I can recall something about having to take the tow ball off unless you are towing. But who knows QLD laws are so out dated that the new ones get ignored until they become outdated as well.
It is a nut welded to a plate so that it can be slid through the cross member and not spin when you are doing the bolt up. I had to get Rusty to make one for me when I was fitting mine.
If it were me I would stick the two sensors in a pipe at either end and put a tyre valve in the center. Then pressurize it to what ever the standard exhaust pressure is and the DPF regen should never run again.
Or at least that is how it would work in my head.
Hell mine does not have a problem towing anything. Anything up to 1.5T is hardly noticeable.
Ok a list for the ZD30 guys to improve towing a bit. Then it is up to driving skill.
1: EGT Gauge!
2: EGR blank plate (stops exhaust gas going through your intake)
3: Free Flowing Exhaust from the...
I was getting about 7.7L to 100km when I first stuck the turbo on. Then I went and had it tuned and now it is at 13.8L per 100km. I have been saying it for a good year and a half now but I need to get the fuel turned down a little.
Just the explosive airbags if your model has them.
Mine doesn't have any airbags. Hell my motorbike has a bigger wiring loom than the QD32 does. But then our tractors are made to last. Not like those "D40 Money sucking piece of shit" I keep reading about.
I still can't fault my Nav. Keep in mind it is not a D40 but I have put 40k on it and the only problem I have had was the negative terminal clamp lost its grip. Being that it is a 1998 model and has a full service history (thank you previous owners) the only things I have had to replace were the...
If I remember right the V6 diesel has the turbo in the middle of the V. Which is a terrible place for it. A nice heat shield and a bonnet scoop would fix that right up though.
With it facing the right way you get a ram air effect pushing air down the snorkel letting the turbo spool easier. With it facing the other way you would get air moving around the head and the turbo having to suck harder to pull air in.
Less dust yes but harder on your engine. And those...
A turbo timer is a good idea but not needed. Just remember to let your car idle for a while after a drive. It lets the turbo cool down some and keeps the oil flowing through. Oil will cook on the inside of a turbo if there is no flow and too much heat.
Ohh and your engine would be a CRD not a...