lag

[navtruckchic]

After reading this thread Im going to make a few suggestions based on my experiences of getting power out of the YD25.

The biggest single gain in power you will get is from a chip, these cost anywhere from $300 for an ebay special all the way up to $2000 for a top of the line Unichip. You get what you pay for. There are also mixed result from ECU re-flashes but I don't have any experience on this so cannot comment.

Second biggest gain is boost pressure, a YD25 runs between 15 - 16psi stock. The stock intercooler is good till about 19- 20psi before an aftermarket unit is required. By running higher boost it will allow the turbo to spool quicker resulting in you reaching what is called WOT (wide open throttle) at lower rpm. It is also pretty cheap ($50) to buy and fit.

Third biggest gain is an intercooler. A large front mount or W2A will give you best results. I found that running a top mount with a thermo fan did bugger all. Maybe a slightly quicker spool time at low rpm. These can range from $200 for an ebay special to $3000 for a top of the line W2A from Laminova. Keeping intake temps cool is critical when running higher boost

Other mods that help:

Aftermarket turbo: the most common upgrade is the Forefront turbo. Due to its billet design and superior inducer wheel it will spool quicker than the stock turbo. As I have not purchased one I cannot comment on its performance. There are a few individuals running VNT or twin turbo setups however their results are not well documented.

EGR blocking/removal: Blocking this line will allow the turbo to spool at about 200rpm earlier. Complete removal, especially at the intake port will give slightly better results. Pretty cheap for $20 - $50 bucks.

Aftermarket exhaust: 2.5" - 3" is pretty common. biggest gain will be the dump pipe, can cost anywhere from $700 - $1500.

Airbox, Snorkel and Intercooler piping upgrade. Will help with turbo spool and reduce stock piping restriction, prices will vary depending what you get done.

Diff ratios: changing to a higher diff ratio will help you get off the line quicker at the expense of top end speed. 4.6's are ideal for turning 33's

Tyre Size: 33's are a lot harder to turn than 30's due to their weight and higher inertia.

Weight of the Nav: It can add up pretty quick. Dual batts 30kgs, steel front bar 50kgs, winch 30kgs, sliders 30kgs, rear bar 25kgs, draws 20kgs, canopy 15kgs, aftermarket fuel/water tank - anywhere between 50 - 150kgs. Tools and gear - up to 400kgs.
Carrying all this extra weight everyday adds up.

As you can see there are many factors which affect turbo lag and no 2 navs will be the same. Having a budget and goal on what you want out of your YD25 is the best place to start

What's your thoughts on my issue with the aircon on which is causing loss of power??

And thanks. All I've done with the above comments is the egr block. The rest is all a bit over my head lacking in funds to be able to do them

 

[dilmah]

The AC compressor will zap power on any engine when it is engaged. I have found that larger displacement engines with a larger rotating mass tend to suffer less from using the compressor. I have a TD42 patrol and I notice it a lot less in the troll than I do the Nav.

My only suggestion would be to do some of the more cheaper mods mentioned above, they all help with removing lag. Im not sure on your mechanical ability but if you can blank off the EGR you should be able to remove the EGR inlet in the inlet manifold. The kit off YD25 is about $40 from memory.

Otherwise fit a boost controller and wind the boost up to 19psi, again a $50 mod and very easy to do.

 

[camo.b]

Ive got a older chip you can try here gordy..5 mins to plug it in and see what you think..will swap for booze

 

[navtruckchic]

The AC compressor will zap power on any engine when it is engaged. I have found that larger displacement engines with a larger rotating mass tend to suffer less from using the compressor. I have a TD42 patrol and I notice it a lot less in the troll than I do the Nav.

My only suggestion would be to do some of the more cheaper mods mentioned above, they all help with removing lag. Im not sure on your mechanical ability but if you can blank off the EGR you should be able to remove the EGR inlet in the inlet manifold. The kit off YD25 is about $40 from memory.

Otherwise fit a boost controller and wind the boost up to 19psi, again a $50 mod and very easy to do.

Thanks!! Will look in to these mods!

 

[abouttogobush]

the biggest prob is most don't know how to drive a small capacity diesel that relis on boost to move 2.2t it aint a 4.2 yota or patrol ffs

 

[blitzinit]

I've always been a windows down kinda girl, I only use the aircon when it gets past mid 30s lol

If you didn't have/use aircon where I live you would die lol.. It's a necessity!! But yeah.. It does drain power.

