Losing control

[CarlJT]

need EXACT model number of the tire. there can be two different model tires for that size. (that size doesn't show up on their web site.)

Unsure model number
https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/90546/yokohama-g015-geolandar-all-terrain

 

[Been a while]

Where to find new calipers?
Just need repair kit?

I actually had a guy lined up to import 10 pairs at one stage, you don't need to do that to still find a cheap set though.. look for Japan made ones or buy genuine through parts importers..

400000ks you can bet pistons have lost thier coatings depends on what you want to do with it, but I'd remove and disassemble the calipers first, you may be lucky and get away with a clean and a seal kit.. maybe new pins etc... a set of pistons! Etc

 

[Been a while]

Send me your VIN, and I'll do a parts check and price for you....

 

[[email protected]]

good recomendations above . take your front wheels off, examine pads they should all be fairly evenly worn..with twin piston set up one piston will always engae before the other ,then if not siezed the other catches up . From my experiance if pulling to left, right, side is not engaging properly ( eitherside may have oil contamination)or left pad is worn, metal to metal will grab it would cause a dull grind. (left rear pads grabing may swing your front around in slippery conditions) i have done 270000kls on my d22 1998 have had brake pistons sieze twice, symptons were pedal was harder to engage uneven braking pulling to one side , braking was terrible(, can be a bugger freeing pistons ) i do go through 20 inch deep creek often i remove callipers and use a 10mm board between pads to stop piston poping out while with motor running i pump the brake pedal to release stuck piston.mine have synthetic pistons which swell.. the pistons do foul up and the square section ring wil get gunked up or rounded at edges causing the piston not to retract enough,., although this usually causes premature wear on one pad.,done this 2 times already. at 230th i replace the rear drums. those dam adjusters keep fouling up tried lubing them with antiseize , they have the self ajusting cable on them which wont work,, i think you drive in reverse and pull the hand brake hard, rear pads are supposed to readjust .. to test the abs , the pedal will continualy kick back quite hard on you when you try to lock the brakes , I have polished pistons before on lathe using fine linishing strips(emery) i always find reasembly a pain end up with most grease on my hands, best carried out by brake specialist instruct them to pull pistons out and fit new kits,

 

[Been a while]

I think I had ten sets of o.e.m ones from Japan organised at about $200 a pair! Look on flea bay google etc for complete caliper sets, try for the Japan made ones!
If your doing the work yourself and have little experience in brakes, this is the safest bet.. If you're good on the tools and know exactly what you are doing then it may be cheaper to rebuild and service..

Grab your VIN, jump on sites like Partsouq Amayama etc and get a rough idea of parts cost.. 400000000000ks and never touched, I'd say pull them apart and see whats going on - after you know if it is actually this issue.. do a dirt road skid test and measure the marks... do it numerous times and you'll get an idea of whats going on, IF it is the brakes...
Jack it up and give a shake test, check your front end U and L.C.A's, wheel bearings etc for free play/movement..first, before your skid test..

Ok, I see my posts are removed, VIN request I'm guessing lol.... yeah , I'm planning to steal his Ute admin ffs...


have fun

 

[Been a while]

good recomendations above . take your front wheels off, examine pads they should all be fairly evenly worn..with twin piston set up one piston will always engae before the other ,then if not siezed the other catches up . From my experiance if pulling to left, right, side is not engaging properly ( eitherside may have oil contamination)or left pad is worn, metal to metal will grab it would cause a dull grind. (left rear pads grabing may swing your front around in slippery conditions) i have done 270000kls on my d22 1998 have had brake pistons sieze twice, symptons were pedal was harder to engage uneven braking pulling to one side , braking was terrible(, can be a bugger freeing pistons ) i do go through 20 inch deep creek often i remove callipers and use a 10mm board between pads to stop piston poping out while with motor running i pump the brake pedal to release stuck piston.mine have synthetic pistons which swell.. the pistons do foul up and the square section ring wil get gunked up or rounded at edges causing the piston not to retract enough,., although this usually causes premature wear on one pad.,done this 2 times already. at 230th i replace the rear drums. those dam adjusters keep fouling up tried lubing them with antiseize , they have the self ajusting cable on them which wont work,, i think you drive in reverse and pull the hand brake hard, rear pads are supposed to readjust .. to test the abs , the pedal will continualy kick back quite hard on you when you try to lock the brakes , I have polished pistons before on lathe using fine linishing strips(emery) i always find reasembly a pain end up with most grease on my hands, best carried out by brake specialist instruct them to pull pistons out and fit new kits,

Yeah, there's something about brake fluid huh I'm like a scientist using the crap lol I hate the stuff...

 

[CarlJT]

Yeah, there's something about brake fluid huh I'm like a scientist using the crap lol I hate the stuff...

Will post vin. Brake pads, and get results from brake test when home this evening.. have seen some repair kits with seals piston etc, can't find full new caliper anywhere. Are they same as on d22 4x2?

 

[CarlJT]

.

 

[Been a while]

Careful purchasing complete calipers, some are of a good cast and materials, some not! You need genuine, o.e.m replacement not aftermarket !

Regarding the 4x4 and 2x4, yes and NO... it depends on what your VIN check states, the 4x4 calipers are used on A LOT of different makes and models as does the 4x2 caliper ...
But it's your VIN and what corresponds with that number regarding all brake parts that is the concern here, all must match from master cylinder to slaves, to boosters, proportional valves etc regarding that VIN....
A 4x2 caliper may look the same, fit the same and take the same pads BUT! It may have smaller pistons bores etc and not match the pressure from the master cylinder and booster, they may work fine untill you tow or work your way down a hill and boil... They may work unproportionally to the rear, and that's always fun eh....

