Clarky...
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joshman
Member
Al said:
Yeah done that, it's a mess, too much bass. Seven nation army works pretty good.
I'm at Zordo's at the moment getting body lift and full suspension overhaul, these are the rear springs from the drivers side. Pretty gnarly! Obviously overloaded for too long and permanently kinked the helper leaf (and the rest too)
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RustyNav09
Member
They look like my new efs comfort springs already. Must ring zordo and work out what to do. I have to upgrade to hd kit soon once the draws go in. Thanks for reminding me to contact john
How's the new stuff sit?
Rusty
kus89
Member
thats a different lookin sort of a sub mate but looks like it fits sweet i have to have my bass for turned down to 10, 15 is max but its 2 bassy just rattles everything in the cab im running full alpine setup be sure to write down any settings they have put in for you as i found out if you disconnect the battery you lose all settings and it takes awhile to try and get it tuned as good as it was from install
joshman
Member
Ok, here's a (terrible) shot of the truck after the lift. I'll take a better one once i've got some time up my sleeve. And yes, that is a stubbie sitting on top of the front wheel (265/75/16), that's the kind of clearance we're talking about now.
2" body, 2" suspension. The shockies are Rancho RS9000XL, front torsion bars are ironman/dobinson, rear leaves are EFS H/D with an extra leaf for added support.
I also got a Rancho steering damper installed at the same time.
I can't give ZORDO enough praise for the massive effort he put in to get the entire suspension and body lift installed in a single day. A huge effort by a top bloke.
Now the verdict. Amazing. The new kit sh*ts all over the old OME kit that we pulled out. The ride is smoother, the body roll is heaps less (despite being taller) and I've got a lot less pitching under heavy braking. And the things simply glides up and over traffic islands.
All in all, pretty damn good.
2" body, 2" suspension. The shockies are Rancho RS9000XL, front torsion bars are ironman/dobinson, rear leaves are EFS H/D with an extra leaf for added support.
I also got a Rancho steering damper installed at the same time.
I can't give ZORDO enough praise for the massive effort he put in to get the entire suspension and body lift installed in a single day. A huge effort by a top bloke.
Now the verdict. Amazing. The new kit sh*ts all over the old OME kit that we pulled out. The ride is smoother, the body roll is heaps less (despite being taller) and I've got a lot less pitching under heavy braking. And the things simply glides up and over traffic islands.
All in all, pretty damn good.
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RustyNav09
Member
Looking sick mate. now for a question or six. the rear springs are hd(5leaf)+1extra load leaf so making it a 6leaf pack?
Hmmm I need to work out the body lift and stuff soon. got 7months to get the car sorted for cape trip. roof racks should be going on soon yay.
any hints on what I should do next etc. you seem to getting a nice rig coming along.
Hmmm I need to work out the body lift and stuff soon. got 7months to get the car sorted for cape trip. roof racks should be going on soon yay.
any hints on what I should do next etc. you seem to getting a nice rig coming along.
raywise
Member
Looks tops Josh.
How did John go with putting in the body lift, as quick as he does the susp installations, like a blur,
How did John go with putting in the body lift, as quick as he does the susp installations, like a blur,
Nocturnal Animal
Member
Enjoyed reading the build up. You've done a fantastic job and thought of everything. Good onya bloke.
joshman
Member
HOLY SH*T!!!
Just installed the ChipIT chip, and the nav absolutely flies. It's simply unreal, totally different car to drive, more pickup than the vg33e I reckon.
The best part is, it arrived with the tune set at 4 out of 7 (jumper selectable), and I haven't changed it, so there's more room for improvement! As soon as I have an intercooler (or at least something to catch turbo bits) I'll be upping the boost to around 19/20psi.
Next on the list is to get the body lift certified by the TMR, then it'll be getting the UCA's and lower control arm bushes swapped out, as well as getting the draglink and tie rods upgraded.
Then intercooler, shelving in the tray.
Need to sort out a 60L water storage tank and a long ranger fuel tank.
Booyah! This touring machine is on the warpath.
Just installed the ChipIT chip, and the nav absolutely flies. It's simply unreal, totally different car to drive, more pickup than the vg33e I reckon.
The best part is, it arrived with the tune set at 4 out of 7 (jumper selectable), and I haven't changed it, so there's more room for improvement! As soon as I have an intercooler (or at least something to catch turbo bits) I'll be upping the boost to around 19/20psi.
Next on the list is to get the body lift certified by the TMR, then it'll be getting the UCA's and lower control arm bushes swapped out, as well as getting the draglink and tie rods upgraded.
Then intercooler, shelving in the tray.
Need to sort out a 60L water storage tank and a long ranger fuel tank.
Booyah! This touring machine is on the warpath.
joshman
Member
ljacko78 said:
For sure Luke. I'm living in Gladstone now, so we should organise a krombit camping trip or something.
Or upto byfield.
joshman
Member
Sounds good, I should have the next few weekend free, so I'll be ready. The lokka should go in this weekend, so I'll be well set for some off road action soon.
joshman
Member
ok, here's some pics of the body lift. first is an overall pic.
second is the front wheel with a standard size stubby cooler on it, and the third is the back wheel with a standard sized stubby cooler on it.
second is the front wheel with a standard size stubby cooler on it, and the third is the back wheel with a standard sized stubby cooler on it.
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joshman
Member
Ok, time for an update!