 

[blitzinit]

After reading this thread Im going to make a few suggestions based on my experiences of getting power out of the YD25. The biggest single gain in power you will get is from a chip, these cost anywhere from $300 for an ebay special all the way up to $2000 for a top of the line Unichip. You get what you pay for. There are also mixed result from ECU re-flashes but I don't have any experience on this so cannot comment. Second biggest gain is boost pressure, a YD25 runs between 15 - 16psi stock. The stock intercooler is good till about 19- 20psi before an aftermarket unit is required. By running higher boost it will allow the turbo to spool quicker resulting in you reaching what is called WOT (wide open throttle) at lower rpm. It is also pretty cheap ($50) to buy and fit. Third biggest gain is an intercooler. A large front mount or W2A will give you best results. I found that running a top mount with a thermo fan did bugger all. Maybe a slightly quicker spool time at low rpm. These can range from $200 for an ebay special to $3000 for a top of the line W2A from Laminova. Keeping intake temps cool is critical when running higher boost Other mods that help: Aftermarket turbo: the most common upgrade is the Forefront turbo. Due to its billet design and superior inducer wheel it will spool quicker than the stock turbo. As I have not purchased one I cannot comment on its performance. There are a few individuals running VNT or twin turbo setups however their results are not well documented. EGR blocking/removal: Blocking this line will allow the turbo to spool at about 200rpm earlier. Complete removal, especially at the intake port will give slightly better results. Pretty cheap for $20 - $50 bucks. Aftermarket exhaust: 2.5" - 3" is pretty common. biggest gain will be the dump pipe, can cost anywhere from $700 - $1500. Airbox, Snorkel and Intercooler piping upgrade. Will help with turbo spool and reduce stock piping restriction, prices will vary depending what you get done. Diff ratios: changing to a higher diff ratio will help you get off the line quicker at the expense of top end speed. 4.6's are ideal for turning 33's Tyre Size: 33's are a lot harder to turn than 30's due to their weight and higher inertia. Weight of the Nav: It can add up pretty quick. Dual batts 30kgs, steel front bar 50kgs, winch 30kgs, sliders 30kgs, rear bar 25kgs, draws 20kgs, canopy 15kgs, aftermarket fuel/water tank - anywhere between 50 - 150kgs. Tools and gear - up to 400kgs. Carrying all this extra weight everyday adds up. As you can see there are many factors which affect turbo lag and no 2 navs will be the same. Having a budget and goal on what you want out of your YD25 is the best place to start

Great post .. Thanks for the info

 

[houndour]

i've been driving my 2007 D22 nissan with YD25 non common-rail. 131HP from around 2 year(40000 kms+), from sea level to over 5000 meters high into the andes and there is no lack of power or lag.

the main thing here is driver's style or experience driving a little boosted diesel engine. You shouldnt expect to drive this little truck like a 80/79 series or patrol.

the first mod to do is EGR block. like someone said before, moves the load of the turbo from 2200rpm to 2000rpm and snorkel+bigger duct+bigger airbox will help to keep the turbo "loaded" even under 2000rpm(i already tested this at 4000+ meters high).

I also drive brand new diesel trucks at my work(cooper minning) like 3.2 L200, 3.0 Hilux and other brands, allof them have the same problem in traffic with the turbo lag but the difference is they are using varaible geometry turbos so you can hear them boost up pretty fast at around 1800RPM. This point another mod to do listed before.

about the suspension... well is a work truck, whatever they say it is a truck built at the old style. I think an aftermarket suspension kit would do the work, searhing around the forum will give you an idea of what to buy.

Aircon... at least on my truck is the same. Remember that the aircon compressor is connected to the motor throu belts, so is an extra load for the engine itself. If you run the Aircon at max power(number 4) you will notice less load on the motor than running at speed 1. Adding more information about this, if you read the owner's manual, it pointed that you shouldn't run Aircon under heavy traffic or start/stop moves.

And not being rude, for the guy that started the topic if you dont like the truck just sell it! go for something like D40, Amarok, Hilux, L200 that seems to be more softer and faster than the D22.

I really like my truck and kinda bothers me when someone comes to say bad things of the truck even when nobody forced them to buy it.


Greetings from Chile!!

