Rear E Locker Install

[dilmah]

Started my E locker install this afternoon, will be posting pics tomorrow but for now here is a list of tools you will need:

Trolley Jack
2 x Car stands
Socket set
Impact wrench/rattle gun (optional but saves time)
Impact sockets (optional)
Dial Indicator and magnetic stand
Torque Wrench (optional)
Pry bar/flat head screw drivers
Drill and 6mm - 12mm drill bit
Hammer/mallet
Workshop press (optional)
Various Screwdrivers
Workshop manual
LSD Diff oil
Oil bucket/pan
Oil pump


The E Lockers comes with these components:
E Locker unit
Complete wiring harness
Conduit
Cable Ties
Instructions

I Strongly recommend replacing the carrier bearings while the diff centre is out, also if you gears are showing signs of wear Id recommend replacing these aswell as pinion bearings and pinion oil seal.

 

[dilmah]

Step 1 Put Nav on stands and remove tires

I just put my trolley jack under the rear diff, jacked it up and removed my 33's.
I then lowered it onto the stands as the stands were not tall enough to keep the tires off the ground. You will need to remove the tires anyway to pull the axles out later on.

 

[dilmah]

Step 2 Drop diff oil

Using a 1/2 in wrench undo the diff sump and drain diff oil into a pan/bucket. I had to use the impact wrench as mine was tight, a breaker bar and mallet can also be handy if it is tight. Allow 5 minutes for oil to completely drain.

 

[gazza414]

step 3..get outa bed mate and back into it

 

[dilmah]

Hey its a Saturday and I worked night shift last night, ill go do some now and post pics later

 

[dilmah]

Step 3 Remove Brake drum

The drums should just pull off. I had to give them a tap with the gimpy hammer to loosen them up. They should come off prett easy

 

[dilmah]

Step 4 Remove Axle

Firstly, you have to disconnect the brake lines. I did this at the brake splitter end as I had replaced the brake line with Braided line earlier in the week and I knew the bolts would come off easy. I strongly recommend using a Flare nut wrench to loosen brake bolts as they tend to burr easily. The bolts should be 10mm.

Secondly, remove ABS sensor with a 12mm socket/spanner. This one wasnt too tight and should come out easily. pull sensor out and tuck it out the way so it doesnt get damaged.

Thirdly, remove handbrake cable. I just took the split pin out and pulled the pin out as this was the easiest option.

Fourthly, unbolt the axle from the axle housing. There should be 4 x 17mm bolts. They will be tight so a spray with the WD-40 and using a 1/2 braker bar with a 17mm socket on the end.

Finally, tap on the back of the brake housing with a gimpy to break the seal and pull the axle out.

Repeat for the other side.

 

[dilmah]

Step 5 Axles out

The axles will com out fairly easy, I had to rotate mine slightly to get them out with the brake lines on. Once out I gave the brake drums a clean as they were full of dry mud and crap. I also wiped out the axle housing as there was dirt in there and applied fresh grease.

 

[dilmah]

Step 6 Measure ring gear backlash

I set up my dial indicator perpendicular to one of the ring gear faces and rocked the diff centre backwards and forwards. Backlash was 0.06mm. The workshop manual recommends a backlash of 0.13 - 0.18mm. I then realise that this was measured with the tailshaft off but I did not bother removing it as I can account for this when reinstalling the diff centre. I didnt take a picture of this.

 

[dilmah]

Step 7 Removing diff centre

It was very easy to remove the diff centre, there are 4 x 17mm bolts holding 2 retainers in place. They came off very easy with the impact wrench. once the bolts are loose the diff practically fell out into my hands. Be extra careful not to get the retainers and shims mixed up as they have to go back into the same side they came out. The passengers side or the ring side of the diff will have 2 shims, a thick one and a thin one.

 

[dilmah]

Step 8 Unbolting ring gear from diff and bolting to E Locker

Before unbolting the ring gear I gave the diff a good wipe down with a rag to get some of the oil off it. Next I placed the diff on a bench and using my impact wrench undid the 12 x 17mm bolts holding the ring gear to the diff centre. These bolts were very tight and I think other people would struggle if they didnt have impact tools.

Once the bolts are undone the ring gear should fall off, if it doesnt tap the side of it with a rubber mallet.

To reinstall it on the E locker i had to tap it down into place using the rubber mallet, work around the gear every quater and slowly work it down and into place. Be sure to line the bolt holes up first.

I then put all the 17mm bolts back in finger tight then did them up to 150Nm using a torque wrench as per the Workshop Manual. I found that putting some round pipe in one of the side openings and then putting the pipe in a vice stopped the diff from rotating, allowing me to use 2 hands. Alternatively if you do not have a Torque wrench do these bolts up as tight as you can with a breaker bar. This should ensure they are around the 150Nm mark.

When bolting the ring to the E Locker do up the bolts in a cris cross pattern as you would do with a car tire. This ensures an even distribution of load across the whole gear.

 

[dilmah]

So far all of this has taken me 3 hours. Having impact tools will save you a lot of time as some of the bolts can be very tight. I do not recommend you try this unless you have a good mechanical knowlege and the correct tools as setting up the correct backlash and carrier bearing preload is critical to the life of you diff gears and bearings. I was quotes $500 for a drive in drive out install and I have spent close to that on tools, oils and bearings.

