turbo issues, maybe??

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d40ryan

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ok so ive tried searching it but nothing seems to be whats happening to mine.
im having an issue where it seems like the turbo is lagging?

accelerating and as you reach about 2g revs it seems like the turbo hasent kicked in then suddenly it will lunge straight upto 3g revs really fast with what seems to be full boost, some times the car will speed up quick with it to or it will just jump up and come back down.

other times it seens to get around 2.25g revs and will drop back to 2g and then start what seems to be boosting up again like its dropping a gear but its manuel???

and it only does this some times while driving not all the time,

also there may have been a rattle from the turbo area not sure, could just be the fan belt :s

started yesterday after a 4wd with a fair few hill climbs.
 
I'm thinking it's probably the turbocharger actuator. In the 2008 it was vacuum-driven and looks like this (it's the object in the middle of the photo with the small black hose coming out):

2529.jpg


The actuator can fail to move the turbo vanes for several reasons:

1) Cracked, split or otherwise damaged vacuum hose

2) Damaged vacuum pump (I would think this would cause a CEL to appear)

3) Damaged actuator not responding to vacuum

4) Sticky vanes in the turbo

You can see the arm in the actuator. Start the car and get someone to tap the accelerator while you watch it - it should move in and out.
 
ive also just found if im going 60 in fourth and then put my foot down it will hit redline then drop back down without actually speeding the car up.


will have a look at the actuator
 
A mate of myne had a very similar problem with his Mazda 4wd and it turned out to be his catalytic converter that was fully blocked up and somehow stuffed his turbo...
 
A mate of myne had a very similar problem with his Mazda 4wd and it turned out to be his catalytic converter that was fully blocked up and somehow stuffed his turbo...

excellent.......... how hard is this to remove and check?
 
Not hard to remove , can also give it a wack with a spanner or hammer and if it sounds real solid then could be blocked . My mate smashed all the porcilin and gung out of it and ran even better than before but running without cat converter in my opinion could be bad for the engine (exhaust valves get hotter).
 
It's possible that the clutch is slipping, but it sounded like the primary fault was no boost when expected.

Our turbochargers are actually spinning at idle, they're just not producing any useful boost levels. At around 1500rpm the turbo has revved up enough to start producing useful levels of boost (it's just an air pump, that needs to be driven) and at 2,000 it's at full song.

From the problem description, this wasn't occurring.

The clutch might also be slipping, and might be noticeable once the boost does come on very strong - recall that our maximum torque is at 2,000rpm and max horsepower at considerably higher rpm - but as the torque finally (and suddenly) comes on, a weak clutch might easily surrender to the forces imparted on it and let go. This means he has TWO problems not one.

Glad I have an auto, seems like the best $2,000 I ever spent.
 
Bluenavara said:
Why would the valves get hotter?

Less back pressure from the exhaust ... kinda like what would happen if u took your exhaust off and drove around without it.
 
Less back pressure from the exhaust ... kinda like what would happen if u took your exhaust off and drove around without it.

There is still a turbine in between. I doubt that a small change (decrease) in drive pressure on the turbine, and thus in the exhaust runners, would affect valve temps, let alone increase them.....

I think it's also well established that open turbo back exhausts decrease EGTs, both pre and post turbo, all other factors remaining equal.
 
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ok so thinking it may be more the clutch really fucked.

tried taking off in third and it will just crawl forward, can rev it up a bit but doesnt seem like its turning the wheels, anyone got preferences for heavy duty clutches and solid mass flywheels.
 
ok so thinking it may be more the clutch really fucked.

tried taking off in third and it will just crawl forward, can rev it up a bit but doesnt seem like its turning the wheels, anyone got preferences for heavy duty clutches and solid mass flywheels.
googlee sunbury brakes d40 heavy duty cluthc kit
 
If you can't get or find anything else, Exedy seems to have been a popular and successful implant. Make sure they balance the flywheel/pressure plate combo.

exedy also seem to be very f&*king expensive lol one quote from autobarn for an exedy was 2800 or something i nearly fell over
 
Bluenavara said:
There is still a turbine in between. I doubt that a small change (decrease) in drive pressure on the turbine, and thus in the exhaust runners, would affect valve temps, let alone increase them.....

I think it's also well established that open turbo back exhausts decrease EGTs, both pre and post turbo, all other factors remaining equal.

Oh ok then , I'm not a turbo expert so u probly right.
 
did u work out whether its the clutch or turbo? as my 2007 d40 diesel manual is doing the same
 
did u work out whether its the clutch or turbo? as my 2007 d40 diesel manual is doing the same

Clutch is flogged out. I tried the take off in third trick( it's where you take off in third and see what happens. If she goes pretty much nowhere it's the clutch)
Say goodbye to just over 2 grand.

I chucked in a hd clutch and smf, works a treat.
 

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