you need the BCDC1240 it will have "LV(low voltage thresholds)" on the box which is for the so called "smart ALT"
Also if you want to run solar panels Redarc recommend using a RK1260 Readarc relay kit
Late 2010 D40 Dual Battery System
- Thread starter Foxbat
- Start date
Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:
you need the BCDC1240 it will have "LV(low voltage thresholds)" on the box which is for the so called "smart ALT"
Also if you want to run solar panels Redarc recommend using a RK1260 Readarc relay kit
Robski
Member
Cheers for the replies fellas, I have a mate who reckons he can get me a decent discount on the redarc because he works there. I will ask him how much the BCDC1240 is then. He doesn't go back till next Monday though. Im getting all this electrical work done by an auto elec so its done properly haha.
OldTony the diagram would be great, can you post it here so it helps others in my situation??
OldTony the diagram would be great, can you post it here so it helps others in my situation??
I won mine at the Navara Muster so i cant advise on the exact price, but from memory there isnt a massive difference.
BMGTZ
Member
I have just installed a redarc BCDC1240LV into my STX with the v6 550 motor. The unit cost me 429 delivered off ebay...plus the relay kit from arb canningvale.. that was 90.00. the best tip I can give is to get the relay from redarc when getting the unit... as 60 amp change over relays are hard to find. they are pricey but worth it
It all works well although I havent hooked up solar yet to see how that goes.
The next tip is the 50 amp inline fuses...I used car stereo fuse holders as I couldnt find any other that took 8bs wire. I soldered the wire after crushing it with the cap screw. If you dont solder it...you will find as I did...40 amps is capable of generating enough heat to melt the fuse holder if there is even a slight resistance in a joint.
It all works well although I havent hooked up solar yet to see how that goes.
The next tip is the 50 amp inline fuses...I used car stereo fuse holders as I couldnt find any other that took 8bs wire. I soldered the wire after crushing it with the cap screw. If you dont solder it...you will find as I did...40 amps is capable of generating enough heat to melt the fuse holder if there is even a slight resistance in a joint.
Robski
Member
Thanks BMGTZ, my auto sparky does a lot of heavy vehicle stuff (mainly actually) so I'm sure he will have all the right gear. When my mate goes back to work I will ask him to get me a price for the relay kit as well. I might also ask him if he can get things cheaper on a regular basis 
lol nope wouldn't want to do it on a regular basis, though at best that's what the factory cables are. It would be a jump start not full starting current draw from the aux.
yep sure is, so would need to let the batteries "equalise" a little if it wouldn't jump off the aux, but lets hope the cranker never goes flat and the aux has got charge. If it ever happened it would most likely be due to a failure in which case you'd just swap em over to get you out of trouble.
no probs
You'll see in the first pic below the "Hall Effect" sensor is circled in yellow and the loom plug is circled in green.
Pics 2 & 3 show the loom disconnected from the sensor.
Hope it helps someone - Jas
Attachments
Malicious
Member
Well looking at how the system works with the hall sensor setup a cheap option would be to wire the ground wire of the aux battery direct to the main batt terminal, all ground connections for power would then be made to the chassis , this would have the current flow from both batteries run through the hall sensor, a battery isolator made from a high current relay on the positive cable.
In theory this should allow the aux battery to charge properly whilst the engine is running .
Also the ground link between the batts should be as big as possible.
Once things quiet down at work and I finish the temp sensors I'm making I will start a project on this.
In theory this should allow the aux battery to charge properly whilst the engine is running .
Also the ground link between the batts should be as big as possible.
Once things quiet down at work and I finish the temp sensors I'm making I will start a project on this.
Malicious, this is the way I had it set up to start with (positives connected together via Redarc isolator and negative of aux connected to chassis at the same connection as the battery) and yes it did charge the aux battery, but only when the ECU decided that the alternator should kick in i.e. not very often.
By disconnecting the hall effect sensor at the -ve terminal the alternator is running all the time, and so far working a charm.
Cheers
Jas
By disconnecting the hall effect sensor at the -ve terminal the alternator is running all the time, and so far working a charm.
Cheers
Jas
Malicious
Member
Hi Jas,
What I mean is the aux batt negative must go to the main batt neg terminal , not to any chassis point ,then power circuits then connect to chassis points, this is so all current would flow through the hall device from the batteries , will draw it up sometime
What I mean is the aux batt negative must go to the main batt neg terminal , not to any chassis point ,then power circuits then connect to chassis points, this is so all current would flow through the hall device from the batteries , will draw it up sometime
did it both ways and no difference....
from what I could work out the -ve cable runs through the hall sensor so connecting direct to the terminal just bypasses it for the current draw on that circuit making it worse.
Could be wrong though, happened once before
from what I could work out the -ve cable runs through the hall sensor so connecting direct to the terminal just bypasses it for the current draw on that circuit making it worse.
Could be wrong though, happened once before
Malicious
Member
Were there any other connections to the aux battery neg term?
Nope no other connections to the -ve, all circuits run direct from the redarc solenoid and the common chassis earth.
