Navara Foglight wiring

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Speaking about cops, when i was 18 and driving my charger around, it was and still is a hot looking piece of machinery and often reffered to as cop bait, my point is i drove the car with respect, i never got a fine or done anything stupid to get attraction from the police. One day my dad picked me up from the train station with the charger and a policeman pulled him over on the way to the train station, asked for his licence and told him 'this isnt your car, what are you doing driving it?' Everything worked out fine cos its my dad and my car but i think it goes to show that maybe police remember certain noticable cars and remember the driving style of that person and/or the person driving( which happened in this instance), or it could just be a quick check of the number plate on the computer and if you have a clean record your sweet with the police.
 
Speaking about cops, when i was 18 and driving my charger around, it was and still is a hot looking piece of machinery and often reffered to as cop bait, my point is i drove the car with respect, i never got a fine or done anything stupid to get attraction from the police. One day my dad picked me up from the train station with the charger and a policeman pulled him over on the way to the train station, asked for his licence and told him 'this isnt your car, what are you doing driving it?' Everything worked out fine cos its my dad and my car but i think it goes to show that maybe police remember certain noticable cars and remember the driving style of that person and/or the person driving( which happened in this instance), or it could just be a quick check of the number plate on the computer and if you have a clean record your sweet with the police.

That goes both ways, some coppers also remember shitboxes. A mate of mine was being a dickhead one day in his Corolla and drove past a copper on the side of the road who was busy booking someone else revving the (tiny) engine and tooting the horn. 3 days later he was heading home from work and sure enough the same copper saw him, followed him and waited until he found something he could pick on then pulled him over.

Copper was honest enough (or sly enough) to tell him if he hadn't been a dickhead several days previous chances are he wouldn't have got the ticket for a faulty brake light. Living in small towns sometimes backfires when the coppers don't have to wait long before they see you on the road again
 
That was quite petty of the copper though. The copper should have told him to stop when he was blowing the horn - that's a bookable offense in NSW, at least.

It's really only petty because he admitted to it. The copper wasn't in a position to pull him over in the first instance and while he morally should have let it go as the one that got away he chose a more opportune time to pull the guy over after following behind him and noticing a problem. He was never booked for the first incident only for the brake light but it was a friendly warning that acting like a dickhead will more than likely come back to haunt you at a later date.

I have no problem with what the copper did, had he tried booking my mate for the first incident then I'd consider it a low act but reminding people that someone could be watching at all times and that people remember such things is something I think all idiots need in this day and age
 
I was in a mate's car one night a few years ago, and it is a 800HP R31 skyline (cop bait if ever there was), and he swerved at this cat that was in the other lane (to scare the cat more than anything). The next day I was with him and we got pulled over by the po-po for a "random licence check" as they call it in QLD (basically an excuse for them to go over any young bloke's car looking for illegal modifications), and as the female copper was saying her goodbyes after it was all finished, she added "and next time there's an animal on the road, don't swerve at it!" she was off duty driving behind us. Was a good lesson for me, just because there isn't a police car around doesn't mean the police aren't watching...
 
I think it depends on the individual luminaire/vehicle. The ones on my car are fine, I actually parked it on the road and drove towards it in my girlfriend's Corolla. They aren't glarey at all. The reflectors have adjustable beam tilt which I have aimed down as low as possible (which is also the most practical for fog) and lamps are only 35w.

To me there seems to be two things. Firstly there is the quality fog lights that have a well engineered light pattern. Secondly there is the wanker lights that manufacturers pass off as fog lights.

The wanker lights are very poorly engineered and spray light where it is not needed and in fact are a danger to oncoming traffic night or day. Unfortunately you are caught up in legislation designed to combat these wankers.
 
If the ecu controls the foglights, can it be re-programmed to operate them as driving lights then driving lights can be fit there? Loads more useful
 
Apart from their size making them almost useless as a set of driving lights who'd want to mount driving lights that low anyway. The theory I've always worked by is fog lights as low as possible to try and get under the fog and driving lights as high as possible to get the distance, making the driving lights lower than the headlights seems stupid but each to their own I guess.
 
Dont have a bull bar and dont want to drill holes everywhere, if existing wiring could be used etc would be a good way around so dont need bodgy relays in there
 
I agree, but I don't think it's got so much to do with getting under the fog, but more to do with shining the light on the road rather than straight out into the fog. either way, keep them low shine them low.

I tried various setting with my foglights, honestly, they won't be any good as driving lights. Best bet is to mount some driving lights beside the number plate, or behind the grill if you don't want to mount them on the bumper. Or buy a nudge bar and a set of driving lights.
You could mount them on the rear sports bar too I guess, not really my taste but each to their own...
 
You could mount them on the rear sports bar too I guess, not really my taste but each to their own...

As stated in other threads you should be aware that in some states doing this without modifying the sports bar itself is illegal as is having an odd number of lights no matter how they are connected. Doesn;t mean it can't be done though.
 
I have a rhino rack type of ladder bar basically right above my front door, been thinking of putting 4 lightforce 140's on it, want to keep lights small as it is used for ladders.
Is the standard alternator ok for the extra lights?
 
Is the standard alternator ok for the extra lights?

Add up the power consumption. Say 200 watts for your ECU, dash, interior lights - call it 10 amps to round it off. Say another 10 amps for headlights (60W each) and call it another 5 amps for other lights just to be on the safe side. Tack on about 20A for the thermal fan and other gizmos in the engine bay. Total = 45Amps.

Your alternator should be able to pump 100Amps at full kilt, say about 80A at normal speeds. That leaves you 35A if you don't care to charge the battery much, so you could have about 4 driving lights (=32A @ 100Watts each).

All figures are approximate and in no way resemble next week's Ozlotto numbers.
 
Is the standard alternator ok for the extra lights?

I agree with Tony, add it all up and work out how much you need that way you know for sure.

I'm sure the standard alternator will be fine however make sure you check your alternator first. When I was looking several different dealers told me Nav's have anything from 60Amp to 120Amp alternators in them but none of them knew exactly without checking with their workshops first. I don't know if the confusion was because Thai trucks have a different alternator to Spain trucks or what the deal was (and it's too easy to blame idiot salesman again) but at the time my local dealers didn't seem to have the answer handy to them.

Given that yours is a Kingcab maybe they do have a different size alternator however I still don't think it would be an issue.
 
Welcome, Kicibimbo. These should be fairly easy to manage:

* Mount the spotlights

* Run the solid-black-coloured wire to negative or vehicle body

* Run the other wire through to a 30A "SPST" 4-pole automotive relay

* Connect the earth of the relay to negative/body.

* Connect the positive input through a 30A fuse to the battery itself.

* Connect a decent gauge wire (rated at 20A) with a crimp joiner (perhaps) to the high beam line to one of your headlights, call this Wire 1

* Connect another wire (same type as Wire 1) to the last point on the relay, call this Wire 2

* Run Wire 1 and Wire 2 inside the cabin and connect them to a switch for your driving lights

Now, when you turn that switch on and turn on your high beam, your relay should activate the driving lights.

NEVER try to power the driving lights directly from the high beam lines, you'll overload the light circuit.

ALWAYS use a fuse in the line from the battery to the relay. Yes the relay will offer some protection but a 30A relay won't actually destroy itself immediately if you pump 50A through it. The fuse will let go much faster and protect everything, preventing fires.

The relay can be bought from Supercheap, click here.

Use an in-line blade fuse so they match the rest of the fuses in your vehicle, like this one.

If you're still concerned about it, seek help. There are people from this forum all over the country and some are quite adept at this sort of thing.
 

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