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Realistically if a mechanic was any good then the first time they look at servicing your car they should know if it has a dpf or not. Good mechanics in my opinion keep updating their knowledge of cars not just from what they learn on.
 
Realistically if a mechanic was any good then the first time they look at servicing your car they should know if it has a dpf or not. Good mechanics in my opinion keep updating their knowledge of cars not just from what they learn on.


Thats true,
keep in mind also that some do their own oil change and
1/ are not using the correct oil,
or
2/ dont want to pay up to $120 for 2 x 5litre oils.
 
2/ Re: Oils/DPF's....Me thinks thats the key to this issue. I've a suspicion that the ones having probs with them might not be using DPF friendly engine oils. You just need to have a look at the thread "What oils are you using" to see the big range of oils being used.
The oils that are DPF friendly are'nt rare, as all the major oil brands have them although they are of the higher cost type, nonetheless they are of superior quality being full synthetic.

That's something I hadn't considered, but when you think about it, the PCV is pumping engine oil into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust, so it may well be relevant.

I wonder what the ash content of the oil is? I know you don't like the subject, but the 2-stroke oil I was putting in my diesel had a very low ash content, but can the same be said of the crankcase oil?

It stands to reason that they wouldn't give a rats about the ash content of the engine oil since you're not supposed to be combusting it.

I wonder if a recommended addition to the D40 Auto is an oil catch can.
 
Oi! Tony! What are you doing online! You are supposed to be relaxing and enjoying yourself!

Now, get back to it :)
 
I'm sitting in Kangaroo Valley Tourist Park, we went up to Fitzroy Falls and it was fogbound, we'll try again in the morning. Went to Upper Kangaroo River to visit an old haunt, still precious but someone's soiling the water. :angry:

We stopped and had a pie at Barrengarry - if anyone is down this way, the pies cost $6.40 each and they're absolutely worth it.

Not sure the stumpy didgeridoo @ $150 is good value though, so I left it on the shelf.

But yes, having a nice relaxing time here, despite the rain. It sort of lends to the ambience of being in a rainforest. :big_smile:
 
That's something I hadn't considered, but when you think about it, the PCV is pumping engine oil into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust, so it may well be relevant.

I wonder what the ash content of the oil is? I know you don't like the subject, but the 2-stroke oil I was putting in my diesel had a very low ash content, but can the same be said of the crankcase oil?

It stands to reason that they wouldn't give a rats about the ash content of the engine oil since you're not supposed to be combusting it.

I wonder if a recommended addition to the D40 Auto is an oil catch can.



As well as PCV,

keep in mind that some engine oil is burnt in the chamber (more so in new engines) due to the oil scraper rings leaving behind oil in the 'cross hatch' hone marks machined into the cylinder walls to aid in wall to piston lubrication and piston ring bedding,
and
crankcase pressure during closed throttle (high vacuum) pulls an oily vapour up past the rings via the gaps and into the chambers, and sometimes down the valve guides to be burnt with the next throttle open position.

Dont know if the Victa oil your adding is full "low SAPS" certified or not,
but being at least 'low ash' helps.

The correct and only engine oils to use with DPF fitted engines are formulated specifically for these engines and are of "Low SAPS"...that is low in Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur, but obviously not completely absent.

Also of interest could be if there was the addition of any other additives / potions or concoctions to the fuel of these engines.
Aswell I'd be interested to know what oils were being used by the one's with the complaints.
 
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Dont know if the Victa oil your adding is full "low SAPS" certified or not,
but being at least 'low ash' helps.

The correct and only engine oils to use with DPF fitted engines are formulated specifically for these engines and are of "Low SAPS"...that is low in Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur, but obviously not completely absent.

Also of interest could be if there was the addition of any other additives / potions or concoctions to the fuel of these engines.
Aswell I'd be interested to know what oils were being used by the one's with the complaints.

The 2-stroke I was adding is specifically formulated for 2-stroke motorcycles, and there are 3 grades of that oil: normal, low-ash and high performance (which is also low ash).

The normal oil isn't JASO FC rated, so I didn't bother. The low ash JASO FC-rated Castrol Activ 2T one apparently allows a 2-stroke motorcycle to run without blowing any smoke which is why it's a good choice for adding to diesel engines. The high performance one is used in track racing and I failed to see the point of spending $30 a litre for my purposes when I only needed to have the FC rated oil (at $12 a litre).

As for other additives, I'd be interested in them as well. The 2-stroke apparently raises the combustion temperature by a small amount, but that is enough to more completely combust the fuel during the combustion stroke itself, so there are less particles making it to the DPF in the first place.

