Late 2010 D40 Dual Battery System

[Nakkers]

Thanks for the replies I have some thinking to do. I guess I'm trying to make my set up suitable for,
1. Portable to use with Solar panel (fridge in tent) for a few weeks stay.

2. Touring where fridge will stay in the tub. With this I do have a 1200mm roof basket to mount, but I think this may have a swag and other bits and pieces on it meaning I don't think I could fit the solar panel (they are a fair size) on the roof.
So what will work best ?, and is it possible to
list out how i would connect this all up as in cable thickness fuse sizes and where to put them. I'm pretty handy but need to know the right way to install.

 

[bods]

Going by the way you want to do it, I'd put the battery in a box with the ctek mounted inside the lid probably. A couple of Anderson plugs on the outside, 1 for the car input and 1 for the solar input. Maybe on opposite sides so they don't get mixed up... Then have an Anderson plug inside the car for the alternator input and one on the end of the solar panel wiring for when its out of the car.

Can't get much simpler than that I don't think…

 

[Old.Tony]

As above, it's a good way to do it and keep it portable.

Cable sizes - you can use smaller stuff inside the box, but the run out to the solar panel should be 8Ga cable (21sq mm) so you don't get too much voltage drop and the run from the battery to the rear should be the same.

Fuses: anywhere immediately off a power source. Just think of it like this: if you have a battery and want to run a cable from it, connect a fuse then the cable. You'll never make a mistake if you think like that. Just make sure the fuse will cater for the load: use a 10A for your fridge, a 40A for the charger, and a 40A fuse up front on the cable run heading to the tub.

 

[Nakkers]

You guys are a wealth of information thank you so much, love this forum!

 

[bods]

Instead of fuses you could use breakers. For the higher amperage stuff that is... Either manual or auto reset breakers will work fine. I have a manual breaker under the bonnet of mine on the power feed to the tub

 

[Old.Tony]

Auto resetting breakers are excellent. If you're running power from the main battery to the tub, strongly consider either passing the power through an ignition-activated 60A relay (horn relay works well) or a voltage-sensitive relay (VSR) to avoid the auxiliary system draining your cranker.

 

[Malicious]

Noticed jaycar now stock a nice 150a relay and some new fuse holders with high current bolt in fuses

 

[Old.Tony]

Bloody hell that's a good relay to get. And it's $14.95 (as of today), click here to see it. I was suggesting this one - it's $8.95 and would do the job, but given the choice I'd shell out the extra bucks and get the 150A jobbie too, because all the relay is doing is switching the power on - it's NOT a fuse, so bigger = better.

 

[Malicious]

SF1980 is the cat number of the fuse holder I grabbed for the primary for my aux circuits , just starting with the front then it'll be on to the tub, all power for any add on will come through it

 

[Nakkers]

Auto resetting breakers are excellent. If you're running power from the main battery to the tub, strongly consider either passing the power through an ignition-activated 60A relay (horn relay works well) or a voltage-sensitive relay (VSR) to avoid the auxiliary system draining your cranker.

There is a relay in the Ctek charger which I believe also isolates the cranker if you look half way down the ad there is a diagram. Will this be sufficient?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400359722671?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

[Old.Tony]

The idea behind the relay is so that power is only supplied to the rear when the engine is running. The C-Tek can't make that decision because apart from input voltage, it has no means of telling whether or not you're running the engine.

It's easy enough to do (info is for readers who don't know). Relays have 4 important connections on the bottom, with standard numbers on it. Here's how they connect (always):

Pin 85 - to the positive power that you're switching from. This could be the high beam light if the relay is providing juice to driving lights, or in your case, any ignition-on source you can find in the IPDM/ER.

Pin 86 - to any good earth. Once this is connected, the relay will switch on when power is applied to pin 85.

Pin 30 - connected directly (via a fuse) to the positive battery terminal.

Pin 87 - this is the relay's output. Pins 85&86 activate the relay and when it's on, power flows from pin 30 to this pin, so you'd connect pin 87 to the cable running to the rear. No need for a fuse here - you've already fused it by fusing the cable from the battery to pin 30.

 

[boostin_7]

Is there any difference between getting power for the ctek from the battery terminals vs the alternator?

 

[Malicious]

Is there any difference between getting power for the ctek from the battery terminals vs the alternator?

As long as it's the main battery no.

 

[boostin_7]

Ok cool, ive already ran a 50amp fused cable from the main battry to the tub so Its good to know I can use this for a dc dc charger later on.

 

[Linebacker]

Bloody hell that's a good relay to get. And it's $14.95 (as of today), click here to see it. I was suggesting this one - it's $8.95 and would do the job, but given the choice I'd shell out the extra bucks and get the 150A jobbie too, because all the relay is doing is switching the power on - it's NOT a fuse, so bigger = better.

Any suggestions on how to attach 8Ga wire to this relay??

 

[Old.Tony]

I used a yellow connector with the professional crimper. To fit the wire in, I clipped 3 of the strand sections. I had to use a Stanley knife to trim a little off the insulator to fit inside the yellow plastic jacket.

 

[Linebacker]

I used a yellow connector with the professional crimper. To fit the wire in, I clipped 3 of the strand sections. I had to use a Stanley knife to trim a little off the insulator to fit inside the yellow plastic jacket.

Cheers Tony - guess I'll start with terminating that end 1st before running any cables (I'll end up 10mm short if I run them then strip & crimp til I'm satisfied )

 

[rsgooch]

FYI,
I have that ctek charger and it is nice piece of kit. Mine did not come with the relay, but my battery pak has a manual disconnect. I did not realize that the charger would continue to run and I was lucky enough to see the charge light just barely visible when the Nav was turned off. Now I have to remember to turn the switch on the battery box.

I am now going to install the relay in line with the power coming from the battery to completely isolate that when the car is turned off and I forget to flip that switch.

Thanks! Tony I did not even think about doing that.

 

[silvernavman]

Hi all, I was running a narva vsr but due to the smart alternator it wasn't working as required and never charged the second battery properly. As the car is only 3 months old and obviously still under warranty, I wasn't prepared to do the green wire chop. Didn't want to spend the dollars on a DC DC charger.. Went to home of 12 volt in Adelaide where they make these ignition isolators which supposedly fix the problem.. It's all wired in, next weekend will tell me if it works as required!!

http://www.homeof12volt.com/shop/in...0?ps_session=8d2b08ad1852fd7c0c6fcc1d31be367d

Edit... Doesn't appear to work

 

[silvernavman]

Currently at work. it is the box between the wiper washer and brake fluid and guess what it is black (sorry) its the plugs that a white. when you remove the Black cover there a only 3 green wires the 1 you want is closet to the battery unplug the plug and remove wire from the plug a bit tricky but does work, i put a srew cap over the exposed pin on the green wire to prevent any contact. Will send photos when i can.

Hi mate, did you get the chance to take a photo yet? Cheers