yes. and generally d22's dont have chain problems because they make a bit less power than a standart d40 making 174 hp rather than the 133 of a d22. personally this is probably the first d22 chain snap thread.
Timing chain snapped, engine went bang :(
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yes. and generally d22's dont have chain problems because they make a bit less power than a standart d40 making 174 hp rather than the 133 of a d22. personally this is probably the first d22 chain snap thread.
jonney
Member
yes it was the D-40 2.5 litre not the D-22 as i mentioned. he did mention the D-22,s from 2010 and up have been fitted with a better quality chain.
D40 drivers have long borne the brunt of jibes directed at them over their timing chains by the D22 fraternity who had escaped from the dreaded timing chain failures up until now.
the moment when you say that but its just 1 truck.....
Rabbid-chop
Member
Touch wood.
I'm sure that more D22s will succumb to failed timing chains. It's inevitable - it's a moving part, and they're all getting older. The awesome thing about the D22 is that they've massively outlasted the D40s. I'm not saying that suddenly the D22s have become inferior: I am only saying that age will catch up to them.
You would have ordinarily expected the engineers to consider that a higher output power plant would require a suitably more robust construction. You can bet the result that we call the D40-YD25 powerplant is the result of pressure from bean-counters to shave off a few $ here and there.
You would have ordinarily expected the engineers to consider that a higher output power plant would require a suitably more robust construction. You can bet the result that we call the D40-YD25 powerplant is the result of pressure from bean-counters to shave off a few $ here and there.
Rodm
Member
An interesting point is that it was the upper duplex chain that snapped, not the bottom one that is supposed to be the weaker one. We have the engine out and the head off. Making some enquires with a few second hand motors. Trying to weigh up if repairing this one will cost almost as much as a replacement. One of the cams is snapped in half, obviously need new timing chains and new cogs that they go on as a few of the teeth have been sheered off. Will keep you up to date.
jonney
Member
make sure you replace the chain set with the double row twin chain and cog set, cost is approx $900 for this kit. you should be able to grab another Cam easy enough.
you might be lucky since the upper chain chain broke means less chance the pistons hit the valves making the rebuild way more unprofitable. upper chain breaking that way too unlikely to happen, bad luck i guess. did the truck have cold start rattle from the timing chain area until reaching full temp or rattle disappearing after 3 minutes in morning startup?
Rodm
Member
Yeah it did have that rattle, I did the research and booked it in to get changed but snapped 2 days before it was due it. Thanks for the info, will give an update in a few days.
TerranoZD30
Member
What we do here to prevent that is to replace the hydraulic tensioner every 90.000 to 100.000 kms and the chain will last almost forever! Try to find in to a junk yard.
really common problem on the yd25 when an owner starts realising he should replace the tensioner immediately.
zd30 doesnt have a tensioner problem since its gear and not chain driven.
TerranoZD30
Member
Well we have here in my company from 2007 to 2010 YD25 Japan made then 2011 to 2012 Mexican made and is common to have problems with the tensioners at 120.000 but the most problems that we have was with the upper tensioner leaving the chain loose and in some times breacking the fron cover.
I have a 2006 ZD30 379.000 kms and just about 9.000 ago I replace the timing chain kit for second time just for caution but it was in very good shape.
Back in time with our D22 TD27 4X2 and QD32 4X4 since they have gears pinions and no timing chain we have no problems till we sold them at 500.000 kms.
I have a 2006 ZD30 379.000 kms and just about 9.000 ago I replace the timing chain kit for second time just for caution but it was in very good shape.
Back in time with our D22 TD27 4X2 and QD32 4X4 since they have gears pinions and no timing chain we have no problems till we sold them at 500.000 kms.
jonney
Member
can the tensioner be replaced by just removing the front timing case cover?
or is the job big like the full timing chain replacement ?
or is the job big like the full timing chain replacement ?
just remove the front cover. tensioner is around 100 euro, front cover gasket is another 30. 30 euro labour thats pretty much everything pretty straight forward.
That just lends more strength to the trend we'd noticed in the D40s - it started to look like it wasn't the chains being soft that caused the issue, it seemed that the tensioners weren't keeping the chain taut especially on a cold start (possibly made worse by aftermarket oil filters) and that allowed the chain to stretch, so it was the tensioners that were the cause of the failure.
What doesn't make sense is that the double-row kits sold in Aus often had the genuine Nissan "Sorry I can't keep it up long enough" tensioners in the kits. Also if I recall, one of the double-row kits had failed - I wonder if that was due to the tensioner failing?
The other thing with the tensioners is lubrication. Apparently they're near first in line for oil, but if the oil's drained back from the filter into the sump it'll run dry for a bit (and possibly not return smoothly when the chain pushes during the first few rotations of the motor). Genuine Nissan oil filters are supposed to have a one-way valve to prevent the oil from running back (keeping it "charged") thus avoiding the problem, which is why we also looked at the notion of aftermarket oil filters possibly having an impact on the number of failures. The jury's out on that one, although I suspect poor oil retention might actually not help the tensioners much.
What doesn't make sense is that the double-row kits sold in Aus often had the genuine Nissan "Sorry I can't keep it up long enough" tensioners in the kits. Also if I recall, one of the double-row kits had failed - I wonder if that was due to the tensioner failing?
The other thing with the tensioners is lubrication. Apparently they're near first in line for oil, but if the oil's drained back from the filter into the sump it'll run dry for a bit (and possibly not return smoothly when the chain pushes during the first few rotations of the motor). Genuine Nissan oil filters are supposed to have a one-way valve to prevent the oil from running back (keeping it "charged") thus avoiding the problem, which is why we also looked at the notion of aftermarket oil filters possibly having an impact on the number of failures. The jury's out on that one, although I suspect poor oil retention might actually not help the tensioners much.
every good oil filter has the no drain valve, which is just a piece of rubber mounted on a spring. that said its very crusial to use good oil filters with the yd25 (upside down filter for some reason) image shows how the no drain valve is. pretty sure non named cheap 2 dollar filters dont have any of that fitted. go genuine or mahle, bosch, mann and hummer always.
Rodm
Member
Plenty of interesting info here. Since I have had it I've always used good quality oil filters and oil, I bought it with 70,000kms on the clock and full service history. I've taken some photos I'll put up later. As the chain has broken it has chipped teeth off the cogs and the top tensioner is smashed, so I can't really tell if the tensioner failed first, I'm no mechanic. I'm heading to a Nissan spares place near Melbourne tomorrow to look at a few engines. Think this will be the best way, get a tested engine with a warranty for around $5,000. To repair all the damage I'm looking at 3-4,000 and that doesn't guarantee everything is perfect. Plent of metal was in the bottom of the case and sump.
Rodm
Member