The higher temperature would result in the DPF being a few degrees hotter at all times, which means anything caught on the DPF would burn off faster as well. I'm not sure what the temperature difference is doing to the CAT, but since the CAT is removing oxides of nitrogen from the exhaust I'm assuming that the slightly higher temperature is better.

We're not talking a large difference. 300ml over 80 litres is about 0.4% (4ml per litre). That small amount seems to make a decent difference, both in noise levels and in performance. Without extensive figures and only a couple of tankfuls to look at, I'm seeing about 2L per hundred km improvement. Some of that may be environmental.

The quantity of engine oil consumed during the combustion process is going to be less than that, since after 5,000km of driving, there's still most of the oil in the crankcase. The manual shows something interesting in the oil specification:

Diesel engine
API grade CF-4*1, *2
JAS0 DH-1*1

Check that JASO rating - it's ultra low ash content. So Nissan are recommending low ash engine oils. Interesting stuff about the DH-1 oil is in the reference manual, but it's a heavy read so get your engineering hats on. Basically they describe how DH-1 oils are low ash, low sulphur, high quality yadda yadda yadda.

I bet you're absolutely on the money - the issue with DPF failures may indeed be related to the incorrect engine oil being used. It would be marvellous if one of the guys with DPF problems could give us the exact brand and type of oil used in their crankcase. We might be on to something here!
 
I'm not really a believer in adding oil to diesel but I agree it has to be low ash just like the engine oil needs to be however the whole oil in diesel thing does bring up another possible issue.

There is already oil added to the diesel we purchase in this country but what oil is it. Are the diesel companies adding low ash oil to the diesel for those of us that have DPF's or are they ignoring DPF's and adding the cheapest oil they can find as it's primary job is to aid lubrication which just about any oil does.

I'm sure the diesel companies aren't stupid enough to make themselves liable by providing a product that might be proven to be damaging so maybe they don't use anything but low ash oil and maybe the ratios are small enough they don't believe it to be an issue but who knows maybe some DPF's have been ultra sensitive.
 
Of course....seeing as though Nissan specify a super duper oil for the DPF equipped auto trans engined models, and (basically) any old 15W40 diesel engine oil for the non-DPF manual trans, I think you guys have answered your own questions. The engines are otherwise identical, so why would they require a different spec of oil if it weren't for something downstream of the engine?

I would suggest it most likely that consumption of non-spec engine oil is the culprit. Anyone with an auto trans and DPF care to test the theory :)
 
Oh cmon.....

don't you want to have the title "PIONEER" when they read your eulogy.

Not particularly. I'd settle for "He red lotts and spoak gud iNglish."

We've now a fair idea of what could cause catastrophic DPF failure. Let's see if someone who's had such a failure can recall what oil they had in their sump on the day. It's the least expensive route, too!
 
Oh well,

I don't have one of those "greenie's" fitted under my ute to give it a try.

we'll have to wait for someone else to confirm the speculation.
 
A DPF question.

I am sure I read somewhere that the new Navara's DO NOT have a DPF when fitted with a manual gearbox.

Is this correct?
 
A DPF question.

I am sure I read somewhere that the new Navara's DO NOT have a DPF when fitted with a manual gearbox.

Is this correct?

That was true for the 2009 D40 models. All D22s were NOT fitted with the DPF.

I have no info about the 2010, but I'll bet that the fitting of DPFs will become more widespread as the technology improves and the need to reduce emissions becomes greater.
 
Wholehog, regarding your original question "auto or manual".
We asked the same question when we were looking at buying our D40 last year.
We drove both the auto & manual a number of times & we were surprised at how much more we enjoyed the manual.
My wife had not driven a manual for 20 years, & she noticed that the manual in 6th gear seemed quieter & she said she felt it was more responsive. I agreed, but I was worried about the "Clutch issues" I had read about in the forums.
The dealer said that the issues I was worried about had been dealt with & the clutch was a heavier type than the 2006-7 model.
I was still doubtful so I have his guarantee documented on my sales contract in case of future warranty issues.
I have now driven almost 15,000 K's, have towed my 1.8T van up hill & down dale, a fair bit of county driving & a little city motoring. If I had to do more city driving, I would not hesitate to go the auto, but the type of driving I do most of the time I LOVE swapping coggs.
Regarding "Being slow off the mark", I have a son-in-law with a auto 100 series turbo diesel landcruiser & in a "Drag" up to 120kph he is not in the hunt, which blows him away as he hates Nissans.
I know that was a fair rant, but I thought I would put my 2 cents worth in.
Cheers, Phil
 

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