Hi,
Just posting this out of general interest as I couldn't find any common thread of how to:
I managed to drain my coolant from block and radiator by doing this. I am not a mechanic but I like to tinker, so take this guidance as a possible easy way... Or not! Usual disclaimers, this worked for me.
Sorry I took no photos as I had hassle with block plug, but got it done.
Prep yourself for the job, if you have already started and are looking for help, this may not help.
Make sure you have the right tools:
14mm socket - 6 point socket is thoroughly recommended, 12 point will strip bolt if tight. I also own sockets that are designed to lock onto stripped heads, made by Irwin, don't know what they are called but they are excellent as my bolt was stripped from previous owner and I needed this..
Penetrating Oil. I used WD40 Specialist penetrating oil.
An extension bar of at least 500mm
Trim removal tool, like a little fork (not essential)
Portable light or torch
Jack and axle stands
Catch container, wide open one
If you are short, a step ladder
Locate the drain bolt, It is kind of under the alternator near the block end of the bottom radiator hose. You WILL NOT see it from looking through engine bay. Do it through wheel arch. Turn wheels full lock to the left.
Remove rubber trim at engine bay, use the trim tool or just be careful. The plastic studs pop out but be careful not to tear rubber.
Helps to jack car up slightly, just to raise body slightly but not necessary.
Use torch and look for bolt. IIRC, there is a Nissan Logo on block. Look to front of engine. It is recessed deeply.
When you find it, spray with penetrating oil. Go for a drive and do some stuff in car. When block is hot, repeat.
Leave for 24 hours.
Prep for a few hours and just to be sure, maybe don't need vehicle for tomorrow.
Take some deep breaths and get into it.
1. Undo plastic radiator bung and let that drain and whilst draining, remove airbox lid and the plastic pipe to manifold. (put a clean rag into manifold hole)
2. REMOVE front left wheel. Don't waste time trying to do this with wheel turned, trust me. Support vehicle with axle stands.
3. Remove rubber trim again.
4. I tried using extension bar and breaker bar to reach through past wheel arch and vehicle body but because of length, I need two extn bars and this gave to much flex and was useless. Because you have removed airbox cover, you can now work through engine bay. Use an extension bar that is long enough to work in the space in engine bay, which I think was my 500mm one. (Sorry if that bit is wrong, but I am sure its right). Again, DO NOT use two extension bars due to flex at joint.
5. Reaching through wheel guard, place socket and extension bar onto nut. If you are using a 6 point socket or a stripped socket nut, it will hold. My suggestion is DO NOT use a 12 point socket.
6. If you so desire, place a blanket across top of radiator and front of vehicle grill (to lie on) and lie across and using a normal ratchet, put onto extension bar in a position that you can pull it back towards (anticlockwise). Use step ladder if you are short..
7. Make sure you are on socket properly, now pull back slowly, making sure that socket is well onto bolt the whole time by using one arm to pull back and other to push extension bar toward engine block. DO NOT yank hard just firm force. If you feel it slip or start to round, STOP!! You are going to need the stripped nut sockets.
8. When you feel it slightly move, lube it up again with penetrating oil. Wait 15 - 20 minutes. Continue with point 6 again and it SHOULD start to move and then you are free. Be warned, fluid will pour all over chassis so make sure you have a wide open container.
A couple of precautions. When replacing block bolt, get right in under wheel arch and make sure you line it up. DO NOT try it blindly by feel reaching into engine bay. I dropped my bolt and lost it for 3 hours. Had to pull off bash plate and dick about, losing most of my day. Found it behind alternator bracket after using a piece of mirror, the most obscure spot.
As I lost so much time, I started to rush and don't know if I drained out all of the fluid. Wondering if heater core doesn't drain properly or if vehicle needs to be "nose down" for it to do so. Remember you are slightly up due to wheel off, but I only got about 6.5 litres to go back in. I MAY have an airlock which I will deal with later today, but I do have some odd symptoms.
Vehicle idling for ages with cap off, did not reach operating temp. Is running cool. Took it for a drive and it reached operating temp on gauge (half way), heater is warm but I noticed after drive that thermo may not be opening as I have no apparent circulation AND bottom radiator hose is COLD and top is warm. I have done all the ways I know how to bleed, then ran out of daylight and yet to attack it again this morning.
I notice on this and other general car forums, that others have had this problem with the response varying from "normal" to "cracked heads"... So odd thus far. No overheat, car runs well, in cab heater working, just no apparent flow when looking into radiator whilst car at op temp and cold bottom hose...........??????.......
Anyway, hope this helps someone... Good luck..
