D22 3.0l potential Turbo failure

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Greg64

Member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Newcastle
Hi, I found this forum while investigating common Turbo leaks etc.

I have just had my D22 3.0L in for a 150 000k service. MY mechanic found Aluminium in the oil filter, and he suspects it might be from the Turbo Bearings. The turbo has leaked oil for a far while now... since about 80 00k.

So I was just wondering if anyone has any experience changing out the Turbo and how much it cost them... Can you use after market parts, or do you have to use Nissan Parts etc.

The mechanic also told me the 3.0L also has a reputation of Cracking Heads around the 150 000k mark. Is that true/correct?
 
Forefront industries on here or eBay. Aftermarket billet turbos. Forget Nissan stock turbos. Around $800.
 
Hi, I found this forum while investigating common Turbo leaks etc.

I have just had my D22 3.0L in for a 150 000k service. MY mechanic found Aluminium in the oil filter, and he suspects it might be from the Turbo Bearings. The turbo has leaked oil for a far while now... since about 80 00k.
turbo bearings are normally brass. simply feel how much play there is in the turbo shaft.
the oil leak typically comes from the breather and unfortunately rather common but it doesn't mean engine is faulty.
when the turbo is faulty they leak oil into the intake or exhaust. you do not see the oil leak.

The mechanic also told me the 3.0L also has a reputation of Cracking Heads around the 150 000k mark. Is that true/correct?

while the zd30 is nickanamed the grenade for a reason, the navara is generally ok. they generally blow pistons rather than just crack the head.
however problems with injectors, intake of engine oil, ring failure, etc all can cause heads to crack.

the alloy is more likely to come from crank or balance shaft bearings, unless the turbo is missing part of a fin.
 
The mechanic also told me the 3.0L also has a reputation of Cracking Heads around the 150 000k mark. Is that true/correct?

No, not true. Some blokes on here have had some issues but not enough to say they have a reputation - your mechanic is getting confused with the ZD30 in the patrol (circa 2001) which had its fair share of problems. Why is he talking cracked head - does he have a reason?

Welcome aboard BTW!
 
No, not true. Some blokes on here have had some issues but not enough to say they have a reputation - your mechanic is getting confused with the ZD30 in the patrol (circa 2001) which had its fair share of problems. Why is he talking cracked head - does he have a reason?

Welcome aboard BTW!

Thanks,

He recently just fixed a D22 with a cracked head, it had 158 00k on it.

But.... he could be "getting confused with the ZD30"

He is actually a diesel fitter, worked in the mines for years. He admittedly doesn't have a lot of Nissan Experience. A very trust worthy bloke, he is telling so that if I am thinking of trading it, now might be a good time....
 
Last edited:
Turbo.jpg

So I took the cover of the Turbo, it has about 4 thou" or 0.1mm play between shaft and bushes. The vanes also look a little worn.
 
When there not running and there's no oil pressure they have a small amount of play, yours seems normal. Can't comment on the wear as the pic isn't big enough.
 
I must be getting old, this is the first time I've seen this thread. Living up to the name!

Aluminium in the oil won't be from the turbo bearings, but could be from pistons. It's unlikely that any wear in the impeller would make its way into the sump, aluminium shavings (more like dust!) from an impeller rubbing would be taken into the intake and expelled through the exhaust if it didn't melt in somewhere like the cylinder head or get caught in the muck inside the intake manifold.

Oil from the turbo could just be from blow-by. If blow-by is really bad (piston/bore wear or scarring, ring wear) then you could see larger amounts of oil in the intake. A compression test is in order, to see what kind of compression you're getting. At 350rpm of cranking speed, expect at a minimum 131psi, you want to see around 173psi, but no more than 14psi variation from highest to lowest cylinder.

If you've got play and damage inside the turbo then it's definitely asking to be replaced, and Forefront Industries is a good place to start looking. Also consider an intercooler if yours doesn't have one.
 
I must be getting old, this is the first time I've seen this thread. Living up to the name!

