Shock Absorber Replacement for D40

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What Doc said.

Reduce tyre pressures to around 26psi or so.

The bouncing you're getting is also from a combination of shock and spring. Springs too firm for the load and it'll bounce hard - see how yours reacts on a shopping centre carpark speedhump. If your tail kicks upwards, your springs are too tight (or you've hit the bump stop!).

Repeated compression of the suspension is dampened by the shock absorbers (which should more accurately be named "motion dampeners"). On corrugations, if the shocks are too restrictive, they won't allow the axle to travel to keep the vehicle weight on the ground. Under these conditions, most shock absorbers heat up rapidly - it's the natural consequence of squeezing oil through small apertures. This heat does get destructive - it will cause the valving to fail inside the shock, reducing its effectiveness (possibly to zero).

Every company will tell you their shocks are the best for your vehicle. My advice is to ignore MOST of what they say and pay attention to the important bits.

First, selecting a shock should probably be done for the harsher of the two terrains you drive on - we have excellent off-road shocks on our car, and they handle the bitument beautifully.

Now the shock you choose should be able to handle the heat. Not only handle it - but SHED it as well. Thin shocks just won't (rules out Dobinson, Monroe and quite a few others). Heavier (thicker) shocks are what to aim for - more oil, greater internal surface area = physically capable of dissipating more heat.

You might also consider replacing the springs - look for multi-rate springs. OME do a dual-rate leaf that is more than capable of handling light loads and heavy ones. Sax Suspension do a triple-rate spring and may have resolved their operational issues so they'd be well worth looking at too.
 
Thanks Doc,
I run the duellers D697 A/T, not sure what pressure is in them, as I only had them fitted a few weeks ago, I will check over the next few days.
So is it worthwhile buying a foam cell shock, or is it more of a gimmick? I don't mind paying extra for a worthwhile extra as long as it is functional. I'm also not looking for a heavy duty shock, just something that may improve overall ride comfort and cornering as I do seem to have a bit of body roll when cornering, or is this more the job of the springs rather than the shocks?
Any suggestions for tried and proven shock/spring combo's?
Thanks
 
Thanks Tony, I will reduce my tyre pressure as you suggest and see how much difference this makes to the ride. I will look at the OME springs, do you have any recommendations for matching shocks?
 
Thanks Doc,
I run the duellers D697 A/T, not sure what pressure is in them, as I only had them fitted a few weeks ago, I will check over the next few days.
So is it worthwhile buying a foam cell shock, or is it more of a gimmick? I don't mind paying extra for a worthwhile extra as long as it is functional. I'm also not looking for a heavy duty shock, just something that may improve overall ride comfort and cornering as I do seem to have a bit of body roll when cornering, or is this more the job of the springs rather than the shocks?
Any suggestions for tried and proven shock/spring combo's?
Thanks

Body roll is more a result of spring rather than shock although the shock will have some effect on this. The stiffer the spring. the more it takes to compress the the loaded side when cornering. Other things do come into play like whether its a constant load or variable rate spring. Constant load being better at controlling body roll. Variable rate easier on your bum and small bumps.

There is no hard and fast combination of spring and shock. Let the gurus work that out for you as every ones needs, the terrain they travel on and the load they carry can be different.

For myself I'm a bit of a fan of a softer spring and more stiffer valving on the shock approach. Also a fan of the Mono tube shock design, in someways no better in performance than a twin tube but where they shine is sustained periods of corrugations or really uneven rough road (bitumen to) at speed they have much less resistance to fade as their heat dissipation far exceeds twin tube design. Dissipation of heat, kinetic energy generated is the shocks or rather dampener's job. The draw back on mono tube style shocks is when used on the rear they can susceptible to damage as a decent dent in the tube will render the shock stuffed as the piston is just the other side of the outer wall. You can usually buy stone guards for rear monos tho. Some people use Monos on the front strut and twin tube design on the rear. Not a bad way to go as leafs tend to be a little self dampening anyway.
 
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Mate, if you've oly just had your tyres fitted and not checked your pressures I would be surprised if they are NOT still at what I lovingly refer to as "tyre fitters should be shot" pressure. They are probably in the region of mid 40's or higher? I run my 697's at 36 all round and that is because my ute spends most of it's life towing the van these days. Have had a good run out of 34 PSI - nice and comfy, and handling was fine.

Now - my ute is a heavy bitch. ARB bar work all-round (front, rear and sides), Warn winch, long rage tank, canopy, storage system - those are the heavy highlights.
 
Now - my ute is a heavy bitch. ARB bar work all-round (front, rear and sides), Warn winch, long rage tank, canopy, storage system - those are the heavy highlights.

This is an important and sometimes poorly judged point.

My car went over the weighbridge EMPTY the other day at 2700kg. Near full tank of fuel, NOTHING in the tub or back seat. I've added roof bars, tray and awning to her - but there she sits, empty, and only 280kg of spare capacity.

I'm wondering if a GVM upgrade is on the cards. The lift (43mm front, 85mm rear) has obviously raised her centre of gravity and so cornering has changed a little - but the better suspension more than copes.

What is the best combination? Not an easy question. I went OME everywhere and I'm happy. Others haven't had the same joy, so either I'm easy to please, or just plain lucky.
 
Thanks guys, you have all given me plenty to think about, your input is very much appreciated. I will let you know how I go.
 
FYI, checked my tyre pressures today for the first time since having the new boots fitted a few weeks ago, front were on 45psi, rears at 40psi, have lowered them to 32 on the front, and 30 on the rears as I don't carry much weight generally. I will run with these pressures for a while and adjust as necessary. Thanks again for your advice. Cheers
 

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