Adding 2-Stroke oil to Diesel
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happy john
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No it only works in a dmax
rabbit-chop
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I like it. I find it shuts the clatter up on the cold mornings on my zd30 and overall runs smoother and gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling too. Ive got both the Castrol active and the shell advance, I use one or the other depending whats handy at the time, and often neglect to put any in at all. I notice more of a difference with the shell advance.
zed
Member
I think it does ! I'll ask the Injector man when I see him and give you he's thoughts ! he would know, he's old school and would know better than me !
rabbit-chop
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$10 says he shitcans the idea and says don't do it.
happy john
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Hey Rabbit did you find the source of that annoying noise?
rabbit-chop
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Nah, iv been too half arsed to have a look but my money is on the drum brake
zed
Member
hmmm he's usually pretty strait forward ! but will see huh ! and no - no bet that's a ten'a towards my service ,') ok ok more like a can of 101- but stil,l your not getting it Rab ! 
zed
Member
danm my dyslexia *still not getting it lol
K
KraftyPg
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You'd never use it in a Dmax, they get shit hot economy as they stand and there is no noise in them at all. Shit hot trucks them Dmax!
happy john
Member
Yeah the dmax man drives another type of car at work the good old dmax is for the wife and boy him gets it on weekend no serious offroad yet.
I wouldn't use castor oil. Castor oil doesn't combust - at least, it doesn't in my model aircraft engines, I have to wipe the crap off the wings of my planes.
You have to use a low-ash formula oil. The highest mineral grade is JASO-FC and the best that I've found is Castrol Activ 2T - Valvoline makes one too but it's not as effective.
You can go for a JASO-FD rated oil but being fully synthetic it won't be the same and it'll be a LOT more expensive.
The oil chemically combines with diesel (diesel being an oil anyway) and modifies its combustion properties. Unleaded does similarly (it's more an emulsion than a chemical combination) - but in the other direction. Oil burns slowly so deepening the oil mix would lengthen the burn (more torque at lower rpm). Adding unleaded would decrease the burn time adding horsepower but not increasing the torque. LP gas would be similar (because it also burns fast).
Why use the low ash formula? Our DPFs, mostly, but also to ensure that the oil does burn pretty much completely. As the piston descends in the power stroke, the fuel is supposed to burn to completion before the piston starts to rise again. With a slow-burning fuel you wouldn't want to have it rise quickly - so a long, slow stroke is the answer. I haven't tried it - now that I think of it, I will - I don't think the engine will like high rpm with a bootfull of 2-stroke.
I'll put 600ml in my tank (150L) when I next refuel - probably during this week, got about 30L left in the tank) - and I'll take it out to the Charlestown Bypass and give it a hammering.
You have to use a low-ash formula oil. The highest mineral grade is JASO-FC and the best that I've found is Castrol Activ 2T - Valvoline makes one too but it's not as effective.
You can go for a JASO-FD rated oil but being fully synthetic it won't be the same and it'll be a LOT more expensive.
The oil chemically combines with diesel (diesel being an oil anyway) and modifies its combustion properties. Unleaded does similarly (it's more an emulsion than a chemical combination) - but in the other direction. Oil burns slowly so deepening the oil mix would lengthen the burn (more torque at lower rpm). Adding unleaded would decrease the burn time adding horsepower but not increasing the torque. LP gas would be similar (because it also burns fast).
Why use the low ash formula? Our DPFs, mostly, but also to ensure that the oil does burn pretty much completely. As the piston descends in the power stroke, the fuel is supposed to burn to completion before the piston starts to rise again. With a slow-burning fuel you wouldn't want to have it rise quickly - so a long, slow stroke is the answer. I haven't tried it - now that I think of it, I will - I don't think the engine will like high rpm with a bootfull of 2-stroke.
I'll put 600ml in my tank (150L) when I next refuel - probably during this week, got about 30L left in the tank) - and I'll take it out to the Charlestown Bypass and give it a hammering.
Tappet
Member
Are you serious?
Apart from being a carcinogen, naptha (Shellite) is dangerous shit. It's advisable to read this document to learn more about handling it.
I've just read that. It can boil at 50C - holy shit! Don't use it in summer, where ground temps can exceed that. Its flashpoint is -30C (gasp) and its vapour will settle and ignite from a distance.
With such a dangerous product, the benefits would have to be significant. What made you think of using it?
I've just read that. It can boil at 50C - holy shit! Don't use it in summer, where ground temps can exceed that. Its flashpoint is -30C (gasp) and its vapour will settle and ignite from a distance.
With such a dangerous product, the benefits would have to be significant. What made you think of using it?
bods
Member
^^^ I wonder if he meant castrol 2t racing oil? Lol
