Dodgy Dealership service!

[Mitchie56]

Hi i recently bought a 2008 D40 stx Diesel with 80,000km's on it.
The dealership was supposed to service it for its 80k but that never happened, so i took it back and complained and they did it last week.

I was checking over the engine last night sussing out what is what and looked at the air filter and it was filthy. Now i know that should have been done (cleaned/changed) in the service, so i bought a ryco filter today. But now that brings me onto the oil i'm worried if they even do the air filter, why would they bother with oil, my question is should i change the oil myself? I have to drive back to my barracks in Melbourne from Sunshine Coast QLD in a week, and last thing i want is to be calling my DNCO telling them that i'm stuck on the side of the road in woop woop. I checked the oil and it was already black after the "service" after driving about 30km i understand its a diesel but the oil wouldn't go that dark that quickly?

I've already bought 5L Penrite HPR Diesel 5w40 This oil is well recommended for the D40? i know i'll need more oil for a change. And should i invest into oil flush for the change? Also if i do change what filter nissan genuine or ryco? and i may as well whilst being down there change fuel filter any suggestions on brand (never changed fuel filter before).

Cheers Mitch

 

[joe2006]

My oil is also black following a service after driving about 10ks home. Being paranoid, I usually mark the oil filter and it has always been changed so I am fairly confident the oil has been changed as well.

Perhaps check the sump plug. If the sump was dirty, you might be able to see if they have touched the plug, that is, whether it has been disturbed and has a new copper washer.

 

[sparra04]

hi mitch
the oil in a diesel will be black pretty much straight away, ide say within 10 ks
what does your receipt say?
cheers

 

[jjohn]

If the receipt says they did it you'd be pretty right.
If not I would ask them why its not on there. The service department buys then off the parts dept.
If you don't care to have it out. I would go genuine with at least the fuel filter as some have had trouble with others.
If its the auto it will have a dpf and that means a low ash oil.Manual is OK.
I'm sick of ryco oil filters loosing the anti drain back valve so I'm going with genuine.

 

[mitch92]

Don't go ryco oil filters, use genuine

 

[Old.Tony]

The dealer probably didn't want to touch the 80,000km service because it's one of the big ones - every 40,000km the car gets a full change of fluids, new rear view mirror and filters except for brake, transfer case and auto gearbox. Includes the pollen filters, oil filter, fuel filter, both diffs. Generally costs somewhere over $1K to us and should take a couple of hours (for a stocked service department staffed by someone who knows how to use a left-handed hammer).

If your air filter was NOT replaced, I'd be highly suspicious that they just stamped the book. As above, check the sump plug, look at the filter (right-hand side of the engine).

If replacing them yourself, as Jjohn says, after-market fuel filters are highly problematic and even genuine ones need care when installing to ensure the small o-ring in the centre is seated properly. Oil filters haven't been as troublesome.

Because yours is a manual you don't have a DPF to worry about, so you can get away with a "normal" diesel oil, which will go black fairly soon after the service. It's caused by soot passing the piston rings - this is reduced by blocking the EGR which will allow the combustion process to be more complete. You'll actually end up with more blow-by (and a higher rate of flow out the PCV as a result, so a catch can would be next on the shopping list) but your oil will last a few km longer before it darkens.

 

[Black Beautie]

Use a full synthetic oil it should last 10,000k. My machinic told me the fuel filter should be good for 40 to 50, 000k.also check the pollen filters under passager side dash.
Another thing that you should check is the sll the plastic heater connections under the bonnet. If one of them goes on you on a long trip. You'll be in big trouble. That's what happen to me just over two years ago. Nothing but trouble since.

 

[jjohn]

Its more than just the oil change cost to you then if the 80,000 k service is so comprehensive.
Its $1,000 out of pocket.
They must also provide the 3 month/5,000 k warranty.
You don't have to return to them for the warranty if you find a problem. Just get a diagnosis from a mechanic and quote. Its law.

 

[Mitchie56]

Use a full synthetic oil it should last 10,000k. My machinic told me the fuel filter should be good for 40 to 50, 000k.also check the pollen filters under passager side dash.
Another thing that you should check is the sll the plastic heater connections under the bonnet. If one of them goes on you on a long trip. You'll be in big trouble. That's what happen to me just over two years ago. Nothing but trouble since.

What do i need to look for with the sll plastic heater connections?

 

[Mitchie56]

The dealer probably didn't want to touch the 80,000km service because it's one of the big ones - every 40,000km the car gets a full change of fluids, new rear view mirror and filters except for brake, transfer case and auto gearbox. Includes the pollen filters, oil filter, fuel filter, both diffs. Generally costs somewhere over $1K to us and should take a couple of hours (for a stocked service department staffed by someone who knows how to use a left-handed hammer).

If your air filter was NOT replaced, I'd be highly suspicious that they just stamped the book. As above, check the sump plug, look at the filter (right-hand side of the engine).

If replacing them yourself, as Jjohn says, after-market fuel filters are highly problematic and even genuine ones need care when installing to ensure the small o-ring in the centre is seated properly. Oil filters haven't been as troublesome.

Because yours is a manual you don't have a DPF to worry about, so you can get away with a "normal" diesel oil, which will go black fairly soon after the service. It's caused by soot passing the piston rings - this is reduced by blocking the EGR which will allow the combustion process to be more complete. You'll actually end up with more blow-by (and a higher rate of flow out the PCV as a result, so a catch can would be next on the shopping list) but your oil will last a few km longer before it darkens.

Is the catch can an easy install? same with EGR? especially for a bloke who is still learning cars and no experience what so ever?

 

[Mitchie56]

Thanks for all the advice going to have to look under the hood today and check it all out. No receipt as the dealership i bought the car from organised it all and took it away giving me a loan car for two days. But they stamped the service book, which makes them liable for the next 10,00km's right?

 

[grasshopper]

It's up to you Mitch,
But if you are at all concerned about the oil change, just do it yourself. OR ask a favour of a mate or forumite to get it done before you drive Sth to Melb area.
Cheap insurance and not worth the SHYTE if anything happens while you are on the road Sth...
Where abouts are you in Brisbane?
I am now in Raceview, Ipswich. I could assist you for a carton of Bitburger bier = cheap labour.

 

[Old.Tony]

Is the catch can an easy install? same with EGR? especially for a bloke who is still learning cars and no experience what so ever?

Catch can and EGR are quite easy to do.

Catch can: there's a hose that comes from the back of the top of the motor and connects to the air intake just in front of the turbocharger. All you're really doing here (effectively) is cutting this hose and running it into and then out of a metal can. In practice, you'd buy a section of hose that would run from the outlet at the rear of the motor to your catch can, and use the existing hose to run from the catch can back to where it currently connects on the intake. What happens is that the oil vapour coming through the hose is encouraged to condense (turn to liquid) inside the can and remain there.

EGR Block: there are stickied threads about this in the D40 engine area with explanations of why. It's a piece of cake to do, too. Look at the front of the engine, there's a gold-ish pipe that runs around the front, connecting from the exhaust on the vehicle's left hand side around to the intake manifold on the right hand side. There are two bolts holding this pipe onto the manifold. Undo the bolts, remove the gasket and trace it onto a 1mm+ piece of stainless steel (never aluminium, stainless is preferred), including the two smaller holes but accidentally forget to trace out the larger hole. Now cut where the lines are and reinstall - no more EGR flow. It's a good idea to use a sensor-safe gasket sealer when reinstalling.