Electronic Rust Protection

i no ive read a little on the forum about it, i noticed alot of members have it. thoughts? i want to go with a brand ruststop rs-5. The nav hasnt been off the road yet, i want everything ready before i get out there.

thanks karl

I'm a believer.

I have one installed in my Navara, because I know that iron oxide (rust) is created when an electron is lost from the Fe (iron) atom and this combines with an O (oxygen) atom producing the molecule FeO. The box, pulsating like it does, interferes to an extent, but not completely with this process. It's not perfect, but any improvement is better than nothing at all.

There's a reasonable article by Collyn Rivers on the subject here. Some might not agree with some of the things this guy writes, but personally I have a great deal of respect for his words - they make a lot of sense.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll have a read of it.
karl

I also believe.

I have Couplertec ERP, it comes with a written 10 year guarantee against rust damage. It is used by Surf Life Saving clubs around Australia and also BHP. It was the first mod I did to my ute.

I sat on the phone to the couplertec dealer from goldie for about 10 minutes, I didnt say a word, he just went on and on about it trying to explain. Sounds very good, but $$

Mine cost me something like $895.

I'd rather pay that, than $500 to have a small amount of rust removed - because the second time it happens, my magic box just paid for itself.

The one im looking at is abut 370 installed, used by the "us" navy. but hey i dunno, im short on cash atm. I live close the water so i get salt spray, its getting a wash today, but still. i guess its just save save save.

I went with a couplertec 4 pad.

There are a lot out there Cathodic systems out there which do not suit vehicles. These are designed for structures and boats which are in contact with a ground.

Well looks like its couplertec. Seems what everyone is going for. Ill do the service with nissan and start saving after that. Knowing what there like they'll take everything i have saved atm.

Thanks for all the advice guys.
Karl

I cant make a firm comment as i dont have the rust protection module but i do know new cars dont rust like old cars, thay are designed different, have a lot more plastic bits where water tends to sit, more durable paint and etch coats. Im not against the rust protection module but my car has not rusted yet after 7 years and iv given it a floggin through rivers and off road. A lot of people dont know with old cars especially the valiants the body panels were made from already rusty sheets of metal so the cars had no chance of protecting them from rust and the paint themselves was shocking and provided no protection from the weather at all.

I'm with Solid here a bit. I put the ERPS system on my car but lots of people I know haven't put them on. I don't reckon new cars rust like the older ones (except BA falcons, but thats a whole other story!) I got mine sprayed underneath with rust protection aswell just because I do a bit of beachwork, the guy who did it reckons there really is no substitute for the old fashioned rust control.

I still think it is cheap insurance and would put it on my next car. I'm not the most fastidious car cleaner so I guess its a bit of peice of mind that the car will survive my laziness.

That may be the case for fresh water but salt is a whole different story.

It's the rust you can't see that causes the most damage. Inside chassis rails, engine parts, suspension etc. I just see it as an insurance policy.

Thats true saltwater will kill the car quicker, i know as a fact my chassis is almost full of mud, when the car was on the hoist getting the solid front end put in, i had a look at the chassis through one of the drain holes and it was just chock a block full of mud, it would of accumalated over the years but i remember one particular time i tried going through a boghole and got stuck the muddy water eventually leaked into the interior, because the front end was in deeper than the rear the water came over the foot pedals up under the seat and just onto the gearshift leather/pvc plastic cover. It seemed deep being in the car and your can hear your soaking runners splashing around inside the car, it was not fun and did stink for a long time afterwards. I guess what im saying is my chassis lifespan is well shortened.

There is a reason for salt water being worse. Salt added to water becomes ions of sodium and chlorine, which allow the passage of electrons more freely - so salt water is more conductive than fresh water.

Being more conductive, those electrons looking to leave the ferrous atoms are able to do so more freely, so the combination of Fe + O occurs at a higher rate. It rusts quicker.

Salt water makes the ERPS' job more difficult. You'll find that the further extremes of your vehicle, even protected with one of these devices, will still suffer - but at a reduced rate.

It's part of the reason they have specific 4WD units, they have more pads = more coverage = more protection.

The one I put on by Couplertec is Capacitive Coupling based, not to be confused with an Impressed Current or Sacrificial Anode system.

Can anyone post a pic of what this unit looks like, or more so the pads you are talking about?

Here ya go mate:

Couplertec - 4WD "Self Fit Kit"

Jason said:

Here ya go mate:

Couplertec - 4WD "Self Fit Kit"

Click to expand...

Looks like a combination of ERPS and good old fish oil etc is the way to go if you plan on keeping your truck for a long time. If you trade in every few years, just go the fish oil.
Whale oil works well too, if you can get it.

Most people recommend a combination of both as you've said.

08KINGCAB said:

Looks like a combination of ERPS and good old fish oil etc is the way to go if you plan on keeping your truck for a long time. If you trade in every few years, just go the fish oil.
Whale oil works well too, if you can get it.

Click to expand...

If you use whale oil the greenies might ram you off the road. lol.