Forefront industries oil air separator small

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FYI my reply from Forefront. Should put the arguement to rest.

Hi steve

I have been asked this a lot lately

I personally think it can be done both ways.....no matter what happens it has to go through 20 layers of stainless tightly weaved mesh so no matter what that will catch the oil then drip to the bottom of the can

Both ways have positive points to them..

bottom inlet – as you say ...it means oily air enters the pipe has to go through mesh ( which means oil gets stuck) then would have to go UP to get out of the can IF it made it through the mesh
it would gather in the mesh and seep to the bottom of the mesh and then eventuall8y find its way to the drain ( same principal as provent 200)

top inlet – means the oil enters on the drain side of the filter....so some may argue that the filter would drain more easily since the oil is entering on the same side it has to get out of

both have positives but the unit was labelled as the arrow suggest on it having the INLET at the bottom

Brlliant. This saves an email to Forefront. Cheers. Bottom inlet it is then. I would think it woild be harder for oil to rise as it is heavier than air. So i will be using the bottom inlet as marked on the catch can
 
Doing it tomorrow if i can find a store open for hose, might just go to Enzed i think they have some.
but have had a look an was thinking of cutting some 3mm for a bracket and using the fuel filter/pump and mounting in front of that by using its mounting bolts, so the bracket will secure using the filter bolts and come around the front and then the can will bolt to that. hope that makes sense. can't really think of another area thats easy to design a mount.
 
Oh cool. The exact spot your talking about has been taken up by my stanadyne fuel manager system. My mechanic reckons i should remove it and install a CAT one wich replaces the genuine unit and the stanadyne in one filter system, also filtering down to 2micron. The genuine only filters to 10 micron or something. I am having to remove the 2nd start battery and fab a bracket to house it in there. It might work out alright cause i think i could install the arb pump under bonnet if i wanted to
 
Sounds like your hands are full there Sparra. This is what I ended up with, it's ok for now but may get an elbow as the short hose has a slight kink in it. If I get around to it that it.
 

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Well they are on trial. There is this special place that sell many different thing and one of those thins are reducers. You may have heard of it. It's called Bunnings. Hahaha. Yeah they are copper reducers each end sits +/- 1mm either side of 16mm and 19mm can't remember which way. I think they are actually 15mm and 20mm but they fit fairly smug you will need to heat the 19mm hose and give it some love then clam it. Still trailing it and seeing how we go. Gone for first drive today I'll check tonight and have a looksy.
 
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No reducers available that I could find (in brass barbs that is). I ended up using a 3/4" female/female coupling with a 5/8" barb screwed into one end and a 3/4" barb screwed into the other end. Overkill, but parts were convenient.

Mofo's solution of the copper joiner is the neatest - and by far the cheapest. If you were to put a little permatex number 3 on the joiner before sitting the hose in place you can pretty much guarantee yourself a leak-free connection.
 
5 page thread? Its a ****en catch can. And a good one. Just get hose that fits over the smaller outlet and use hot water to stretch it over the bigger one. And its rocker cover to top hole AFAIC . That is all.
 
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Still need to find a plug though for the drain. I actually find this threat quite good, full of good information and alternatives. That is all.
 
Yewww found the fittings at a fittings joint near work. 3/4 - 5/8 barb to barb fitting. Plus got myself a tap for the drain side. All in brass
 
What's with needing reducers? Mine fitted straight on, 19mm hose for the standard pcv system, fit straight on the can....... I have a 2010 so they should all be the same...…..…. I would have thought..........?? As for the drain, I am going to find some oil resistant clear hose to use as a gauge, but at the moment I have an m10 bolt with thread sealant on the end of it screwed into the bottom to plug it...
 
Bods. Mine has a 16mm hose on it going to my old catch can i installed. Something must have changed. I was thinking of the clear stuff but had already purchased the black hose.
 
What's with needing reducers? Mine fitted straight on, 19mm hose for the standard pcv system, fit straight on the can....... I have a 2010 so they should all be the same...…..…. I would have thought..........?? As for the drain, I am going to find some oil resistant clear hose to use as a gauge, but at the moment I have an m10 bolt with thread sealant on the end of it screwed into the bottom to plug it...

Looking at doing the same with a tap as the drain is easily accessed where i have located it. my hose was 16mm from the engine and 19mm on the Forefront can so reducers were required.
 
My 2008 was 16mm (actually 5/8" hose) from the engine, and 19mm (actually 3/4" hose) on the oil separator.

No matter how much hot water you use, there is no way on God's green earth that a 5/8" reinforced oil rsistant hose is going to expand to get over a 3/4" fitting. It's designed NOT to expand that much, even when hot.
 
I know why they are needed, I just find it strange that some of them have 19mm hose and others have 16mm...... In saying that the pcv hose on mine isn't reinforced, just standard rubber hose.. I had some 19mm LPG vapour hose in the shed, which is oil resistant too which fitted perfectly onto the outlet on the rocker cover as well as the catch can, so it's not like one end of the hose is bigger than the other end.....

Still seems really weird to me..........
 
might sound stupid as, but when you guys are referring to INLET, are you saying the INLET to the catch can, not the intake pipe for the motor?
 

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