I strongly recommend replacing the carrier bearings when you do the E Locker install as it is cheap insurance. I will be purchasing new bearings on Monday morning and hope to have the whole thing finished by Tuesday afternoon. I will continue the write up once finished or more progress is made, please feel free to ask any questions

 

[dilmah]

Step 9 Putting new bearings on

Picked up the new bearings today. Cost me $90 each, not cheap!
Before installing them I put a smear of general purpose grease andoung the E Locker shaft to help the new bearing slide down. I then tapped the bearing on with the gimpy and put a chisel over the top and hammered it down. I found using the chisel help evenly distribute the force of the hammer over the whole bearing. A fat piece of wood would also do the same job. Alternatively if you had acess to a press this would be an easy job.

 

[dilmah]

Step 10 Drilling hole

I test fitted the E Locker with the bearings on in the diff first and decided where I was going to drill the 12mm hole. The instructions recommend a 11.5mm hole but I didnt have that sized drill bit so I made it 12mm.

I marked out the spot with some left over oil that was in the diff then drilled a 6mm pilot hole. I then slowly progressed up to a 8mm, a10mm and finally a 12mm

 

[dilmah]

Step 11 Putting everything back together

If you have got this far then you shouldn't need too much help to put everything back together.
Assemble the locker with the bearing cup on either side at the base of the diff. Test fit the locker assembly then remove, you will have to bend the retaining tabs up slightly to get the drivers side bearing cap to fit. Once this is done put the locker assembly in place, slide the drivers side shim in then put the backlash spacer in on the passengers side.

By now things will start to feel pretty tight, I had a few sets of custom shims machined to various thicknesses to obtain the desired preload. the stock ones were 2.2mm, my other sets were 2.0mm, 1.8mm and 1.6mm. I ended up using the 1.8mm. Getting that last on in can be a little tricky as the tapered bearings will want to push the bearing cup outwards. Having a mate hold the drivers side freed up both of my hands to push the shim in. a slight tap with a soft hammer may also be needed.

 

[dilmah]

Step 12 Bearing caps , Backlash and pinion bearing preload

Quickly re install the bearing caps to 70Nm of torque to keep everything in place. It is of upmost importance to put the caps back on their correct side as they are slightly different, labelling during disassemble helps.

I then set up the dial indicatior and checked the backlash. I obtained 0.008 - 0.011mm with is slightly tight as nissan want 0.013 - 0.018mm. Considering I got around 0.01mm when I measured the backlash before removing the old diff centre I was happy with this. It is better to be slightly tight than loose as a loose diff will wear the teeth quicker.

Bearing preload is quiet hard to measure unless you have the correct tool. A needle torque gauge to be correct. I bought one from the states as I could not find a supplier in Perth. Took 2 weeks to get here and slowed my progress considerably. You will have to remove the 4 x 16mm bolts on the tail shaft and move that out of the way. You should now have access tot he pinion nut.

I cannot remember the size of the nut its 28 - 32mm from memory but you will need a 1/2" socket this big attached to the torque wrench and over the nut. Move the wrench until the pinion starts moving at a constant speed. You will see the bar deflect a small amount, take not of what you see. Nissan specify 1.1 - 1.7Nm of rotational torque, I measured mine at 1.8Nm. I contribute this to having a slightly tighter backlash than specified.

If yours is out of spec it will be for 2 reasons;
1) you carrier bearing preload is too great/small and you will need thicker/thinner shims.
2) the pinion nut is to tight/loose and needs to be adjusted

90% of the time if your backlash is correct then this measurement will not be needed, reassemble tail shaft when happy.

 

[dilmah]

Step 13 Putting diff cover back on

Firstly I pushed the grommet through with a flathead screwdriver and pulled from the top with a set of needle nosed pliers.

Apply a thin layer of gasket glue around both metal surfaces then sandwich the gasket in the middle. Replace the 8 x 14mm bolts of the rear diff plate and finger tighten. I did these bolts up in a criss-cross pattern as you would do with a car tyre to put even force not he gasket. Tighten to 50Nm using a torque wrench as per Nissan specs.

Replace drain plug (I put a small amount of sealant on the end) and fill diff with 85W - 140 LSD oil. Mine took 1.2L. replace drain filler plug with 1/2" drive socket

 

[dilmah]

Step 14 Axle reassembly

Wipe axle housing to remove old grease and re grease before inserting axles. Tighten the 4 x 17mm bolts using a beaker bar as its difficult to get the impact in. Reconnect brake lines using flare wrench. Put ABS sensors back in if removed using 12mm socket/spanner. re connect hand brake by inserting lug and putting split pin through it. Replace tyre and repeat on other side.

Raise Nav by diff using trolley jack and remove stands and drop onto wheels. The hard part is now done! Have beer and admire your hard work

 

[Damian m]

Great write up, Sounds like you did a great job there.

Any chance of putting up the part numbers for all the components required?

Thanks

 

[dilmah]

If by part number you mean the E locker serial number I can but not for a while. Im at work and the paperwork is at home. I got the bearings from my local bearing shop, $90 ea apart from the custom made shims a mates old man made for me free of charge the only other cost was some 85W - 140 LSD diff oil which was $30 - $40