Narva 225 wiring to rocker switches.

[Munnerz]

As the heading says had anyone cut and wired the stock switch from the Narva 225s wiring harness to a rocker switch. From memory there are 3 wires to the stock switch.
Just trying to get an idea before I cut my switch off and wire to a rocker switch so it looks better.
? Thanks

 

[Munnerz]

Well after trying to wire my rocker switch to the Narva 225 wiring harness.
I gave up after blowing a headlight fuse.
From what I figured out there are 3 wires,
Black is +12 (only when high beams on)
Red is Earth
White I have no friging idea.
All I could sus out it that when high beams on white it another earth.

And the switch pins are

Power
Dash light +(optional)
Acc
Ground
Ground (optional)

Any ideas?

 

[Old.Tony]

Sounds like it's been wired in backwards. Red is supposed to ALWAYS be positive, black negative. White could be anything and in this case I would suggest that these wires SHOULD be:

Red - positive power source (likely from the high beam circuit)
Black - earth for the switch's internal light
White - output to the driving light relay

And I would wire these up as:

Power - Red
Dash Light - White
Acc - White (yes, join these two)
Ground - Black
Ground - Black

Now if they've stuffed up and switched the red and black around, you have two choices: either continue with the way it's been done (but remember that it's backward) or rewire the lot properly. If you're going to continue, you just swap red for black in the above.

 

[Munnerz]

Sounds like it's been wired in backwards. Red is supposed to ALWAYS be positive, black negative. White could be anything and in this case I would suggest that these wires SHOULD be:

Red - positive power source (likely from the high beam circuit)
Black - earth for the switch's internal light
White - output to the driving light relay

And I would wire these up as:

Power - Red
Dash Light - White
Acc - White (yes, join these two)
Ground - Black
Ground - Black



Now if they've stuffed up and switched the red and black around, you have two choices: either continue with the way it's been done (but remember that it's backward) or rewire the lot properly. If you're going to continue, you just swap red for black in the above.

Thanks for the insight tony however, the wiring harness is all plug and play, you really can't fxxk it up, it has one of those little polarity boxes were you can switch between pos and neg switching vehicles.
I was thinking maybe acc and power need to be connected?

 

[Old.Tony]

Power will be the power coming in, and Acc will be the switched power going out to the accessory, so joining them together just leaves the switch permanently on.

From your findings (disregarding anything I've posted above for the moment), the correct wiring would seem to be:

Black is +12 (only when high beams on)
Red is Earth
White I have no friging idea.
All I could sus out it that when high beams on white it another earth.

And the switch pins are

Power - Black
Dash light +(optional) - White
Acc - White
Ground - Red
Ground (optional) - Red

Doesn't gel well for me, I'm too accustomed to red = positive, black = negative.

 

[nathand22]

I have installed a narva rocker switch with my 225's and all i did was put the red, white, and black onto the back of the rocker switch following the diagram it came with and away it went.

However when i first ran the wires into the cab i pulled apart a plug so i could fit just the wires through the fire wall, anyway i ended up swapping two of the wires when i put them back in the plug itself and blew the headlight fuse.

My point is maybe check the wires back down the line at the positive/negative switch box, maybe ok but worth a look?

 

[Munnerz]

I have installed a narva rocker switch with my 225's and all i did was put the red, white, and black onto the back of the rocker switch following the diagram it came with and away it went.

However when i first ran the wires into the cab i pulled apart a plug so i could fit just the wires through the fire wall, anyway i ended up swapping two of the wires when i put them back in the plug itself and blew the headlight fuse.

My point is maybe check the wires back down the line at the positive/negative switch box, maybe ok but worth a look?

Wow wish it was that easy for me lol. How many tabs does your rocker have Nath outta curiosity?

 

[Munnerz]

Power will be the power coming in, and Acc will be the switched power going out to the accessory, so joining them together just leaves the switch permanently on.

From your findings (disregarding anything I've posted above for the moment), the correct wiring would seem to be:



Doesn't gel well for me, I'm too accustomed to red = positive, black = negative.

Yeah I don't like it either Tony red as earth and black as pos is just asking for trouble, however I'm gunna leave it for now though.

 

[nathand22]

Wow wish it was that easy for me lol. How many tabs does your rocker have Nath outta curiosity?

4 pins on the back of the switch, i cut off the wires from the back of the stock button style switch and crimped on the matching style to the new rocker switch.

 

[Munnerz]

4 pins on the back of the switch, i cut off the wires from the back of the stock button style switch and crimped on the matching style to the new rocker switch.

Yeah it's to hard to tell from just saying at I suppose, don't suppose you wanna take a photo of the wiring at the back do ya lol?
All good if ya can't mate, cheers for the help thus far.

 

[baitfish]

Hey Munnerz

I've had nothing to do with the set up your talking about, but does the original switch have a led indicator in it? if it does, i reckon that's why you'll have a negative wire in the switching set up.

the switch will have power on one side (most likely coming from the high beam circuit), when you turn the switch on it'll put power to the indicator light, plus the obvious power back to the relay, the extra tab/wire will be for the return path of the indicator light.

don't know if that helps at all mate, but that's how the switches in my ute work.

