Urgent help

[nathand22]

Ok that sounds a little more promising.
If its at all possible maybe pulling apart electrical plugs, relays, + fuses and giving them a spray some contact cleaner, and even some compressed air would help get rid of any moisture that may be causing poor connections or even shorting.
The reason i say that is that after the car has sat for a few days it seems like you are getting more response when turning the key, eg glow plugs and a small period when it started.
so this leads me to believe that there may still be moisture trapped somwhere in the electrics.
I would pull apart any or all plugs relays and fuses and give them a go with the contact cleaner, then either blow them out with a compressor or let the contact cleaner dry(which wont take long as it evaporates very fast)

I dont know about water in the injection?? you say that when you drained the fuel filter that NO WATER was present, so if you didnt get water out of the filter/water trap then i dont think you will have water in the injection, BUT it may still be possible.
Did you drain the water trap/filter into a bottle or container so you could see what came out of it??
It may be a good idea to drain that again and collect it in a clear bottle so you can inspect for moisture.

 

[chule]

I'm only clutching at straws here- check the shut off solenoid, vacuum lines and butterfly valve. If its in the closed position the engine won't fire.

 

[4x4 ST-R]

I'm pretty sure that the glow plug light will turn off even if the glow plugs aren't working properly.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Bryce]

Might be completly off track here but is the fuel primer hard when you pump it? Air may have gone in when you drained the filter. This would cause the symptom you are describing (cranking over but not firing). As some fuel makes it it will run for a bit then die. (this happened to me when i had a leak in a fuel hose sucking in air)

 

[nathand22]

I'm pretty sure that the glow plug light will turn off even if the glow plugs aren't working properly.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Im not sure but he did have the glow plug light stay on at first and not go out at all , then after a few days of sitting there it started to turn off as normal.

Might be completly off track here but is the fuel primer hard when you pump it? Air may have gone in when you drained the filter. This would cause the symptom you are describing (cranking over but not firing). As some fuel makes it it will run for a bit then die. (this happened to me when i had a leak in a fuel hose sucking in air)

If you read back through the thread i asked him the same question, the answer was yes it does go hard after priming.

 

[jap55s]

Yeah I have properly fully hard re primed the fuel pump/filter. And diesel is coming out engine side of fuel filter lines.
Glow plug light was initially staying ON entire time, 24hrs later glow plug light was turning off after a few seconds..
How do I check the shut off valve thingy as mentioned..?

 

[nathand22]

Ok that sounds a little more promising.
If its at all possible maybe pulling apart electrical plugs, relays, + fuses and giving them a spray some contact cleaner, and even some compressed air would help get rid of any moisture that may be causing poor connections or even shorting.
The reason i say that is that after the car has sat for a few days it seems like you are getting more response when turning the key, eg glow plugs and a small period when it started.
so this leads me to believe that there may still be moisture trapped somwhere in the electrics.
I would pull apart any or all plugs relays and fuses and give them a go with the contact cleaner, then either blow them out with a compressor or let the contact cleaner dry(which wont take long as it evaporates very fast)

I dont know about water in the injection?? you say that when you drained the fuel filter that NO WATER was present, so if you didnt get water out of the filter/water trap then i dont think you will have water in the injection, BUT it may still be possible.
Did you drain the water trap/filter into a bottle or container so you could see what came out of it??
It may be a good idea to drain that again and collect it in a clear bottle so you can inspect for moisture.

how did you go with trying this ^^^ any luck? did you find any plugs with moisture in them??

 

[jap55s]

Haven't had a chance to get back to ute, been caught up with work. Will be heading out again Friday..

 

[chule]

How do I check the shut off valve thingy as mentioned..?

you did the EGR/swirl mod right? the solenoid in the middle of the bank of 3 (green in colour) is the shut off valve solenoid.

When the engine is runnng and when the engine is shut down the valve remains open. When you turn the ignition off after the engine has been running, the valve actuator closes the valve and then when the engine stop running the valve is returned to the open position ready for the next start.

Trace the vacuum line from the green solenoid to the actuator - its the one at the front of the intake plenum. To test if it's in the open position, push the level mechanism (at the end of the actuating rod) to the left (towards the drivers side) about 90deg. It should close easly and then spring back to open without any effort. If it is locked in the closed position, you will not get the engine to fire - although from your other descriptions it sounds like there is a bunch of stuff going on with your ZD. Also have a look at the vacuum lines - are they still connected, any dirt etc in them causing blockages?

Sorry for the long winded explanation - hope you understand it.

Good luck!

 

[jap55s]

Yes I have done the mod. Ok I'll contact clean spray them. Also test the spring in the solenoid to check if it is open... And check lines also..
Thankyou

 

[chule]

There's no spring in the solenoid- the valve actuator has the moving parts on it. Not 100% sure if the valve is closed or opened via the vacuum

 

[nathand22]

almost certain its vacuum controlled.

 

[jap55s]

Think I found the problem..

Evidence of water present.. No "burn" marks thou

 

[andrew96]

If you want to clean the water stain off, don't use tap water, buy some distilled water. Normal water has chemicals in it that burn the circuits, then use some metho to clean the excess off.
Read the second comment on this thread: http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/signs-water-damaged-ecu-1006464/ hope this helps mate.

 

[jap55s]

I got UTE WORKING problem was water in ecu. I just used hair dryer to dry out and start turn over straight away.. So happy.
But...
Some corrosion has set in. Can I use Co contact cleaner? Or will that short circuit and destroy it?
A new toothbrush? Or too late. Going to fully corrode soon?

 

[nathand22]

thats good news that you got it running again.
I dont think spraying contact cleaner would be a problem as long as the ECU is fully unplugged and you dry it off totally BEFORE re connecting it.
As for the corrosion that may be an issue, maybe someone like "OLD TONY" or "KRAFTY" would be able to tell you how to go about saving it or preventing it from getting worse??

 

[happy john]

go to jacar get some ethanol based cleaner and never ford bonnet deep water without a buddy and be thankfull for all the wonderfull members that have given you good advice without them you would still be stuffed

 

[Bryce]

I wouldnt have a problem spraying it with CO spray if it was mine. I would make sure its all unpluged and maybe disconnect the battery and stomp the brakes so there wont be any residual voltage in any capaciters. As for stopping more corrosion there is another spray you could use but i cant remember what its called.

 

[Black Beautie]

Have you check all the engine fuses?

 

[Old.Tony]

Corrosion is a bastard to stop because once it gets going it just keeps going. For any uncovered metallic areas where you can see it happening, give it a light brush to remove the corrosion. Finally, clean it with a circuit board cleaner and then spray it with circuit lacquer. Don't get the lacquer on the plug points, of course! You can put a smear of vaseline on the plug contacts to stop the lacquer from bonding to them, but after the lacquer has dried you need to clean it off.