 

[navtruckchic]

I love my truck don't get me wrong! Just asking if it was normal with the lag when the aircon is on. I've never owned a diesel before

 

[houndour]

I love my truck don't get me wrong! Just asking if it was normal with the lag when the aircon is on. I've never owned a diesel before

The last message was for the user that started the topic.


Greetings!!

 

[navtruckchic]

The last message was for the user that started the topic.





Greetings!!

Oh whoops! My bad

 

[Bad Juju]

i've been driving my 2007 D22 nissan with YD25 non common-rail. 131HP from around 2 year(40000 kms+), from sea level to over 5000 meters high into the andes and there is no lack of power or lag.

the main thing here is driver's style or experience driving a little boosted diesel engine. You shouldnt expect to drive this little truck like a 80/79 series or patrol.

the first mod to do is EGR block. like someone said before, moves the load of the turbo from 2200rpm to 2000rpm and snorkel+bigger duct+bigger airbox will help to keep the turbo "loaded" even under 2000rpm(i already tested this at 4000+ meters high).

I also drive brand new diesel trucks at my work(cooper minning) like 3.2 L200, 3.0 Hilux and other brands, allof them have the same problem in traffic with the turbo lag but the difference is they are using varaible geometry turbos so you can hear them boost up pretty fast at around 1800RPM. This point another mod to do listed before.

about the suspension... well is a work truck, whatever they say it is a truck built at the old style. I think an aftermarket suspension kit would do the work, searhing around the forum will give you an idea of what to buy.

Aircon... at least on my truck is the same. Remember that the aircon compressor is connected to the motor throu belts, so is an extra load for the engine itself. If you run the Aircon at max power(number 4) you will notice less load on the motor than running at speed 1. Adding more information about this, if you read the owner's manual, it pointed that you shouldn't run Aircon under heavy traffic or start/stop moves.

And not being rude, for the guy that started the topic if you dont like the truck just sell it! go for something like D40, Amarok, Hilux, L200 that seems to be more softer and faster than the D22.

I really like my truck and kinda bothers me when someone comes to say bad things of the truck even when nobody forced them to buy it.


Greetings from Chile!!

EGR block is already done, made sfa difference to performance.
Yes I feel a sense of disappointment on this vehicle as a 4wd. But this is something you simply cant do on a test drive.

As a work truck its just OK. It goes - just not quickly off the line. It is short on cabin space for accessories, short of tray space for everything else, and those in the back seat better be amputees from the mid thigh down.

Ill just drive it until it falls apart and look for something else - but as you pointed out all the new vehicles have the same short comings.

The suspension should be fit for purpose .... now I don't know what Nissan thinks the purpose is, but its not fit for: 4wd, carrying a load, or Qld roads in general.
I don't know what else there is.

I guess if your in Chille the D22 may be tuned differently and that could account from our vastly different experiences of this vehicle.

As for driving style, exactly HOW do you drive your D22 to get it to move from stationary rev its ring out and dump the clutch. Get serious! There is enough clutch issues as is because people ride the clutch and generally abuse it.

If you don't want to add constructive content to a thread F#&*( off.
We don't have to all be the same as you.

I am asking for ideas and advice on overcoming issues as I see them with this vehicle.

Thanks to those who have provided useful input, your help is appreciated.

 

[dilmah]

Once I get out of first I carnt change the gears quick enough and before I know it I'm doing 100km/h in 4th pulling 3000rpm. Running 4.88's makes a big difference to acceleration.

 

[4x4 ST-R]

I haven't done too much with regards to on road performance on my 2003 3.0l D22. EGR mod, snorkel, turbo back 3inch custom exhaust and just fitted a boost controller and wound it up to 18psi.
I haven't fitted an intercooler or chip yet. I'm running 32inch muddies and a little bit of extra weight. Just hit 199000.

I find the take off and general on road driving to be pretty good. Keeps off with city/suburban traffic pretty easily. I don't flog it too hard and definitely don't rev and ride the clutch. I do want more speed and acceleration and will buy the chip and intercooler soon, but it's not doing my head in, had this ride since 2010.

 

[Bad Juju]

Once I get out of first I carnt change the gears quick enough and before I know it I'm doing 100km/h in 4th pulling 3000rpm. Running 4.88's makes a big difference to acceleration.

Once its above 2000 rpms and rolling its OK, its the getting of the mark thats annoying.