minutes at a maximum by operating passing switch repeatedly.
CONSULT-II is capable of setting a lighting time. Refer to LT-15, "WORK SUPPORT".

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I've been wondering about the CONSULT-II software and mucking about with a bluetooth connection to my laptop ... but like I said before, I'll be very, very careful there. There's way too many options.

Old.Tony said:

There are some features I am just not sure I'd be using, like the one that involves this very symptom. Here's the exact text from the manual:



I've been wondering about the CONSULT-II software and mucking about with a bluetooth connection to my laptop ... but like I said before, I'll be very, very careful there. There's way too many options.

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Isn't that all too do with being able to turn the headlights on without having the keys in the ignition or the engine running. They just go on for 2 mins and automatically turn off.

I reckon that whole feature is an overkill and something I wont ever use, there is a lot more things i;d rather be altering if i had the time to play with settings other than that.

It looks like the 'Courtesy Light' thing that lets you get in the front door. I think it's a handy feature but like you guys I wouldn't be playing with CONSULT II things too much. Hopefully it's not tied to the OP's problem.

According to the manual (I knew there was a reason I loaded it) there is two 15Amp fuses for the low beam in what they are referring to as the IPDM E/R which is just behind the battery. (positions 40 and 41) There is other fuses and links but this seems to be the main reference for low beam inactivity.


Going by the manual once again if you had that consult-II program the adjustment of the timer for the head lights staying on is quite a straight forward operation. Not sure I'd want to play with too much else in there (not yet anyway) but the headlamps is a simple setting changeable to OFF, MODE 1 or MODE 2.

KraftyPg said:

Dammit there is fuses everywhere on these things. What ever happened to a wire from the battery through a switch to the lights (and a three inch nail acting as a fuse).

As 08Kingcab said the fuses are under the bonnet and there appears to be two 15 Amp ones for the low beam circuit

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Also, they are different in size just to make it more difficult.

Another avenue is the switch itself, the switching current is sometimes enough to arc slightly on the contacts and they are dirtied sufficiently over thousands of switchings that the resistance in the circuit becomes too high to throw the relay. The solution is to carefully clean the contacts as per Google instructions on cleaning switch contacts. HOWEVER, the OP's vehicle is so new I can't see that being the issue, PLUS the symptom is typically ONE high/low beam failing and not BOTH, AND I imagine the newer stalks are switched not with silver/gold/copper contacts but rather with The Force or maybe kryptonite, so my contribution to the discussion is Nil.

Pro-Nav2.7TDi said:

Another avenue is the switch itself

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That was my first thought but then I thought just how much I'd dislike finding out it was a problem in my ute so I remained silent. In a new vehicle I'd hope it was only fuses anyway

I still reckon that the fix for his original problem is to disconnect the neutral terminal of the battery for a couple of minutes....you guys a looking for something that may well not be there. How do I know this fix.......microsoft solution to a problem I've experienced on at least 3 separate occasions.

Pete22 said:

.microsoft solution to a problem I've experienced on at least 3 separate occasions.

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You've disconnected your car battery and fixed Windows? damn in all my years as an MCSE I never thought of that, never thought the car was close enough to the computer to make a difference.

Wow loads of responses! Tried disconnecting the battery but that didnt make a difference. Just drove with the front fogs on last night. Its fine but not ideal.
I checked all fuse boxes, the one in the glove box and 2 in the engine bay. I will checkout these 15amp fuses. IPDM E/R that is aparently low beam. (They dont make it easy do they?!)

Lucky its summer and it doesnt get dark till late.

SOLID D22 said:

Lucky its summer and it doesnt get dark till late.

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For you maybe I am in the UK and its dark by 4.30pm