Everything works exactly as it should, you just gotta outsmart the smart alternator so it charges constantly.
Everything works exactly as it should, you just gotta outsmart the smart alternator so it charges constantly.
Linebacker
Member
Hey Tony, any chance of a pic or two of where you've mounted your CTEC??
Thanks muchly!!
Mashsam
Member
Green wire mod
Hi I disconected the green wire from the alternator (pulled the pin out of the plug at the white box near the ECU there a 3 green wires, it is the one closest to the battery) now sitting on 14volts plus all the time.
Hi I disconected the green wire from the alternator (pulled the pin out of the plug at the white box near the ECU there a 3 green wires, it is the one closest to the battery) now sitting on 14volts plus all the time.
Dave-D40
Member
Can you post some photos of the white box and the exact wire that needs to be disconnected.
This will be useful for many members.
What year and model Navara do you own.
Mashsam
Member
Currently at work. it is the box between the wiper washer and brake fluid and guess what it is black (sorry) its the plugs that a white. when you remove the Black cover there a only 3 green wires the 1 you want is closet to the battery unplug the plug and remove wire from the plug a bit tricky but does work, i put a srew cap over the exposed pin on the green wire to prevent any contact. Will send photos when i can.
I don't have a D250S in mine, I just know how it's done. I have the Ctek XS7000 which runs from mains power. I invert power in the tub to 240V, and share that 240V between the charger and the fridge.
(I had a Jaycar charger in there, but I've decided to use that in my shed and put my CTek in the tub).
Nakkers
Member
I have so far bought a Waeco CFX65 fridge an Exide AGM deep cycle ST27-105Ah battery and a Waeco 120 watt solar panel. I have the 2012 ST D40
and I want my dual battery to be removable from the car for when I'm camping lets say for a week to 3 weeks to put the fridge in the tent with some led lighting, hence the solar panel. I'm very confused with what to use in the car ? Eg; Ctek d250s with relay or something different any help would be greatly appreciated.
and I want my dual battery to be removable from the car for when I'm camping lets say for a week to 3 weeks to put the fridge in the tent with some led lighting, hence the solar panel. I'm very confused with what to use in the car ? Eg; Ctek d250s with relay or something different any help would be greatly appreciated.
75 GRC
Member
Nakkers,
If you want your virtual dual battery system, to stay the way it is, with your solar panel. I see no need to have a battery charger connected, just run 8 gauge wire, to wherever you are running your second battery, this will maintain the charge, while you are driving, and while you are camped up, your solar panel should be sufficient. It's no good throwing good money after something, that you already have, unless the solar panel you are running is not sufficient for the job. Waeco fridges are renowned for there low power consumption. Especially with the new models.
Take on board what I have said, but each to their own, I have no idea, how big your solar panel is. So I can't be to judge mental.
Hope my bit of input has helped you.
Cheers Geoff
YEP!GOT A V6 'BUT I LIKE TO CUSTOMISE.
If you want your virtual dual battery system, to stay the way it is, with your solar panel. I see no need to have a battery charger connected, just run 8 gauge wire, to wherever you are running your second battery, this will maintain the charge, while you are driving, and while you are camped up, your solar panel should be sufficient. It's no good throwing good money after something, that you already have, unless the solar panel you are running is not sufficient for the job. Waeco fridges are renowned for there low power consumption. Especially with the new models.
Take on board what I have said, but each to their own, I have no idea, how big your solar panel is. So I can't be to judge mental.
Hope my bit of input has helped you.
Cheers Geoff
YEP!GOT A V6 'BUT I LIKE TO CUSTOMISE.
Apparently the Waeco CFX65 draws an average of 1.9A for a 50W unit (according to Waeco's page on this fridge). BCF are claiming 0.85A on their page yet they say it's a 65W unit. Let's assume it's 2A to allow for errors and be done with it.
That's 48A in 24 hours. You won't use that much (night-time consumption is generally much lower than daytime). Your 120W solar panel will provide a useful 8A in full sun and in summer you can expect about 8 to 10 hours (let's say 9) of it - that's 72Ah that you can potentially recover (less any shade, cloud cover, dimwits throwing towels over it, morons kicking up mud doing circle work next to a campsite, or forgetful campers that unplug it to move it and get distracted by THAT BABE OH MY GOD SHE'S ... where was I?
In other words, the solar panel is more than enough for the fridge. LED lighting generally consumes SFA amps so unless you're setting up 250 light strips trying to spell "HELLO" for the guys on the space station, I'd focus on the fridge. Besides, the lights are really only on for 4-5 hours at the most.
Charger: the D250S is a great unit and would do the job while you're driving. Do you need it? Not if you have the solar panel up on the roof. It's an expense you don't NEED to make if you're roof-mounting the panel. It'll be simple and perfectly portable. Anderson plugs up on the roof so that the cable to the roof can be secured to the canopy. Run the cable into the tub to more anderson plugs. Unplug, carry out to the tent, plug in again.