You can do this, grab your VIN and start off with Partsouq, You won't find parts by googling blah blah blah, you need part numbers! And to find the right part numbers to suit your braking system you need your VIN...

Good luck

 

[Been a while]

.

Yup, that's a caliper and a piston...

 

[CarlJT]

Yup, that's a caliper and a piston...

Brake test - front seem even, same length of mark,
Rear less imprint than front. Only lh side made mark.

Taking off brakes noticed left side passenger side had 4 groves on inner side of pad and rotor look like 4 rocks making their path in-between. Not sure what that means.
Rest pads smooth. Not much to not however some width end have sloped grove as in photo. Have attached photo

Can you recommend a kit? eBay or something that can receive in nz
Vin JN1CNUD22A0020941

 

[[email protected]]

that disc and corresponding pad has some serious groves. machining disc will probably make it unroadworthy needs to much off it. if pad ware is sloped one piston is malfunctioning. new or machined discs is first step. second pop the pistons out put pads back in and 10mm spacer block start engine and keep pumping pedal until all 4 have moved if any are permantly stuck best to ge new callipers check you have enough fluid in reservoir
replace spacer with thinner one engage brakes until pistons come out. once 1st piston is out you will lose all oil..pull the rest out manually.. if you have metal pistons & are not badly pitted,they can be high polished as i described above , new parts is best way to go , y take discs to clutch and brake workshop they can measure and machine if its possible. dont forget dont use old pads if your callipers are servicable
ebay sponsored measure yours diameter and centre hole important 6 studs etc : FOR NISSAN Navara D22 4WD 277mm 00-03 FRONT SLOTTED DRILLED Disc Rotors & Pads: contact them with your vin
: Front Brake Caliper Repair Kit For Nissan Truck D22 (1997 : (rubbers for pistons) for new calipers search with part numbers

 

[[email protected]]

onlineautoparts.com.au contact them, they may have to fit your car

new discs and pads and ya ok to go

 

[tweak'e]

Brake test - front seem even, same length of mark,
Rear less imprint than front. Only lh side made mark.

Taking off brakes noticed left side passenger side had 4 groves on inner side of pad and rotor look like 4 rocks making their path in-between. Not sure what that means.
Rest pads smooth. Not much to not however some width end have sloped grove as in photo. Have attached photo

Can you recommend a kit? eBay or something that can receive in nz
Vin JN1CNUD22A0020941

those pads look new.
the grooves are not to bad. tho wearing on one end more than the other. check the slide pins. lube with RUBBER grease.
i don't see anything that would cause lockup or pulling.
pull the rears off and check them. i would not be surprised if they are worn or out of adjustment. very common for the auto adjusters not to work.

 

[CarlJT]

I have a spare rotor so no worries there. Pistons seem okay??? No big burn mark, however rust all on inside? We're difficult to get out needed hammer/chisel. Brake fluid seems boilt, smells like burnt hydraulic fluid... AT contact between brake line and caliper inside was crusty...

 

[CarlJT]

those pads look new.
the grooves are not to bad. tho wearing on one end more than the other. check the slide pins. lube with RUBBER grease.
i don't see anything that would cause lockup or pulling.
pull the rears off and check them. i would not be surprised if they are worn or out of adjustment. very common for the auto adjusters not to work.

Steps for readjusting rears?

 

[tweak'e]

Steps for readjusting rears?

check the pads are not to worn and also that the drum is not to worn. rear brakes will not work right even when adjusted if drum is worn.
adjusting is simply pop the cover on the back, click over the adjustment wheel with a small flat blade screwdriver until the tire stops turning (pads contact the drum), then back off the adjuster one click. (need a second screwdriver to lift the arm off the adjuster).
for better instructions check websites, drum brakes are almost all the same.

if rear brakes don't work, then you tend to have a very soft pedal then the fronts grab. that most certainly can throw a car sideways in low grip situations.

edit; the other issue with utes is the brake proportioning valve. that limits rear braking when you have no load.

 

[CarlJT]

check the pads are not to worn and also that the drum is not to worn. rear brakes will not work right even when adjusted if drum is worn.
adjusting is simply pop the cover on the back, click over the adjustment wheel with a small flat blade screwdriver until the tire stops turning (pads contact the drum), then back off the adjuster one click. (need a second screwdriver to lift the arm off the adjuster).
for better instructions check websites, drum brakes are almost all the same.

if rear brakes don't work, then you tend to have a very soft pedal then the fronts grab. that most certainly can throw a car sideways in low grip situations.

edit; the other issue with utes is the brake proportioning valve. that limits rear braking when you have no load.

Do springs, hardware need replacing or usually just shoes?

 

[CarlJT]

Rear brake
Lh a bit more stiff to remove..
Adjustment wheel on lh worn. Unsure if clicking around...

 

[[email protected]]

springs would be okey , i always undo adjusters and put anti sieze on threads, pistons contact to pad surface needs carfully cleaned, i would reuse .if one or two were hard to remove it would cause uneven braking. if the grove inside the calliper needs cleaning careful that you dont round off the grove edges .. ,if you have done those 400th klms then the drums i would definately replace (new pads)for reasons explained above,