Rear 4 Link

Bloody hell mate!
Job well done

Can I come work where ever you work?

Started to gut the car over the last few weeks in preparation for putting the roll cage in. Most of the dash will go as I want to run the dash spreader bar below the windscreen to maximise visibility.

I was initially going to retain the A/C blower to defrost the windscreen but that idea has gone out the window. Instead I will design my own system to stop it from fogging up

That 2nd dash cluster is insane...and i want it..absolutely love it.

All of the old dash is out now and I have tidied up most of the wiring. So much more room now! It still looks like a birds nest atm though.....



Getting the roll cage in will be the next big job. Hopefully I can get the car into the shop by the end of the month. Until then lots of small jobs to keep me going

Few small jobs done over the long weekend

Fitted the spacers I had machined to the upper rear coilover mounts

Reattached the front remote res' to the coil tower

Ran a line from the alternator to the battery side of the isolator. The car now shuts down almost immediately when you flick the isolator lever. I think CAMS ruling is under 6 seconds

Sold about $500 worth of old parts which will help pay for the roll cage

Pulled the bonnet off the put the bonnet pins in

Got the bonnet pins done over the weekend, had a few issues though..... The pins were not long enough as my bonnet is double skinned so I used some Gal rod and made my own about 30mm longer. Getting them to line up was another issue but got that sorted now.





I'm now trying to sort out a few electrical problems. We seem to be getting 7.6 - 8V at the gauges and 12.6V at the battery when the car is off so we are loosing well over 4V somewhere along the line

Went and did some testing yesterday. The motor seems to rev to about 3000rpm then stops making power after that.... I believe its some sort of fuel cut, possibly the torque limiters. I have never had this problem before though. Bigger injectors may be on the cards soon. On a better note it lights up tires in 2nd going around corners pretty good. Now that all of the gauges are working its good to see the effectiveness of the W2A system. I was getting 26 deg intake air temps with an ambient temp of 17 outside. EGT's were 350 max so I have a feeling we can put a fair bit more fuel in

Well had a chat to my tuner this week and we think we have worked out why I'm running out of fuel. We are running out of fuel in the rail so next up Ill be fitting a lift pump to help the common rail pump out a bit. This coupled with the MAP sensor and boosting the rail pressure to 1800 Bar should get me close to the 200Hp mark

Bloody good mate, keep it up

Been doing my research on different common rail pumps as down the track I may need to upgraded to a higher pressure pump. Currently all Yd25's have the Dense HP3 made in either Hungary or Thailand which is capable of 1800Bar. A Bosch CP3 looks like the best upgrade capable of 2000Bar. Denso don't offer anything above 1800Bar although they do offer a HP4 which is used in light truck. While it doesn't offer any more pressure its triple plunger design can flow 1.5 times the amount of fuel a HP3 does

I ended up reading the entire 134 page Denso service manual, a very interesting read as it covered absolutely everything to do with how a common rail stem works

dilmah said:

Been doing my research on different common rail pumps as down the track I may need to upgraded to a higher pressure pump. Currently all Yd25's have the Dense HP3 made in either Hungary or Thailand which is capable of 1800Bar. A Bosch CP3 looks like the best upgrade capable of 2000Bar. Denso don't offer anything above 1800Bar although they do offer a HP4 which is used in light truck. While it doesn't offer any more pressure its triple plunger design can flow 1.5 times the amount of fuel a HP3 does

I ended up reading the entire 134 page Denso service manual, a very interesting read as it covered absolutely everything to do with how a common rail stem works

Click to expand...

Knowledge = Power! You'r a sick c*nt Dilmah. Keep up the good work.

A common mod the yanks are doing is increasing the stroke on the plunger. Don't think I want to pull my pump apart yet. Im going to block off the pressure relief valve this weekend so hopefully it will stop the rail draining so quickly

Airdog came today so I skipped uni to install the lift pump. Got the pump and bracket mounts and all of the plumbing done. I still need to finish off the tank mods and flush the tank, wiring is also on the list.



On another note the MAP sensor is finally installed. I put it straight into the intake manifold so it reads what the engine is seeing. It draws its power off the MAF sensor as I didn't know where else to find a 5V circuit.

I still need to get the nav off to my mate to do the cage but it will have to wait another week....

Stay tuned for more updates

I'll be very interested to see how that pump goes and what effect it has on your fuel afr's and everything. Ever since Tweake's mentioned them on the lift pump thread they kinda been on my radar. So it pretty much negates the stock filter/primer arrangement, yeah? I wonder if i ripped my primer and filter out and chucked one of those things in that spot it would be able to suck from the tank from that far/high.

You would be better off mounting it under the chassis on the rail somewhere, then you get a heap of room back in the engine bay. Pretty easy install really, just a little time consuming. Id say you would be able to knock it off in a full day provided you didn't need to go an source parts. I replaced all of the plastic push on fittings with Aeroflow ones so that added to the cost a bit. You need to drop the fuel tank to put the -8AN (1/2") suction line in. Wiring is simple, it comes with its own loom you just need constant power, earth and a trigger from the ignition.

Ill post up some more pics later today of the install

Cheers mate. The only reason for wanting to mount it in engine bay is i would have to drop my under tray box to access filters but turns out there isnt enough room in the bay. Id be going 100 series so no fancy suction pipes or dropping tank. Pretty much just place inline on the existing supply line, wire up to a relay like anything else and chuck a return in. Wouldnt **** around with AN fittings on mine cos its just a work ute.

Think i'll just go the 044 route as per tweake's suggestion. A quick price up comes in under 300 clams including genuine 044, aeroflow knock off holley bypass reg, inline filter, various brass fittings, ect. Only thing is the noise, but i'll rubber mount the shit out of it. Also it would be very discrete keeping stock lines and filter in place and better able to hide a small inline filter and pump.

Still very interested to see yours goes with the big new lift pump. Keep up the good work!

Got the wiring done today and the fuel tank flushed and cleaned. All the fittings are done so tomorrow its just put the tank back in and do all the fittings up and it should be ready to go

Put the MAP sensor in over the weekend, should help with fuel delivery under high boost



Airdog is all wired and plumbed up and running although I haven't started the engine yet as I ran out of time

Nav is in getting the cage bent up as we speak. Gave it a good run on the 1/2 hr drive to the workshop to properly test the new tune out. EGT's are looking pretty good so far. Ive only had it to 120 - 130km/h, didn't want to push it too fast on public roads. 550 was the max I got in the exhaust manifold and about 480 in the dump pipes. W2A system is working really well intake air temps at 120km/h are around 40 with an ambient temp of around 20 degrees

Airdog is all installed and running sweet the rails seem to have plenty of fuel now so it has solved that problem. Will post some pics of the cage kit on the weekend

cheers

Dilmah

Car is back form the workshop and so is the roll cage


Picked up some seats too. They are really comfy


I've been cutting the stock seat rails out as they are in the way and then ill get cracking on the main hoop