Blown turbo!!

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I take it it was the compressor wheel not the turbine wheel that failed? Compressor is the air intake side

It would be really good to get to the bottom of this. While it is rare it seems to have happend a to a few D22 ZD30 owners.

Sman, the Nissan dealer may be reluctant to hand over any info. But can you ask how it failed? Does the front compressor nut come off? Bearing failure cause the compressor wheel to make contact with the housing and shatter? Were the turbo bearings coked? And yes as Tweak mentioned were the injector lines leaking?

Turbo failure I can struggle to deal with but an engine failure due digesting a chunk of turbo I cannot afford :(
 
It would be the compressor, but the turbine bearings would be the ones to fail first if there's a lack of oil supply you'd think - it's the hot side, after all.

The tolerances between compressor and housing are naturally very small, it wouldn't take a lot for the blades to contact the housing. At the speeds these things spin at, they'd self-destruct very quickly. You can buy a "Turbo Speed Gauge" for Garrett turbos that measures the turbine rpm from 0 to 180,000rpm. Ouch.

I'd actually expect little over 80-100K rpm from stock turbos, but technology changes so who knows! Still, at 80,000rpm a slight deviation would result in a vibration which would shatter the compressor on contact with the housing.

I'm very interested in the actual cause too (who among us wouldn't be?) - so that I can pay attention to that area, although my engine is protected by the intercooler, I don't want things to go south when I need to rely on them (eg I've taken my family to the outback).
 
I'm no expert on the D40s but I think you guys are right in the turbo deaprtment. For a start at least your turbo is water cooled.
 
They may be watercooled,
but if you have no oil flow at the bearings, its all over.:suicide:

They should put in a pressure/flow sensor at the oil feed line pre the turbo as oil flow to the turbo is so critical.
 
They should put in a pressure/flow sensor at the oil feed line pre the turbo as oil flow to the turbo is so critical.

With all the other nifty smarts these things have, it's a wonder that something so important hasn't already been put in without us knowing about it. Might take a squiz at the manual when I get 5.
 
... and the answer is "No sensors apparent".

There's nothing in the turbocharger section. They show engine oil and water lines, with single-use gaskets and bolts and even have a section on "what do do if you find broken bits of blades in the turbo".

But nothing is in there about oil pressure/flow sensors. The lines don't look very big - but I'm sure an enterprising engineer could whack something into the line to measure flow, and put a thermocouple on the outside (then surround it with an insulator so most of its reading comes from the pipe).

If they put that in the 2010 model, I wonder if we can't snaffle those bits? Our ECU might not have the commands to manage it though - and I hate to think what the cost of a new ECU is.
 
dont just put a new turbo on.... Make sure every little thing gets checked.
Nissan Put a new turbo on mine and less then 24 hours later the new one went and took the motor with it.
 
How much are we talking for an intercooler for a d22? Mine is a 2005 and has the same k's on the clock. Hearing this bad news hits home. Im not on this forum much but when i am this always seems to pop up. All the best for your repairs.
 
I have a 2004 Navara ZD30 diesel and at 140000 the turbo decided to give up the ghost. I've since heard rumours that the Nissan Navara turbo is prone to self-destructing. Is that correct? The more I talk to people the more I hear about Navara turbos crapping out. $2800.00 later (with a new primary battery) and I'm nervous about giving it a bit of stick.
 
Depends how they have been treated.

Mine has done almost 200,000km's and my turbo has barely any play. But mine has had a turbo timer fitted since about 5000km's.

Dave.
 
as dave said.

most of the problem is simply not allowing it to cool down before switching it off. these are not water cooled so they need a cool down period before turning off.
people forget that going up that moderate slope drive way is enough to warrant cool down time.

what can make it worse is if the cat is getting sooted up (especially if you have poor fuel), lack of oil changes and dirty air filter (high pre turbo vacuum).
also having loads of oil from the breather hitting the vanes won't help much either.
 
From a mechanic very common problem due to lack of oil changes and allowing turbo to cool and tiny pee shooter exhaust .Has happened to me any many others i know.The best fix is what i did i replaced the crap hitachi turbo which is a bush type and only oil cooled with a garrett ball bearing oil/water and full 3inch exhaust and the adition of turbo timer.Wasn't as easy as just swapping turbos had my manifold cut and shut and a different flange to suit put on as well as havimng to put coolant lines on as well.Gained 25kw and nearly 150nm.

czeslaw
 
My d22 turbo just now let go...140,000 ks,regular oil changes but no cool down period from new(2003)..I was just going to take it off and order another one but after reading through this thread I don't know if thats a good idea....Any thoughts???

Cheers...Sparra
 
Thanks for the reply...I was changing from 1st to 2nd with a trailer on the back so wasn't revving that hard,maybe 2500-3000....Anyway the turbo is off now and the front fan looking thing is shot to pieces and there was a slither of metal sitting in the rubber sleeve on top of the motor...Hopefully thats all that got in there but I'm not too confident that that was the only bit...I have a diesel fella coming around tomorrow to have a squiz and and I'll go from there...

Cheers...Sparra
 

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