Just blocked EGR but..

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EVLSTX

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G'day everyone

Blocked my egr today with suitable sized plate. Drilled a 8mm hole in the centre so the ecu doesn't catch on the blockage, my question is 'would the semi blocked plate still be as effective?'
 
09 ST-X. Iv been told on many occasions they throw up codes when blocked.

Anyway, if anyone can answer my question that would be great.
 
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I imagine the hole will block up soon enough as there is quite a bit if soot passing through the egr. You could remove it in a couple thousand ks and see how its going. This test may answer your question.

Many have been successful without the hole.
 
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I imagine the hole will block up soon enough as there is quite a bit if soot passing through the egr. You could remove it in a couple thousand ks and see how its going. This test may answer your question.

Many have been successful without the hole.

But if the soot that passes through eventually blocks up the hole, what's the difference if its completely blocked by soot or completely blocked from the plate with no hole?
 
Yep, none.

I'm going on my experience with the egr blank.
I had the 08 d40, plate in for 2k and pulled it for the Nissan service.
It had already piled up a little gunk.

It seems some later models threw codes or limp.
Many didn't.
Coincidence?
Its your vehicle, the choice has to sit well for you.
 
Yep, none.

I'm going on my experience with the egr blank.
I had the 08 d40, plate in for 2k and pulled it for the Nissan service.
It had already piled up a little gunk.

It seems some later models threw codes or limp.
Many didn't.
Coincidence?
Its your vehicle, the choice has to sit well for you.

Thanks mate:top:
 
I have a 2011 Thai built D40 and have done about 5000km without a hole in the blanking plate and have had no problems yet.
 
I have a 2011 Spainish built ST-X and fitted the EGR mod a couple of months back without drlling a hole, so far I have had no errpr codes.
 
09 ST-X. Iv been told on many occasions they throw up codes when blocked.

Well the many occasions you have been told that on each one they were wrong, it did happen with some of the ZD30's but only some.
I have owned both the 126kw motor and the 140kw motor one travelled over 75k and the other is still going with over 130k on it both had no whole drilled in it and both never once threw any sort of code.

So my answer to your question is why bother to block it in the first place, as it is sort of defeating the entire purpose of the plate
 
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Well the many occasions you have been told that on each one they were wrong, it did happen with some of the ZD30's but only some.
I have owned both the 126kw motor and the 140kw motor one travelled over 75k and the other is still going with over 130k on it both had no whole drilled in it and both never once threw any sort of code.

So my answer to your question is why bother to block it in the first place, as it is sort of defeating the entire purpose of the plate

Just going on what I have read. I think it makes sense to stop the majority of soot and gunk while only a fraction gets in, but yeah I see what you are saying. getting a fully blanked plate in a couple days, il fully block it and get it over with
 
Yeah fully block and if you're unlucky drill a small, say 4mm hole and if still getting a code just increase hole size by 1mm at a time until no code.
As far as I know Nathan the ZD30 doesn't sense the presence of egr, not smart enough, so should never throw a code for it fully blocked, correct me if I'm wrong if there's been proven cases though but my reading has lead me to think this.
 
Waiting for a fully blanked plate, should be in the mail by mid next week.
I gave the egr a good clean, it was a pain in the arse to take out of the engine bay but after a few too many cigarettes and non-stop swearing, I eventually got it out of the engine bay. Just one thing is a bit of a worry, I lost one of the 2 gaskets.. is it imperative I replace it before I drive or it's nothing to be concerned with?
 
Yeah fully block and if you're unlucky drill a small, say 4mm hole and if still getting a code just increase hole size by 1mm at a time until no code.
As far as I know Nathan the ZD30 doesn't sense the presence of egr, not smart enough, so should never throw a code for it fully blocked, correct me if I'm wrong if there's been proven cases though but my reading has lead me to think this.

Im not sure where i even read it, its that rare i have no idea, it may of even had something to do with the Butterfly/swirl mod and not of even been with the EGR??

All i know is out of all my Navs and all the guys i speak with and that have replied to my DIY thread not one has had to drill the hole or had any error codes come up as a result of a correctly installed plate.
 
The only reason to drill the hole in the plate is for the later model cars that have flow sensors in the EGR valves. We found that drilling a hole that allows a LITTLE exhaust gas to flow through will satisfy the sensor enough to stop it throwing codes.

I am not sure if Nissan put the sensor in place to stop people blanking the plate, or detecting when the EGR tube was blocked with soot. Not all models have the sensor, so starting with a fully blanked plate is the way to go, and have the drill handy for Justin Case (he's such a worry).
 
Hi All,
I'm new to the forum so apologies if this has been mentioned elsewhere, i did a search but figured I'd just join in...

I blanked my 2010 Thai built ST as an experiment,

It didn't throw a code so to speak however it did flash "Oil Low" when installed.
Oil level was fine on inspection, I removed the plate and sure enough the warning went away.

With the Blank installed it seems to flash half a dozen times on initial start up but then go away. I test drove it with and without the blank installed and didn't have any issues but it defiantly flashed the Oil Low warning on each start up when installed.

I will be trying again on the weekend starting with a 4mm hole in the plate.
Even if that works surely in time that hole will block up and the oil light will come back???
 
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Welcome aboard! Now that's a curious one. EGR has nothing to do with oil level, the oil level sensor isn't exactly close by. Crossed wires? I wonder if there's something else happening here. The Thai 2010 ST shouldn't have a flow sensor in it (I thought the flow sensors were only on the 140/170kW Spanish builds) so drilling a hole in the plate shouldn't do much.

Still leaves the question - why does the oil light come on? Can you check the electrical connector on the oil sender?
 

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