I took the truck in for the body lift inspection today, and it passed everything except the rear brake test. Hand brake and front brakes work fine. I'm suspecting some air in the line at the rear, and I'm gonna bleed and flush the lines tomorrow arvo if I can. (this ties in later in the story)
For a while now I've know that the front UCA bushes have been pretty rooted (see attached pic for example) so I decided to take a bit of a gamble, bite the bullet and install my pretty blue SnakeRacing UCA's. The first step was to paint them black so they dont stand like dogs balls. Once I had the old arms out, you could definitely see that the bushes were rooted, the rear side of ALL the bushes on both arms were completely worn away, which would be consistent with the rear brakes not doing their part in bring my truck to a screeching halt when I punch the "oh sh*t" pedal, which mean that I definitely need to get the brakes looked at.
First thing I did was paint them black so they don't stand out like dogs balls. Then while they were hanging to dry, I prepped the car (drove it into the garage), checked the shop manual for torque values of link bolts and castle nut, and had a drink of water (hydration is important you know!) I chocked the back wheels, jacked the side of the car up and put a stand under the chassis near the front, it was high enough so I could get wheel off, but not before checking my wheel bearings. I then used the jack to jack up the lower control arm. THIS IS IMPORTANT because you need to get the stock ball joint to be sitting even so you can get the separator in properly.
Drat, the preload needed adjusting! So half an hour later I have the bearings tightened. The first UCA took me about 2 hours to do; I didn't really know what I was doing, or how to properly go about it, so I was learning. The second UCA took me about an hour from jacking it up and doing the change, to taking the car off the jack. I won't go into too much detail about how I went about doing it. But I'll tell you what I learnt from the experience!
First things first, BUY 2 BALL JOINT SEPARATORS! I did, and I'm so glad because I broke the first one while doing the second ball joint. Oh yeah, when the ball joints do finally pop out... HOLY CRAP!
Mark the location/setting of your alignment bolts of the UCA. This helps immensely to getting your vehicle driveable after the works, that being said, book an alignment BEFORE you hangs your UCA's and do the swap just before the appointment.
GREASE EVERYTHING! Slap some grease onto everything you put in, especially the bushes and it's that move! Do this BEFORE you assemble the UCA to put it in. And obviously pump the nipples full of grease after you install the arms.
That's about all really. I need to grind a slot into the screws for the locking ring of the wheel bearing preload nuts, one of them is completely burred out, so I can't tighten my preload on the passenger side!
I only gained about 25mm of down travel with the new UCA's, which out me at 660mm from centre of hub to guard at full down travel. And i sit at 580mm on flat ground.
I'll post some photos tomorrow, it's well past my bed time and I'm completely shagged!
I took the truck in for the body lift inspection today, and it passed everything except the rear brake test. Hand brake and front brakes work fine. I'm suspecting some air in the line at the rear, and I'm gonna bleed and flush the lines tomorrow arvo if I can. (this ties in later in the story)
For a while now I've know that the front UCA bushes have been pretty rooted (see attached pic for example) so I decided to take a bit of a gamble, bite the bullet and install my pretty blue SnakeRacing UCA's. The first step was to paint them black so they dont stand like dogs balls. Once I had the old arms out, you could definitely see that the bushes were rooted, the rear side of ALL the bushes on both arms were completely worn away, which would be consistent with the rear brakes not doing their part in bring my truck to a screeching halt when I punch the "oh sh*t" pedal, which mean that I definitely need to get the brakes looked at.
First thing I did was paint them black so they don't stand out like dogs balls. Then while they were hanging to dry, I prepped the car (drove it into the garage), checked the shop manual for torque values of link bolts and castle nut, and had a drink of water (hydration is important you know!) I chocked the back wheels, jacked the side of the car up and put a stand under the chassis near the front, it was high enough so I could get wheel off, but not before checking my wheel bearings. I then used the jack to jack up the lower control arm. THIS IS IMPORTANT because you need to get the stock ball joint to be sitting even so you can get the separator in properly.
Drat, the preload needed adjusting! So half an hour later I have the bearings tightened. The first UCA took me about 2 hours to do; I didn't really know what I was doing, or how to properly go about it, so I was learning. The second UCA took me about an hour from jacking it up and doing the change, to taking the car off the jack. I won't go into too much detail about how I went about doing it. But I'll tell you what I learnt from the experience!
First things first, BUY 2 BALL JOINT SEPARATORS! I did, and I'm so glad because I broke the first one while doing the second ball joint. Oh yeah, when the ball joints do finally pop out... HOLY CRAP!
Mark the location/setting of your alignment bolts of the UCA. This helps immensely to getting your vehicle driveable after the works, that being said, book an alignment BEFORE you hangs your UCA's and do the swap just before the appointment.
GREASE EVERYTHING! Slap some grease onto everything you put in, especially the bushes and it's that move! Do this BEFORE you assemble the UCA to put it in. And obviously pump the nipples full of grease after you install the arms.
That's about all really. I need to grind a slot into the screws for the locking ring of the wheel bearing preload nuts, one of them is completely burred out, so I can't tighten my preload on the passenger side!
I only gained about 25mm of down travel with the new UCA's, which out me at 660mm from centre of hub to guard at full down travel. And i sit at 580mm on flat ground.
I'll post some photos tomorrow, it's well past my bed time and I'm completely shagged!
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joshman
Member
joshman
Member
calcal said:
Hey mate. I painted them before input them in. I taped over the bushes, hung them up and sprayed them down with some wax and grease remover, then two coats of primer, then 3 coats of matt black engine enamel.
Like I said, didn't want them sticking out like dogs balls. If I get extended shackles down the track I'm gonna get them properly powdercoated black
RustyNav09
Member
Joshman just after an update on the leaf springs mixed with the rancho shocks. Would you say that tough dog may be a better mix? Zordo is soon to do mine