Aluminium in the oil won't be from the turbo bearings, but could be from pistons. It's unlikely that any wear in the impeller would make its way into the sump, aluminium shavings (more like dust!) from an impeller rubbing would be taken into the intake and expelled through the exhaust if it didn't melt in somewhere like the cylinder head or get caught in the muck inside the intake manifold.

Oil from the turbo could just be from blow-by. If blow-by is really bad (piston/bore wear or scarring, ring wear) then you could see larger amounts of oil in the intake. A compression test is in order, to see what kind of compression you're getting. At 350rpm of cranking speed, expect at a minimum 131psi, you want to see around 173psi, but no more than 14psi variation from highest to lowest cylinder.

If you've got play and damage inside the turbo then it's definitely asking to be replaced, and Forefront Industries is a good place to start looking. Also consider an intercooler if yours doesn't have one.

Yes I am looking at the Billet turbo from forefront. Not sure if I have an intercooler, what does it do?

Thanks, I will get compression test done. When I took off the turbo's front plate there was probably less than about 1/4 of a teaspoon of oil sitting there, in front of the impeller.
 
Yes I am looking at the Billet turbo from forefront. Not sure if I have an intercooler, what does it do?

Thanks, I will get compression test done. When I took off the turbo's front plate there was probably less than about 1/4 of a teaspoon of oil sitting there, in front of the impeller.

An intercooler (more correctly in this case called an "aftercooler" but we'll use the common name) tries to cool down the temperature of the compressed air coming out of the turbocharger. When you pressurise a gas, the gas heats up - so the air coming into the turbocharger might be at 30C, but it's going to be over 200C as it comes out. That's not because of the nearby hot exhaust - it's because of the pressure the gas is under.

This hot air can be cooled before entering the engine. Cooler air is more dense (hot air rises for a reason) so by cooling it after its been compressed, you're squeezing more air into the combustion chamber = more power. It's not a huge gain, but it's there and it helps lower combustion temps as well, which is important to engine longevity.

Intercoolers are obvious with the bonnet up. The outlet of the silver side of the turbocharger will have a large rubber hose which leads along either fairly directly to the intake manifold on the other side of the engine (meaning there's no intercooler installed) or it leads down to something that looks like a radiator without a cap. That's the intercooler. Some cars have top mount intercoolers (TMICs) - they do the same thing, but perhaps not quite as efficiently as a front mount intercooler (FMIC).

That oil in the front of the impeller is nothing to worry about. You'll discover a small (maybe 25mm diameter) hose plumbed into the air intake just in front of the turbocharger. The other end of this hose leads to the top of the engine at the rear (usually). It's called PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation. That's where your oil is coming from, and catch cans can remove MOST of that oil from the PCV line.

Why is the PCV directed there? Emission control laws. The gas that comes out is a mixture of pure exhaust gas and oil vapour. It's there because when the fuel in each combustion chamber ignites, most of the expanding gas inside the chamber pushes the piston down, but a little seeps past the piston rings and enters the crankcase. That's called blow-by, and it happens more at higher rpm and even more when the engine is labouring.

Because that's pure combustion gas, it's hot, and as a result heats the sump oil up a little - causing it to vaporise (in tiny amounts, don't worry). This is passed up and out and into the air intake where the exhaust and oil mix is introduced to the combustion chamber where the gas and oil are burned properly and sent out the exhaust. It does result in fewer emissions, partly because you're not spraying the oil everywhere, and also because the exhaust gas dampens the combustion process (which is further dampened by the EGR, read about that elsewhere). It enters before the turbocharger so that the turbo can help suck the fumes out, instead of pumping fresh air into the crankcase.

So the oil you're seeing is not a worry.

If you don't have an intercooler, consider one as insurance. Rebuilding a diesel engine is an expensive exercise. Even if you opt for an $80 intercooler from an XR6T Falcon, it'll still catch the bits of busted impeller that could do damage to your engine.
 
Leave your turbo if it spins freely and does not contact the housing at all. It will have some radial runout (up and down/side to side) it should not thrust backwards or forwards enough to contact the housing.

