Fuse burnout
- Thread starter Chartrock
- Start date
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Wow. Looks like just enough current was pulled through the fuse to turn it into a 12V heater element.
What were you running on it?
What were you running on it?
Chartrock
Member
Hi Jason, it was on the charging side. I can't say how long it was like that as my first indication was that my second battery would not run my compressor.
I looked for a reason why it was not charging and this appeared to be a fair possibility.
The replacement has been running fine for two weeks.
Was it the only thing between the voltage regulator and the second battery?
If the second battery was severely discharged, the alternator may have been dumping current into it. The D22 has what, a 70A alternator?
That'd fry the fuse. Should have blown it, although the steady current to a battery may have protected the fuse.
Personally I wouldn't put a heavier cable and higher rating fuse in, because the battery may not like having that much current dumped in it. I'd put a 20A fuse in it to protect everything.
If the second battery was severely discharged, the alternator may have been dumping current into it. The D22 has what, a 70A alternator?
That'd fry the fuse. Should have blown it, although the steady current to a battery may have protected the fuse.
Personally I wouldn't put a heavier cable and higher rating fuse in, because the battery may not like having that much current dumped in it. I'd put a 20A fuse in it to protect everything.
Chartrock
Member
Jason there is not enough left to tell if there was lousy contacts on the fuse but I am watching the replacement.
Tony, the fuse was between the main battery and the dual battery isolator and the alternator is a 60 Amp version. The wiring does not seem to be warm when the isolator cuts in so that part appears OK.
I am considering upgrading the isolator from a Calibre (from Supercheap) to a Redarc or something similar although it may have to wait a couple of months until I get back from holidays.
Tony, the fuse was between the main battery and the dual battery isolator and the alternator is a 60 Amp version. The wiring does not seem to be warm when the isolator cuts in so that part appears OK.
I am considering upgrading the isolator from a Calibre (from Supercheap) to a Redarc or something similar although it may have to wait a couple of months until I get back from holidays.
most likely it wil be caused by poor terminals. cut away the plastic and pull out the terminals. i'll bet they will be well and truly cooked.
what can happen is the terminals get hot and high heat over long time turns the plastic into carbon. that can track/short so the whole fuse holder literally becomes a heating element, hence the big melt down.
i would not use an pre wired fuse holders, especially when most are ex china. make your own fuse connections.
what can happen is the terminals get hot and high heat over long time turns the plastic into carbon. that can track/short so the whole fuse holder literally becomes a heating element, hence the big melt down.
i would not use an pre wired fuse holders, especially when most are ex china. make your own fuse connections.
Chartrock
Member
Thanks Tweak'e, I will have a look. As for making my own fuse holder, there still has to be connectors etc which probably still come from China so I can't be much better off. 
not really. the connectors themselves are not often the problem but the method of fitting the wire on is. you can do a much better job yourself.Thanks Tweak'e, I will have a look. As for making my own fuse holder, there still has to be connectors etc which probably still come from China so I can't be much better off.
