iank84
Member
makes it hard, perhaps someone could draft a tech drawing for you (local tech type school) for the fabricator.
Upgrade the original halogen driving lights to LED what could be simpler
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It’s certainly been a head scratcher I can’t for the life of me work out how to fabricate them or where they even would mount so I have given up on it as a bad joke and just started looking for alternatives it’s so frustrating not having a decent place to mount good lights on this vehicle as factory headlights are just a joke probably worst on a modern vehicle I have ever owned to be honest
Where is Tas are you Rhino
Devonport
I have the factory fitted Nudge Bar on my D22 Thai and can take some pics and measurements for you if you like?
Not sure if d22 and d40 are the same I found bar with brackets on eBay for sale in nsw very expensive but I got pictures of brackets earlier today from the listing and seriously am more confused now than ever
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There are a couple of things to remember with LEDs. First, some use driver circuits to overdrive the emitter and this circuit can (and often does) cause radio interference.
The bigger issue for me (and the reason why I've removed 2 small light bars and 2 halogen driving lights) is the difference in light between high and low beam (although upgrading to Narva LED H4 headlight globes has made a pleasant difference). I would be driving along happy to see all of the road in front of me and just hold out the skewer so that the kangaroo I was BBQing with my headlights was cooked and served as I went past. When a car approached, I'd dip my lights and it was like I'd turned everything off and closed my eyes too!
The bigger issue for me (and the reason why I've removed 2 small light bars and 2 halogen driving lights) is the difference in light between high and low beam (although upgrading to Narva LED H4 headlight globes has made a pleasant difference). I would be driving along happy to see all of the road in front of me and just hold out the skewer so that the kangaroo I was BBQing with my headlights was cooked and served as I went past. When a car approached, I'd dip my lights and it was like I'd turned everything off and closed my eyes too!
That’s a good point tony I keep forgetting about that side of good high beam lights it always makes your low beams even worse my personal experience is my eyes are shocking so I love my light and as much as I can get but then I go back to low beam and I really struggle even worse after having a decent set of spotlights turned on for ten or so minutes
landmannnn
Member
And don't forget that as you get older your eyes are less able to adjust quickly as well as having poorer night vision.
If you are old enough, you can remember when halogens first came out. They turned night into day. (Or so we thought)
If you are old enough, you can remember when halogens first came out. They turned night into day. (Or so we thought)
That’s why I like my HIDs. Bright enough to use without any help, and the hi/low is achieved by the bulb itself altering position when u flick or pull the lever on steering column. No change in light intensity or that fraction of a second where different circuits or filaments are lighting up/shutting down. Really makes a difference
I had a set of HIDs once and they drove me crazy they would take ages to warm up and get consistent lighting levels out of them and they always looked like they where flickering on and off ever so slightly so I removed them and went to leds I been happier with the leds personally just don’t seem to get the distance from the led headlights as I did with the HIDs or halogen but it is consistent light that’s why a man needs a decent set of spotlights for high beam in my opinion, at the end of the day it’s horses for courses and what each one of us prefer if everyone likes the exact same thing life would be pretty bland!
That's actually why I upgraded my IPF800s from 100W halogens to 130W halogens - so I could have bright light at a long distance. The small light bars were good for really close stuff, like when you're doing forest trails at night. The large light bar was good for general driving because it lit up the road and put a good amount of light on both roadsides so you could spot the skippies before they leaped at you (most of the time). The halogens meant I could see the skips from about a kilometre away and start cookin' 'em early, there's nothing like underdone roo.
Got to h ave a decent set of exciter boxes for HID s. A bigger wattage than the globes. All those start up and flickering problems go away. If they could make and LED bulb that would throw some distance instead of lighting up the road signs I’d probably use them
I've been tinkering between HID's and LED's for a bit now,
HID's are more trouble than they are worth and I've ended up having nothing but issues.
Apart from being a bit slow to warm up they don't have great longevity and nor are they cheap to replace.
HID's HATE being turned on and off, so with cars now having Auto headlights I absolutely cringe in the Mrs car when we drive under a bridge for a few seconds and it turns the lights on and by the time they warm up they're back off again.
As soon as 1 of the globes blew, I replaced it with LED. I bought the globes that plug directly into the Ballast as I can't be bothered re-wiring them for now.
HID's are more trouble than they are worth and I've ended up having nothing but issues.
Apart from being a bit slow to warm up they don't have great longevity and nor are they cheap to replace.
HID's HATE being turned on and off, so with cars now having Auto headlights I absolutely cringe in the Mrs car when we drive under a bridge for a few seconds and it turns the lights on and by the time they warm up they're back off again.
As soon as 1 of the globes blew, I replaced it with LED. I bought the globes that plug directly into the Ballast as I can't be bothered re-wiring them for now.
I did wonder how these stop start modern vehicles as I call them would go with reliability issues when it came to battery’s, starters, it’s a lot of extra wear and tear auto headlights is just another thing to the list of things to prematurely wear out I suppose I never gave them a thought especially HIDs
Where there is a will there is a way, I've perm disabled start stop on my last 3 cars.. Mazda was the easiest, all I had to do was disconnect the Bonnet switch telling the car the bonnet is open...
The other cars, I used Carista and the ODB2 dongle to disable it from my phone.
Just came across this thread looking for mounting bracket info myself as the nudge bar on my new-to-me Thai D40 has dropped a bit on the drivers side and needs adjusting. I can confirm that the brackets in those photos match what's on my ute. The bolts clamp the 2 parts of the bracket around the chassis rail. I'm gonna fix it if I have time this weekend so I'll try and grab some photos and maybe measurements if I can while I'm at it.
Thankyou but I won’t be needing them I have given up on the darn nudge bar if anyone wants it free to a good home no mounting brackets obviously I bit the big one and bought a steel bull bar ouch
I was speaking to someone a while ago and they said they got rid of their [stop/start] car because the battery and starter had to be replaced just after the warranty expired...big bucks.
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