White smoke and stalling at speed.

[scalywag shaun]

Hi . My 2.5 yd25ddt engine is giving me grief. It's starts, I drive it. Apon driving it hard when still cold it starts to stall out and spit white smoke if I lift my foot of it will run fine. when the temp is at half way it drives fine also.
Changed the glow plugs no joy going to do filters next. But could this be a timing chain problem?
Or somthing totally difrent?
Thanks.

 

[scalywag shaun]

Hi . My 2.5 yd25ddt engine is giving me grief. It's starts, I drive it. Apon driving it hard when still cold it starts to stall out and spit white smoke if I lift my foot of it will run fine. when the temp is at half way it drives fine also.
Changed the glow plugs no joy going to do filters next. But could this be a timing chain problem?
Or somthing totally difrent?
Thanks.

OK, may be geting closer to the fix on this. After digging around in the engine bay, I have discovered. the temperature censor the bottom one of the 2 has a very loose connection fiddling. Around pushing the plug on and cleaning has now led to the temperature Gauge not fluctuating when revving. I also unplugged briefly the e g R ( and do not know if there is a connection to this being part of the problem) But when driving down the road, no white smoke. No engine stalling, but it does feel like it's hunting. A tiny bit and with that I have also noticed the temperature Gauge drops. Just a tiny bit like a millimetre. Where the terminal is loose and is not making contact properly. I'm wondering if this is the fault. So I shall replace that temperature sensor a s a p and finish this thread off with success I hope.

 

[Old.Tony]

OK, may be geting closer to the fix on this. After digging around in the engine bay, I have discovered. the temperature censor the bottom one of the 2 has a very loose connection fiddling. Around pushing the plug on and cleaning has now led to the temperature Gauge not fluctuating when revving. I also unplugged briefly the e g R ( and do not know if there is a connection to this being part of the problem) But when driving down the road, no white smoke. No engine stalling, but it does feel like it's hunting. A tiny bit and with that I have also noticed the temperature Gauge drops. Just a tiny bit like a millimetre. Where the terminal is loose and is not making contact properly. I'm wondering if this is the fault. So I shall replace that temperature sensor a s a p and finish this thread off with success I hope.

I'd actually give the electrical connection to the sensor some more attention, try and clean and tighten it up. Make sure the sensor is connecting properly - it sounds like some attention to the thing actually worked.

If the ECU senses low coolant temperature it will command things differently - more fuel, less EGR.

You might also have a slightly dirty SCV (this causes hunting). It's usually solved by adding a bottle of injector cleaner. My go-to for this was always Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment, but we were in Tailem Bend for the Supercars round in August and they didn't have any, so we threw a bottle of Nulon injector cleaner in the tank - problem resolved.

Unplugging the EGR valve should end up giving you a Check Engine light. If yours is an older model, you'd get away with putting a blanking plate in (I added one to the EGR valve side of the EGR tube by making a copy of the gasket out of 1mm stainless steel, and didn't make the main hole). This way the engine still thinks it's doing the EGR thing.

 

[scalywag shaun]

I'd actually give the electrical connection to the sensor some more attention, try and clean and tighten it up. Make sure the sensor is connecting properly - it sounds like some attention to the thing actually worked.

If the ECU senses low coolant temperature it will command things differently - more fuel, less EGR.

You might also have a slightly dirty SCV (this causes hunting). It's usually solved by adding a bottle of injector cleaner. My go-to for this was always Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment, but we were in Tailem Bend for the Supercars round in August and they didn't have any, so we threw a bottle of Nulon injector cleaner in the tank - problem resolved.

Unplugging the EGR valve should end up giving you a Check Engine light. If yours is an older model, you'd get away with putting a blanking plate in (I added one to the EGR valve side of the EGR tube by making a copy of the gasket out of 1mm stainless steel, and didn't make the main hole). This way the engine still thinks it's doing the EGR thing.

