Fraser Island Trip turned Disaster
- Thread starter k3vin
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k3vin
Member
Cheer Rastik86, I hope I do too. mate..
Errics, I believe the root cause was a gasket and wear and tear over time. (maybe previous owner, I got the car @ 180k and service it every 8000kms)
After the engine change, it wasn't starting, the issue was the previous own put the alternator on the wrong side of the fuse block? So he was surprised it was starting and working all this time.
So a summary of what was changed:
- Complete Engine (turbo, injectors, etc) (second hard, not rebuilt)
- Radiator
- Hoses
- Clamps
- Thermostat
- Fuse block (one that is on positive terminal)
- Alternator
- Starter Motor
- Drive Belts
- Gearbox mount (not sure how this broke)
- Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Fluids (oil, coolant, gearbox)
- 4 to 5 days labour
Alot of fuses kept blowing so I was re-wiring things on the way back down and tracing.
Just picked up my car from my mechanic essentially did a minor service on it for me and checked everything.
Told me saw alot of grease oil along the block, so he cleaned it up. Told me it might be a possible oil leak .........
Will drive around for a few days and go back to see him to check it out if it is a leak, or hoping its just grease/oil from the change over.
Also grabbed 2 bottles of chem-weld off him (just in case for future).
I guess for anyone who likes to travel, make sure you get NRMA Roadside assist Premium care, I got this now.
At least next time i'll be able to get my car towed for free back to home from remote location..
Errics, I believe the root cause was a gasket and wear and tear over time. (maybe previous owner, I got the car @ 180k and service it every 8000kms)
After the engine change, it wasn't starting, the issue was the previous own put the alternator on the wrong side of the fuse block? So he was surprised it was starting and working all this time.
So a summary of what was changed:
- Complete Engine (turbo, injectors, etc) (second hard, not rebuilt)
- Radiator
- Hoses
- Clamps
- Thermostat
- Fuse block (one that is on positive terminal)
- Alternator
- Starter Motor
- Drive Belts
- Gearbox mount (not sure how this broke)
- Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Fluids (oil, coolant, gearbox)
- 4 to 5 days labour
Alot of fuses kept blowing so I was re-wiring things on the way back down and tracing.
Just picked up my car from my mechanic essentially did a minor service on it for me and checked everything.
Told me saw alot of grease oil along the block, so he cleaned it up. Told me it might be a possible oil leak .........
Will drive around for a few days and go back to see him to check it out if it is a leak, or hoping its just grease/oil from the change over.
Also grabbed 2 bottles of chem-weld off him (just in case for future).
I guess for anyone who likes to travel, make sure you get NRMA Roadside assist Premium care, I got this now.
At least next time i'll be able to get my car towed for free back to home from remote location..
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Mate so sorry to hear about all the probs and the hit to your wallet.
I noticed Tony mentioned earlier about the stuff to repair head gaskets and cracked heads or other issues in the cooling system.
The stuff i have used and since recommended to mates is "SEAL-UP" this stuff is the goods much better then chemiweld and other products, it wont block and damage other areas of the cooling system like i have seen other products do.
I first used it on my D22 after i went through a dam before fitting my snorkel and sucked up water, long story short the head was so bad it was letting water into the cylinder and actually hydraulic locking it and it would take 10min to start it, and it was also using allot of water.
Once i stuck some of the "SEAL-UP" in it was back to normal and stayed that way for over 150,000km!!
I first heard about it from my mates oldman who has been a plant mechanic for over 40years, he explained that it is made basically from silica which will melt only when it hits extreme temps where the crack is and basically melts into the crack and welds it up, once its sealed the temp around that area will return to normal and the silica will remain as a permanent ("glass" type) weld.
I have since used it in my mates Triton that was using 3lt of water and hitting big temps in a 60km drive to work, now its still running around perfectly with no issues for well over 12months.
The biggest thing with this stuff is make 100% sure you get ALL the coolant out before adding the "SEAL-UP" as it doesnt like coolant and from what ive heard from people who haven't had luck with it is they never flushed the cooling system properly and just dumped it and then filled it with water, you really need to flush it good to allow the silica to adhere to the effected surface properly..
I noticed Tony mentioned earlier about the stuff to repair head gaskets and cracked heads or other issues in the cooling system.
The stuff i have used and since recommended to mates is "SEAL-UP" this stuff is the goods much better then chemiweld and other products, it wont block and damage other areas of the cooling system like i have seen other products do.
I first used it on my D22 after i went through a dam before fitting my snorkel and sucked up water, long story short the head was so bad it was letting water into the cylinder and actually hydraulic locking it and it would take 10min to start it, and it was also using allot of water.
Once i stuck some of the "SEAL-UP" in it was back to normal and stayed that way for over 150,000km!!
I first heard about it from my mates oldman who has been a plant mechanic for over 40years, he explained that it is made basically from silica which will melt only when it hits extreme temps where the crack is and basically melts into the crack and welds it up, once its sealed the temp around that area will return to normal and the silica will remain as a permanent ("glass" type) weld.
I have since used it in my mates Triton that was using 3lt of water and hitting big temps in a 60km drive to work, now its still running around perfectly with no issues for well over 12months.
The biggest thing with this stuff is make 100% sure you get ALL the coolant out before adding the "SEAL-UP" as it doesnt like coolant and from what ive heard from people who haven't had luck with it is they never flushed the cooling system properly and just dumped it and then filled it with water, you really need to flush it good to allow the silica to adhere to the effected surface properly..
How is it the filters, clamps, drive belts alternator and starter motor was needed for a gasket and ultimate engine failure From said gasket?? I mean couldn't he use all those from the old motor?? Just wondering in sure there is more to it but to me it sounds like the block etc needed replacing but not all the components, sorry to hear your holiday went to shite like this. Real shame.
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J13NST
Member
i would of changed on mine. while its all out. did fair about of K's and judging from video he did went thru few salt water crossing might have caused rust issue since car was not drivable and prolly didnt get to wash engine bay for weeks.
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