D40 Intercooler kit - DIY

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Ok thought I should finally update this for anyone that is interested in making they're own FMIC setup. It was actually a lot easier than I thought which is kind of what took me so long to get it finished.

I had already knocked up the turbo to IC hard pipe, that was pretty straight forward. I still had to remove all existing factory piping and intercooler and fab new piping, supports and mount new IC.

Used my remaining 2 1/2" elbows and pipe to make up the rest, was very easy actually. Had very little room to play with and am surprised I managed to get the bends and cuts bang on first try.

Tigged all the pipework up and mounted the new intercooler core. Opted to mount it with the inlets up the top instead of down the bottom. This decreased the amount of pipework required to complete the setup.

My verdict: After installing the kit I took it for a test drive...My initial thoughts were yes there is definitely gains to be had by installing a new FMIC system. I pulled over after a spirited drive, the inlet side of the IC was hot whilst the outlet side was COLD! Definitely is doing its job!

As my D40 Nav is auto I have noticed gear changes somehow seem smoother and less laggy. Without providing dyno figures I cannot show the exact performance gains but they are definitely obvious when driving.

Cost: Overall the project cost me about $300. Paid $80 for the HDI IC core (450x300x100mm), $150 for boxes of stainless steel bends (ended up with some left over), carton of Superdry for the 2 1/2" stainless steel pipe and about $20 worth of consumables.

I think if you are going to fabricate it using aluminium you may save some $$$.

Pics will be uploaded tonight.
 
Sorry for the late pic. Ended up wrinkle painting the piping and giving the core a light coat in black. Any feedback is welcomed. Cheers
 

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So wat did u have to move from the front?? An where did ya put it?? It put that intercooler in. I up to this stage but havnt gotten around to doin it. Intercooler an piping that is.
 
To mount the cooler where I did (with the inlets at the top), I had to get the blokes at work to re-work the alloy lines to the AC Drier Accumulator. Not a big task but must take care to not kink the lines, we used some plumbing tools to do the job. We just relocated it off to the side a bit. Have had no dramas so far but if I do I will just get some new lines run. No biggy.

Other than that, either side of the radiator is some small plastic panels, they need to go and a few brackets that support the front bumper in the centre...They were overkill and the bumper is 100% solid without them so I never went to the trouble of fabbing some new ones. But that depends on the size of the I/C core you go with. Mine was 450x300x76mm so I needed the extra depth behind the bumper.

I made the whole kit myself though, was 100% custom. Think it came out pretty good not too mention it cost me less than $300. Once you get stuck into it you will see what can stay and what need's to go. I am handy with a tig so I wasn't really bothered removing things to make way for custom parts.
 
Also get some decent clamps, the ones I got were rubbish (pictured) they have held up under boost but just don't look that great and they struggle clamping under the pressure I need them too.
 
Thanks. I just need some one to alloy weld the pipes up for me . The ac is another problem as well for me moving it but im sure the bloke i get to weld up the pipes would have a better idea on where to put it an take it off.. My cooler is 600x350x76 tube n fin.
 
U spray that cooler?? Yea i get heavy duty clamps from works.
 
Man I think you will have dramas trying to mount that how I did mine. I feel yours would be a better fit down lower in the front bar. Somewhere around where the licence plate height might be the level you find it fits better. Will also give you more room to fab the elbows off the inlet/outlet of the core. If you mount it lower you wont have to worry about touching the AC system as well. You WILL need to remove the front bumper to fit yours unfortunately. There is very little room to work and I think you will have a much easier time with it off getting all your bends fabbed up and cooler mounted.

Yeah gave the tank ends a few solid coats and the fins some light passes with some matt black. Just hides it better behind the grill, stood out lots prior to painting it. The picture makes it look like I missed a few spots but it's definitely solid black haha.
 
Nice work. Althou the S/S fabbed pipes are better off left as shiny as possible to reflect the heat in the engine bay (the black paint will absorb the heat) and intercoolers should be painted a black conductive paint to exchange the heat to the air better.
 

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