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  #11  
Old 04-10-2018, 07:33 AM
spiezzy spiezzy is offline
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Ok the MAFS reading on my EDS is at idle 18.7 and under load at 100klm its around 107 I went up and got a genuine air filter today haven't popped it in yet but will do when i get home see how it goes hahah yep I know what you mean about the Bat mobile on the series 200
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  #12  
Old 21-10-2018, 02:26 AM
spiezzy spiezzy is offline
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Ok I have located the suction control Valve and its quite accessible on top of the high pressure fuel pump 3 bolts hold it down if the air intake hose and cold side plumbing of the intercooler and it should give you clear access to it I will remove it and give it a good clean the diesel mechanic here said it should be changed at about 1500000ks because it runs on very tight tolerances
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  #13  
Old 21-10-2018, 10:37 AM
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He's not wrong. The V9X also runs up to 1800BAR, 100BAR higher than the YD25 rail.
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  #14  
Old 22-10-2018, 09:32 AM
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thanks for confirming that Tony he also said a slightly worn one can cause over fuelling and black smoke on sharp acceleration and said its the first place to start looking before injectors and such and much cheaper if that is the problem he also mentioned with my vehicle due to my fuel economy at 9.4 it is highly unlikely the injectors more likely MAFs or suction valve or a small crack in intercooler as there is no leaks in the plumbing anymore all nice and sealed .

Last edited by spiezzy; 22-10-2018 at 09:39 AM.
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  #15  
Old 22-10-2018, 10:23 AM
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I don't think he's wrong. The SCV in the YD25 ran me about $280 but a set of injectors from Nissan is $4K, we found a set of genuine Denso injectors (to match my engine) for $1500 on eBay, still dearer than the SCV regardless. The MAFS could just be dirty and is easily cleaned but ONLY with electrical contact cleaner fluid (also sold at auto places as "MAFS Cleaner", same stuff). You take out the MAFs, spray this in the little hole and watch the black stuff pour out. When it runs clear you hold it for about 30 seconds before reinstalling to make sure all the cleaning fluid has evaporated.

You might also pop your intercooler off. It has two openings. Grab a can of petrol (who cares what kind, E10 is cheaper and just as good). Put your hand over one of the openings, with the intercooler resting on that hand, and pour about 100ml of petrol into the other opening. Put your hand on the other opening and turn the intercooler up the other way so the petrol runs down through the cores. You'll find it will build up pressure as you do this, release the UPPER hand (or you'll be sprayed with black shit that won't come out of the clothing, ask me how I know).

I do that 5 or 6 times until the petrol comes out showing some of the colour that it had when it went in and it does help.

Liqui Moly sell an injector cleaner that is pretty bloody good, too. It even helped prolong the life of my SCV there for a while, so give that a try - "Fuel System Treatment". You can also use the Diesel Purge, but that's a bit more fiddly (although it's also quite a lot faster than the one you throw in the tank).

Finally - if all else fails - you would have to start considering the turbocharger. It's cheaper than injectors too, and in my experience fails sooner than the injectors do. That would be time for analysis of the boost pressures being produced though, and an investigation into the boost control device. On my YD25, a vacuum produced by the engine is modulated by a Boost Control Solenoid (BCS) and this is then fed to the diaphragm of the actuator on the turbocharger. I've replaced my hoses twice, and the BCS twice, and now I don't use a BCS at all, I'm using a Tilix valve to control the boost. The Tilix valve works pretty well, to be honest, and is cheaper and more reliable than the BCS. There is no check engine light for a failed or faulty BCS in my car. Yours will very likely be different, as in 2011 or thereabouts they changed the turbocharger's vane control to electronic. Yours might be faulty - you won't know until someone with experience of that turbocharger takes a look.
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  #16  
Old 23-10-2018, 07:31 AM
spiezzy spiezzy is offline
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thanks once again Tony for your valuable advice it funny you mentioned the BCS as mine makes a funny buzzing sound and I have always felt it didn't sound right this is at idle and is intermittent
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  #17  
Old 23-10-2018, 10:36 AM
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Does your car have a vacuum controlled vane actuator on the turbocharger?

If so, that could EASILY be the reason for smoke. Vacuum lines don't last forever, and the BCS is probably my most hated component in that engine bay.

There's one way to test it if you take care with the car ... connect the vac pump directly to the actuator (just remove the hose from the BCS and put that on the actuator). The turbo will provide FULL boost ALL the time now, so you have to be careful - it will boost like mad. If your smoke issue goes away, consider a Tilix valve as an alternative to the BCS, but be aware that the BCS is controlled by the ECU and will bring boost on earlier than the Tilix valve, which cna only react to the pressures present.
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2018, 09:30 AM
spiezzy spiezzy is offline
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hi Tony just have a quick question I got my hands on some Liqui Molly diesel purge and had a look on You tube to see how it is done but nothing on the V6 diesel I know there are sensors on the fuel filter and you need to put the 2 hoses into the bottle and let it run on the Liqui Molly run the engine will this upset the sensors or anything else ? what would you recommend cheers Pete
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2018, 11:21 AM
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If you're really worried about mucking with the fuel filter (since I don't have a V9X myself I can't really say "pop this or that hose" and help you) there is an alternative that just takes a little more effort and time. You do have to trust your instincts on your fuel gauge though ...


Drive your car until there's about 5 litres of fuel left in the tank. Usually when my low fuel light comes on I've got 15 litres, and since my car (not towing) gets around 12LPHK, if I drove for another 7 litres worth (7 * 100/12) I'd drive for 60km ... then I'd pull over, pour the whole can into my tank, and drive off again for 30km (4 * 100 / 12 ). I'd then fill the tank. That's NORMAL driving. Not towing, not racing, and definitely not trying to park at Kotara Westfield 2 days before Christmas.



That minimises the dilution of the purge liquid, still runs it through the pump several times and you ought to notice the difference fairly quickly. Fill it up as normal and see how it goes.


In those formula, replace the "12" with however many litres per hundred km your car normally delivers.
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