 

[Munnerz]

Hey Munnerz

I've had nothing to do with the set up your talking about, but does the original switch have a led indicator in it? if it does, i reckon that's why you'll have a negative wire in the switching set up.

the switch will have power on one side (most likely coming from the high beam circuit), when you turn the switch on it'll put power to the indicator light, plus the obvious power back to the relay, the extra tab/wire will be for the return path of the indicator light.

don't know if that helps at all mate, but that's how the switches in my ute work.

Yeah cheers baitfish the original switch has 2 LEDs red for off and blue for on.
I was also thinking something like that. Just don't wanna blow any more fuses or perhaps something else screwing with it. Was hoping someone else had done the same as what I wanna do.

 

[baitfish]

well try confirming which wire is the earth first, if you have a multimeter, set it to the lowest ohm setting, attach one to a good grounding point and touch each wire. With any luck only one should show a reading to ground, the other two open circuit.

If that works mate it should be just a matter of connecting the remaining two wires across the normally open contacts on the new switch. does the new switch have a indicator light?

 

[baitfish]

i was just thinking when you are testing for the ground wire, you might get one with a low ohm reading, and the other with a slightly higher ohm reading. the one with the higher ohm reading would most likely be caused by the reading going through the wire, through the coil of the relay to ground.

if i was you i would test it like this;

strip all three wires back slightly to expose some conductor
place them so they are not touching each other, or touching any ground reference

take your multimeter and set it to the VDC setting
turn your high beam on (in my ute i do not have to have the car on)
test each wire until you find battery voltage. turn the high beams off and the voltage should be 0. mark this wire supply, 12v+ or line

next test the remaining two wires to ground with the multimeter set to ohms and find which one has the lowest reading. might be something like .5ohms depending on run length and quality of ground reference. mark this cable as negative or ground as you please.

test the last wire with ohms again, hopefully it should read a higher ohm reading because it has the coil in the circuit to ground. mark this positive out, load, trigger or whatever helps you remember what it does. (i just just metered a 40a oex relay coil and it was 80.9ohms)

If it meters out like that mate you should just be able to put the 12v+ to one side of the switch and the load on the normally open side of the switch. if the new switch has no indicator light, just tape up the ground cable and tuck it away.

i'm only assuming its all 12v+ positive switch as well mate, other wise it'll be the other way around.

I'm not sure of your back ground or skill set mate, so I'm just trying to put it easy as possible just encase you've never dealt with this kind of thing before.

Best of luck and let us know how you get on!

 

[Munnerz]

i was just thinking when you are testing for the ground wire, you might get one with a low ohm reading, and the other with a slightly higher ohm reading. the one with the higher ohm reading would most likely be caused by the reading going through the wire, through the coil of the relay to ground.

if i was you i would test it like this;

strip all three wires back slightly to expose some conductor
place them so they are not touching each other, or touching any ground reference

take your multimeter and set it to the VDC setting
turn your high beam on (in my ute i do not have to have the car on)
test each wire until you find battery voltage. turn the high beams off and the voltage should be 0. mark this wire supply, 12v+ or line

next test the remaining two wires to ground with the multimeter set to ohms and find which one has the lowest reading. might be something like .5ohms depending on run length and quality of ground reference. mark this cable as negative or ground as you please.

test the last wire with ohms again, hopefully it should read a higher ohm reading because it has the coil in the circuit to ground. mark this positive out, load, trigger or whatever helps you remember what it does. (i just just metered a 40a oex relay coil and it was 80.9ohms)

If it meters out like that mate you should just be able to put the 12v+ to one side of the switch and the load on the normally open side of the switch. if the new switch has no indicator light, just tape up the ground cable and tuck it away.

i'm only assuming its all 12v+ positive switch as well mate, other wise it'll be the other way around.

I'm not sure of your back ground or skill set mate, so I'm just trying to put it easy as possible just encase you've never dealt with this kind of thing before.

Best of luck and let us know how you get on!

That's fine baitfish thanks for the insight I'm a little embarresed to say but I'm actually an electronics tech, just have next to no auto elec experience, more radios, amps etc.
As you can imagine I have elec knowledge know my way around a DMM and did exactly as you wrote found the 12 supply, the ground and, the obvious o/p.
I'm going to have another look on the w.e and see what I can figure out.
I may have blown the fuse earlier then I thought, cheers for the extra set of insight always good to hear your findings being the same as someone else
Cheers

 

[baitfish]

All good mate, I'm a elecky/instrument fitter myself and still scratch my head at some of the ways auto sparkies set stuff up! Not saying its wrong, just goes against the grain of how i would go about it!

 

[Vigilante]

Could buy the pre-wired rocker switch from Narva and replace that whole section of the loom... P/N 74414

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/driving-light-harness

 

[10navst]

I got a narva rocker switch for my spotties, it had 5 connectors on the back. 2xnegatives (1 for the park light and 1 for when the spotties are active) 1 for trigger wire, 1for relay 12v and 1 for relay earth.
Hope that helps you out.

 

[bennyb]

hey if you haven't fixed it up yet, i chopped off the narva switch and wired a rocker switch to it. can't remember which wire is which but i can take a photo if you want? cheers, ben.

 

[Munnerz]

hey if you haven't fixed it up yet, i chopped off the narva switch and wired a rocker switch to it. can't remember which wire is which but i can take a photo if you want? cheers, ben.

Yeah mate that would be great, cheers