D22 YD25 Starting problem hot or cold. Help!

[KRAYSLiCK]

Hello people

Vehicle D22 RWD 4X2 (Japan)
Engine YD25 2.5L NON (CRDi) Conventional

I got a starting issue if when I heat, tumble to start it just tumbles on and on........ and so on... (Bad if i stall during traffic).... :/...

Funny thing is!!!! If i depress the Accel pedal (Electronic) not cable it kicks right up... Why cant i start the vehicle normal? Im am soo lost again in how to solve the starting problem.. :/... Is it a fuel problem at start up?? MY NPS works fine. I did the test.

List if things i did:
Blocked egr
fuel filter changed along with air filter and oil.
injector rail return line hose changed along with other suspected rubber hoses
intercooler cleaned out
New glow plugs
serviced starter
new battery
Number 4 injector line was leaking FIXED THAT! no more leak..
My crank sensor was slack.. tightened it snug
Sprayed out all electrical connections from oil and dust etc..

 

[Rumpig]

Hello people

Vehicle D22 RWD 4X2 (Japan)
Engine YD25 2.5L NON (CRDi) Conventional

I got a starting issue if when I heat, tumble to start it just tumbles on and on........ and so on... (Bad if i stall during traffic).... :/...

Funny thing is!!!! If i depress the Accel pedal (Electronic) not cable it kicks right up... Why cant i start the vehicle normal? Im am soo lost again in how to solve the starting problem.. :/... Is it a fuel problem at start up?? MY NPS works fine. I did the test.

List if things i did:
Blocked egr
fuel filter changed along with air filter and oil.
injector rail return line hose changed along with other suspected rubber hoses
intercooler cleaned out
New glow plugs
serviced starter
new battery
Number 4 injector line was leaking FIXED THAT! no more leak..
My crank sensor was slack.. tightened it snug
Sprayed out all electrical connections from oil and dust etc..

The throttle position sensor on the accelerator pedal are known to fail. Try checking the voltages, usually around 0.5 at idle ad 4.0 volt at wide open.

 

[Old.Tony]

Plus, double-check that fuel filter. If it's drawing air in (aftermarket filters are known for this in the D40 range) you'll have similar problems too, but that TPS is a likely candidate.

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

The throttle position sensor on the accelerator pedal are known to fail. Try checking the voltages, usually around 0.5 at idle ad 4.0 volt at wide open.

hey thanks for the reply. um got a pin out on how to check for voltage at the pins?

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

Plus, double-check that fuel filter. If it's drawing air in (aftermarket filters are known for this in the D40 range) you'll have similar problems too, but that TPS is a likely candidate.

I will get a piece of clear hose and check for air.. also when the vehicle is started i was thinking of cracking the Diesel lines. and let it bleed for a few secs...

 

[Rumpig]

hey thanks for the reply. um got a pin out on how to check for voltage at the pins?

We never had the non crd yd25 here so I haven't got the diagrams for it but there's only a couple of wires of the plug on the pedal. On my zd30 it is the white wire on the brown plug.

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

We never had the non crd yd25 here so I haven't got the diagrams for it but there's only a couple of wires of the plug on the pedal. On my zd30 it is the white wire on the brown plug.

Here is a photo of my accel connector. http://www.navara.asia/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=3769&title=yd25-accel-pedald22&cat=502

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

Ok so this morning I started the vehicle and well once I got I goin I cracked all of the diesil lines one by one and still.I have the starting problem. IF I pump the primer it gets hard 1 min after it gets soft...

 

[bods]

Have you tried clear hose from the filter housing to the injector pump? It could be a failing diaphragm inside the primer on the filter housing, or people have had the actual housing crack before, letting air in.

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

U will try that bro thanks for the info will give you some feed back a bit later.. but I doubt that will be the problem.. but it worth a try.. if its cracked wont it leak diesil?

 

[bods]

Not necessarily. The ones that I've seen on here that have had that problem haven't leaked any fuel out.

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

Have you tried clear hose from the filter housing to the injector pump? It could be a failing diaphragm inside the primer on the filter housing, or people have had the actual housing crack before, letting air in.

Ok finished tried the clear hose.. no sign of bubbles tho.. could a crank sensor be suspect ? :/

 

[Old.Tony]

If the primer is getting soft very quickly, there's a leak somewhere. Typical (excellent condition) primer is 3 pumps and she's firm. Up to 5 and you should still be ok. 6 pumps or more and there's a problem somewhere in the line. Since it's the suction side (the pump is on the engine itself, as it needs the power of the engine to drive it) you won't see a leak anywhere along that line unless it's really bad.

CAS can suffer if it gets metal particles on it, it interferes with the signal. Had one report of someone's cables to the CAS being dodgy, a couple of adjustment issues (the CAS was loose) and the rest were particles. Overall the CAS isn't usually a problem but don't exclude it from your checks just because it's usually good - if I've learned anything on this forum, it's that the unusual happens more than you'd expect!

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

If the primer is getting soft very quickly, there's a leak somewhere. Typical (excellent condition) primer is 3 pumps and she's firm. Up to 5 and you should still be ok. 6 pumps or more and there's a problem somewhere in the line. Since it's the suction side (the pump is on the engine itself, as it needs the power of the engine to drive it) you won't see a leak anywhere along that line unless it's really bad.

CAS can suffer if it gets metal particles on it, it interferes with the signal. Had one report of someone's cables to the CAS being dodgy, a couple of adjustment issues (the CAS was loose) and the rest were particles. Overall the CAS isn't usually a problem but don't exclude it from your checks just because it's usually good - if I've learned anything on this forum, it's that the unusual happens more than you'd expect!

You guys are soo much of help Hats off to you experts..!!
Just last week I was under the truck fixing back the clutch fork boot.. and just double checking wireing.. and the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR was loose so I suspected tjat was all my power loss problems under load and my starting issue.. after bolting it snug the same starting issue is there.. .. Tomorrow if the truck is home ill unbolt and clean the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

When the engine is started.. it idles GREAT with AC on and off revs good!!

 

[KRAYSLiCK]

So this morning I unjacked my netural switch hooked it up to my continueity meter with beep on. And shoved the leaver to the left.... It did not give me a solid beep but a crackle skipping beep .. faulty switch. With it unplugged same thing somtimes but starting responce is abit better. Kinda! Not too sure as yet.

BUT with in 5ft of rolling I can pop start the engine on 2nd not rolling fast.... im off to recheck the glow plugs later but im wondering if my brushes in the starer got worn down so fast..?