Just posting this out of general interest as I couldn't find any common thread of how to:
I managed to drain my coolant from block and radiator by doing this. I am not a mechanic but I like to tinker, so take this guidance as a possible easy way... Or not! Usual disclaimers, this worked for me.
Sorry I took no photos as I had hassle with block plug, but got it done.
Prep yourself for the job, if you have already started and are looking for help, this may not help.
Make sure you have the right tools:
14mm socket - 6 point socket is thoroughly recommended, 12 point will strip bolt if tight. I also own sockets that are designed to lock onto stripped heads, made by Irwin, don't know what they are called but they are excellent as my bolt was stripped from previous owner and I needed this..
Penetrating Oil. I used WD40 Specialist penetrating oil.
An extension bar of at least 500mm
Trim removal tool, like a little fork (not essential)
Portable light or torch
Jack and axle stands
Catch container, wide open one
If you are short, a step ladder
Locate the drain bolt, It is kind of under the alternator near the block end of the bottom radiator hose. You WILL NOT see it from looking through engine bay. Do it through wheel arch. Turn wheels full lock to the left.
Remove rubber trim at engine bay, use the trim tool or just be careful. The plastic studs pop out but be careful not to tear rubber.
Helps to jack car up slightly, just to raise body slightly but not necessary.
Use torch and look for bolt. IIRC, there is a Nissan Logo on block. Look to front of engine. It is recessed deeply.
When you find it, spray with penetrating oil. Go for a drive and do some stuff in car. When block is hot, repeat.
Leave for 24 hours.
Prep for a few hours and just to be sure, maybe don't need vehicle for tomorrow.
Take some deep breaths and get into it.
1. Undo plastic radiator bung and let that drain and whilst draining, remove airbox lid and the plastic pipe to manifold. (put a clean rag into manifold hole)
2. REMOVE front left wheel. Don't waste time trying to do this with wheel turned, trust me. Support vehicle with axle stands.
3. Remove rubber trim again.
4. I tried using extension bar and breaker bar to reach through past wheel arch and vehicle body but because of length, I need two extn bars and this gave to much flex and was useless. Because you have removed airbox cover, you can now work through engine bay. Use an extension bar that is long enough to work in the space in engine bay, which I think was my 500mm one. (Sorry if that bit is wrong, but I am sure its right). Again, DO NOT use two extension bars due to flex at joint.
5. Reaching through wheel guard, place socket and extension bar onto nut. If you are using a 6 point socket or a stripped socket nut, it will hold. My suggestion is DO NOT use a 12 point socket.
6. If you so desire, place a blanket across top of radiator and front of vehicle grill (to lie on) and lie across and using a normal ratchet, put onto extension bar in a position that you can pull it back towards (anticlockwise). Use step ladder if you are short..
7. Make sure you are on socket properly, now pull back slowly, making sure that socket is well onto bolt the whole time by using one arm to pull back and other to push extension bar toward engine block. DO NOT yank hard just firm force. If you feel it slip or start to round, STOP!! You are going to need the stripped nut sockets.
8. When you feel it slightly move, lube it up again with penetrating oil. Wait 15 - 20 minutes. Continue with point 6 again and it SHOULD start to move and then you are free. Be warned, fluid will pour all over chassis so make sure you have a wide open container.
A couple of precautions. When replacing block bolt, get right in under wheel arch and make sure you line it up. DO NOT try it blindly by feel reaching into engine bay. I dropped my bolt and lost it for 3 hours. Had to pull off bash plate and dick about, losing most of my day. Found it behind alternator bracket after using a piece of mirror, the most obscure spot.
As I lost so much time, I started to rush and don't know if I drained out all of the fluid. Wondering if heater core doesn't drain properly or if vehicle needs to be "nose down" for it to do so. Remember you are slightly up due to wheel off, but I only got about 6.5 litres to go back in. I MAY have an airlock which I will deal with later today, but I do have some odd symptoms.
Vehicle idling for ages with cap off, did not reach operating temp. Is running cool. Took it for a drive and it reached operating temp on gauge (half way), heater is warm but I noticed after drive that thermo may not be opening as I have no apparent circulation AND bottom radiator hose is COLD and top is warm. I have done all the ways I know how to bleed, then ran out of daylight and yet to attack it again this morning.
I notice on this and other general car forums, that others have had this problem with the response varying from "normal" to "cracked heads"... So odd thus far. No overheat, car runs well, in cab heater working, just no apparent flow when looking into radiator whilst car at op temp and cold bottom hose...........??????.......
Anyway, hope this helps someone... Good luck..