Aluminum in your oil filter and your mechanic says turbo???? get a new mechanic!!

check oil pressure.. not just by the light on the dash, but with a gauge, know the pressure. If its on the lower end, there may be a thrust issue inside, where oil pressure would have lubricated a small clearance, reducing end float or play.... with less pressure its possible that you may have some rubbing going on..

.02c
 
An intercooler (more correctly in this case called an "aftercooler" but we'll use the common name) tries to cool down the temperature of the compressed air coming out of the turbocharger. When you pressurise a gas, the gas heats up - so the air coming into the turbocharger might be at 30C, but it's going to be over 200C as it comes out. That's not because of the nearby hot exhaust - it's because of the pressure the gas is under.

This hot air can be cooled before entering the engine. Cooler air is more dense (hot air rises for a reason) so by cooling it after its been compressed, you're squeezing more air into the combustion chamber = more power. It's not a huge gain, but it's there and it helps lower combustion temps as well, which is important to engine longevity.

Intercoolers are obvious with the bonnet up. The outlet of the silver side of the turbocharger will have a large rubber hose which leads along either fairly directly to the intake manifold on the other side of the engine (meaning there's no intercooler installed) or it leads down to something that looks like a radiator without a cap. That's the intercooler. Some cars have top mount intercoolers (TMICs) - they do the same thing, but perhaps not quite as efficiently as a front mount intercooler (FMIC).

That oil in the front of the impeller is nothing to worry about. You'll discover a small (maybe 25mm diameter) hose plumbed into the air intake just in front of the turbocharger. The other end of this hose leads to the top of the engine at the rear (usually). It's called PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation. That's where your oil is coming from, and catch cans can remove MOST of that oil from the PCV line.

Why is the PCV directed there? Emission control laws. The gas that comes out is a mixture of pure exhaust gas and oil vapour. It's there because when the fuel in each combustion chamber ignites, most of the expanding gas inside the chamber pushes the piston down, but a little seeps past the piston rings and enters the crankcase. That's called blow-by, and it happens more at higher rpm and even more when the engine is labouring.

Because that's pure combustion gas, it's hot, and as a result heats the sump oil up a little - causing it to vaporise (in tiny amounts, don't worry). This is passed up and out and into the air intake where the exhaust and oil mix is introduced to the combustion chamber where the gas and oil are burned properly and sent out the exhaust. It does result in fewer emissions, partly because you're not spraying the oil everywhere, and also because the exhaust gas dampens the combustion process (which is further dampened by the EGR, read about that elsewhere). It enters before the turbocharger so that the turbo can help suck the fumes out, instead of pumping fresh air into the crankcase.

So the oil you're seeing is not a worry.

If you don't have an intercooler, consider one as insurance. Rebuilding a diesel engine is an expensive exercise. Even if you opt for an $80 intercooler from an XR6T Falcon, it'll still catch the bits of busted impeller that could do damage to your engine.

Thanks Tony, for the detailed explanation.

An intercooler... ok might be a good idea and offer some insurance.... you got me thinking, I could save some money for now.
 
Leave your turbo if it spins freely and does not contact the housing at all. It will have some radial runout (up and down/side to side) it should not thrust backwards or forwards enough to contact the housing.

Aluminum in your oil filter and your mechanic says turbo???? get a new mechanic!!

check oil pressure.. not just by the light on the dash, but with a gauge, know the pressure. If its on the lower end, there may be a thrust issue inside, where oil pressure would have lubricated a small clearance, reducing end float or play.... with less pressure its possible that you may have some rubbing going on..

.02c

It does spin ok, and the radial run out I reckon (without having a dial indicator) is only about 0.1mm, must be about 1mm clearance between impeller and housing.

Yeah, maybe the mechanic hasn't thought it through properly.
 
Last edited:
It does spin ok, and the radial run out I reckon (without having a dial indicator) is only about 0.1mm, must be about 1mm clearance between impeller and housing.

Sounds like theres nothing wrong with it.
When I first bought mine I took turbo off and took it to a very reputable specialist as I was concerned about the minimal movement. They said put it back on it will probably go for another 100k kms.
I put an intercooler on for safety as a failure can be very expensive.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top