Thanks for your input, usfull to no and would not hurt doing this stuff.
I can add more info to this now as had a code reader put on to the system last night by a friend and he says it's come up with two codes that will not go away. One if for the top o2 sensor the othere is the temp senser that the ecu uses , the temp is reading -5 when engine was worming up the o2 was just not working this was also causing the maf to intermittent problems but once deleated it stayed deleted open running the engine. Here is my puzzling dilemma, were is the o2 on a 2006 2.5 engine as I can see no evidence of one at all , no wires no plugs just pipe covers every were . Very puzzled at the moment.

 

[scalywag shaun]

So this is what I found in this intake system, full up with carbon oil and crud. Now cleaning it out

 

[hotshot 5691]

So this is what I found in this intake system, full up with carbon oil and crud. Now cleaning it out

Hi.
Greetings from Oamaru Sth island New Zealand.
My vehicle is 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel.

U may need to check head gasket as it's possibly theres a leak into combustion chamber.
Its common these fail at 160.000 km if coolant ain't replaced on time.

This decarbonizing is done every 160.000 k.m on clock according to service bulletin. The injector seat washers are to be replaced every 100.000 k.m.

I'm in process of replacing head gasket using the same 0.95 mm thickness.

Nissan New Zealand and Australia do not carry these gaskets and it's 4 weeks to 6 months away they state. Nissan is the worst in parts support.

I opted for Spareto. Link is as follows. Just set your vehicle band and year. I've set this link to 2012.

https://spareto.com/t/vehicles/nissan/nissa-navara-d40-2-dot-5-dci-4wd/engine/cylinder-head-parts

 

[leondante]

Hello from Spain. I suggest you to check the timing chain loose play. These kind of failures could be a warning of the chain being too long and close to break. So I'd be careful of checking it. Also the chain tensioner could be the thing. I've a link to a very good article about it on the YD25 engine and I'll try to share the link later and hope it helps.

 

[leondante]

Hi.
Greetings from Oamaru Sth island New Zealand.
My vehicle is 2012 Spanish built Nissan Navara D40 St-X Diesel.

U may need to check head gasket as it's possibly theres a leak into combustion chamber.
Its common these fail at 160.000 km if coolant ain't replaced on time.

This decarbonizing is done every 160.000 k.m on clock according to service bulletin. The injector seat washers are to be replaced every 100.000 k.m.

I'm in process of replacing head gasket using the same 0.95 mm thickness.

Nissan New Zealand and Australia do not carry these gaskets and it's 4 weeks to 6 months away they state. Nissan is the worst in parts support.

I opted for Spareto. Link is as follows. Just set your vehicle band and year. I've set this link to 2012.

Hello. Regarding the times to change the washers and cleaning the carbon, I wanted to ask you the source of that information and if you could share the file or whatever it is. I'd love to know what things should be taken care of and when, but I only have the enormous original workshop manual where I can't spend all my life reading it. My truck would die before I finish reading all that stuff. Thanks.

 

[scalywag shaun]

Hello from Spain. I suggest you to check the timing chain loose play. These kind of failures could be a warning of the chain being too long and close to break. So I'd be careful of checking it. Also the chain tensioner could be the thing. I've a link to a very good article about it on the YD25 engine and I'll try to share the link later and hope it helps.

Thanks.

 

[leondante]

Thanks.

Here it is. A nice and neat article about it. Hope again it helps:

http://www.yd25.com.au/index.php/services/diagnose-timing-chain-fault/manual-method

 

[scalywag shaun]

Here it is. A nice and neat article about it. Hope again it helps:

http://www.yd25.com.au/index.php/services/diagnose-timing-chain-fault/manual-method

Thanks I'll give it a read .

 

[scalywag shaun]

OK, thanks all. Iv now sorted this out. It turnd out to be a dirty oxygen sensor located in the air box doun tube befor the filter. As soon as I cleand it the car ran as it should.

 

[scalywag shaun]

OK, thanks all. Iv now sorted this out. It turnd out to be a dirty oxygen sensor located in the air box doun tube befor the filter. As soon as I cleand it the car ran as it should.

OK, this thread soon went skwiffy on my part sory. Any way turns out my pump was bad. The timing in side the pump locked up solid. Ie the advanced and retard thing inside. So just had a recon pump fited and all is fine now.