Absolutely. Permatex Ultra-Blue Sensor-Safe is the best one to use. Apply it to both sides of the plate.
3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod
- Thread starter stubbsy351
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Absolutely. Permatex Ultra-Blue Sensor-Safe is the best one to use. Apply it to both sides of the plate.
fourocker
Member
The point is to stop exhaust gas being fed back into the inlet manifold because when the exhaust gas mixes with the incoming air (which has some oil vapour from pcv) it eventually forms a thick black paste that chokes the air flow going into the motor, lower air flow with the same amount of diesel going in = excessive heat, bad all round.
So it's not actually a performance mod, more of a longevity mod but a little improvement of the turbo spooling is usually noted.
XKyleX
Member
yeah i didn't use gasket maker either….doesnt seem to leak at all….
rastik86
Member
Does anyone know where you could by an EGR blanking plate? What thickness and material to look for?
Cheers
Cheers
It has to withstand some decent temperatures, so it shouldn't ever be thin aluminium. Steel is great, stainless even better, 1mm thick is enough, 2mm is perfect.
Not only do eBay have 'em, but a quick trip to a stainless steel factory asking for scraps usually yields enough material to DIY with ease.
rastik86
Member
Thanks Tony
ebay is the easiest to get one from
rastik86
Member
Just did the mod. Just checking the vac lines remove both from the top egr (black) solenoid, connect T to the top of the green solenoid with the two lines coming from the egr/shutdown butterfly/actuator, bottom of the shutoff (green) solenoid to the T on the swirl (red) solenoid, disconnect the swirl (red) solenoid?
Also, before the mod and even after there is a pffffft/ soft air popping sorta sound coming from the egr/shutoff butterfly on shutdown. Before shutdown it would sort of go "pop pop pffft" as it shutdown at idle now is quiter and not as drawn out. Mechanic said its ok last service, but just wondering am I paranoid is this normal? Do yours' do this on shutdown? I just dont't remember noticing/ didn't take notice of this on other Navs I've been in before I owned one!
Also, before the mod and even after there is a pffffft/ soft air popping sorta sound coming from the egr/shutoff butterfly on shutdown. Before shutdown it would sort of go "pop pop pffft" as it shutdown at idle now is quiter and not as drawn out. Mechanic said its ok last service, but just wondering am I paranoid is this normal? Do yours' do this on shutdown? I just dont't remember noticing/ didn't take notice of this on other Navs I've been in before I owned one!
rastik86
Member
Also anyone compared results between swirl solenoid unplugged and not unplugged? Any noticeable difference?
most people don't notice the shutdown butterfly noise. it can be a case of now your listening for it, you hear it.
with the swirl butterfly, i noticed a slight increase in pull in the very low rpm. bit smoother.
someone posted that they noticed quite a bit of difference when the swirl was disabled. but there engine was also chipped. so it could be that they had the fuel that could use the extra air flow.
with the swirl butterfly, i noticed a slight increase in pull in the very low rpm. bit smoother.
someone posted that they noticed quite a bit of difference when the swirl was disabled. but there engine was also chipped. so it could be that they had the fuel that could use the extra air flow.
rastik86
Member
Thanks tweak'e. I drove around today and decided when I got home to reconnect the swirl. See how it goes tomorrow and compare, maybe drive around a bit then disconnect to get a better idea of the difference.
rastik86
Member
Can definitely notice the difference with the EGR blocked. 1st gear/take off is so much smoother and doesn't have that hesitant/choked up feel. Notice the diffference in 2nd and 3rd when coming to and out of corners and roudabouts, same deal as first with that choked up feel gone. However can't notice that much of a difference between swirl plugged/unplugged, but left it unplugged on tweak'e 's word.
Well after puttin it off for a few weeks (being to shit scared to attempt more like it) I have finally completed this mod. As an absolute, and I mean complete and utter mechanical amateur.. This mod is amazingly easy to do. Took me less than an hour, mind you most of that was checking and re checking my work to make sure it was right. All the photos provided were fantastic and once you dive into it it's really easy to make heads or tails of the diagrams. I purchased a meter of vac hose to be sure I wasn't left short and I used a total of none of it. All you need is there. Just think it out and make cuts carfuly. The result I have to say is minimal. There is a bit more down low and the turbo spools up quicker, mind you I'm fairly easy on the power pedal anyway.
This is a fantastic mod and I urge any novice who may be putting it off to get of your a** and do it. You won't be disappointed with the outcome and the feeling of getting it done.
Thanks to all the guys who have posted how to's on this thread. Made the job easy.
Sammy
This is a fantastic mod and I urge any novice who may be putting it off to get of your a** and do it. You won't be disappointed with the outcome and the feeling of getting it done.
Thanks to all the guys who have posted how to's on this thread. Made the job easy.
Sammy
fourocker
Member
Good to hear, any gains in driveability, turbo response etc are secondary....just a bonus, the real benefit is in stopping the build up of that dreaded choking paste in the inlet manifold and retaining good clean air volume for long term engine health, my egr mod has been in for a long time now and 0 problems.
rastik86
Member
Just an after thought, obviously the egr is no longer choking the engine up with its dirty filthy unwantedness, so am I right in assuming this has contributed to less engine braking and smoother when slowing down/driving slowly (e.g around a carpark)?
Excuse me for not being mechanically genius
Excuse me for not being mechanically genius
I'm not sure that changing the EGR would impact the engine braking, because when you're engine braking you're generally off the gas, and when throttle = 0, the EGR is turned off anyway. When driving slowly you're using low-to-mid-range throttle and EGR is definitely active, so the block will be contributing to that.
rastik86
Member
I keep flogging this thread, for this I apologise, but...
Is there any merit in blocking both points of the EGR?
I have blocked the point everyone and his dog does, at the intake, just wondering if anyone then went on to block the second point that is hard to get at and if it will be better to do both.
If you do block the lower point does the gasket stay on the engine side of the blanking plate?
Is there any merit in blocking both points of the EGR?
I have blocked the point everyone and his dog does, at the intake, just wondering if anyone then went on to block the second point that is hard to get at and if it will be better to do both.
If you do block the lower point does the gasket stay on the engine side of the blanking plate?
If you block the exhaust side, there's no chance of having exhaust gas leak out when the EGR tube cracks (which has happened a couple of times, reported here). Doesn't mean you should block yours right away - it's a bit like having your nuts ripped off because 2 out of a hundred of your ancestors had testicular cancer.
Doesn't matter where the gasket goes. I didn't even put my gasket back in, it's in my glove box. I used Permatex Ultra Blue Gasket Cement to seal the joint. Not a single problem with mine in 10s of thousands of km.
Doesn't matter where the gasket goes. I didn't even put my gasket back in, it's in my glove box. I used Permatex Ultra Blue Gasket Cement to seal the joint. Not a single problem with mine in 10s of thousands of km.
rastik86
Member
I literally cried I laughed so hard reading this. Thank you OT for the advice and brightening my evening.
