D
Dave
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Good work as always Dion.
Dave.
Dave.
D21 Build Log
- Thread starter Dion
- Start date
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I'd call that a succinct summary of Moe.
Supportive as always Dave, thank-you kindly
So it's been two months since the QD32 replaced the TD27, for those playing along at home I thought I'd offer a bit of a review of the value of the swap.
Fuel economy is basically unchanged, just over 10L/100km unloaded. It's still quite the smokey bear as I haven't done the injectors on this one either. Babying it doesn't seem to affect the economy much, but maintaining 110km/h up hill and down dale makes the needle move visibly.
The idle is much smoother though I think that was an engine-specific thing again to do with the injectors.
There are a few nice differences, like the separate vacuum pump (which makes the alternator cheaper to replace and the plumbing shorter), the power steering fluid reservoir bolted to the intake manifold, and the nicer looking intake manifold.
The power - well, if you really bury your foot in the carpet it'll do 110km/h up most hills. It's still no race car. The big difference is in the take-off. Where you couldn't do much with the TD27, the QD32 will keep the wheels spinning through second on hot tarmac (on private property of course), which isn't bad for a 340,000km motor.
The torque - probably the best feature of this swap. Listening to the quiet unstressed baritone exhaust as you're swept up hills in 5th at 60km/h (1800rpm) is one of life's little pleasures for diesel lovers, and it doesn't seem to notice any sized load in the tray. Towing trailers still kicks it in the guts though.
I certainly wouldn't call this swap alone worthwhile. To really reap the benefits, the following challenges shouldn't be far down the list: diff ratio swap (down to 4.375 or lower, it's a torquey motor), turbocharger, intercooler, big exhaust.
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MaXiLeeCH
Member
Well, I have just sat here in front of my computer absolutely mesmerised!
What an awesome buildup, I dips me lid to ya Dion, I think you'll make a fine automotive engineer.
I'm a D21 owner too though my work has been more to replace the rusty old pickup tray with an alloy tray and a whole heap of general maintenance stuff, like replacing my cars steering box, shocks, filters, plugs etc.
My old bus has well over 500,000K's on her and is still going strong with its original un-rebuilt Z24S engine.
One question I do have, I see you have fitted pathy doors and guards to your Nav, are they a bolt on job to any D21 series Nav?
Keep up the great work, I am following your work with great interest.
(I'm a retired Mechanic)
What an awesome buildup, I dips me lid to ya Dion, I think you'll make a fine automotive engineer.
I'm a D21 owner too though my work has been more to replace the rusty old pickup tray with an alloy tray and a whole heap of general maintenance stuff, like replacing my cars steering box, shocks, filters, plugs etc.
My old bus has well over 500,000K's on her and is still going strong with its original un-rebuilt Z24S engine.
One question I do have, I see you have fitted pathy doors and guards to your Nav, are they a bolt on job to any D21 series Nav?
Keep up the great work, I am following your work with great interest.
(I'm a retired Mechanic)
I fitted a pathfinder door of unknown vintage to my d21. An easy job mechanically but the Pathy doors had electric window and lock so had to wire them up. Picture in my gallery of the switches next to the handbrake. Also different mirror so drilled a few holes in door to put original mirror on new door. Again picture in the gallery b
So bolt in with complications.
So bolt in with complications.
Thanks Max, nice to hear the D21 is going strong
It's mostly compatible. Mine weren't electric so the doors are just bolt up and adjust, swap locks, done. The quarter panels are totally bolt up compatible. There are some hitches with the bonnet and grille (you have to have the compatible grille too, the older Navara grille and pathfinder panels are not compatible). With the bonnet, you have to shorten the handle for the bonnet safety catch or it will hit. With the headlights and grille, some nuts aren't already welded to the body so you have to add loose nuts, no big deal. Final thing is you need a bullbar or compatible bumper as the older Navara bumper has no indicators built in, and is positioned wrong.
It's mostly compatible. Mine weren't electric so the doors are just bolt up and adjust, swap locks, done. The quarter panels are totally bolt up compatible. There are some hitches with the bonnet and grille (you have to have the compatible grille too, the older Navara grille and pathfinder panels are not compatible). With the bonnet, you have to shorten the handle for the bonnet safety catch or it will hit. With the headlights and grille, some nuts aren't already welded to the body so you have to add loose nuts, no big deal. Final thing is you need a bullbar or compatible bumper as the older Navara bumper has no indicators built in, and is positioned wrong.
Aido
Member
You are truly a walking almanac of Navaras Dion.
Most revheads or enthusiastic home mechanics can recite Ford and Holden facts but you have the knowledge and the ability to put even a 20 year veteran mechanic of Nissans to shame.
That tie rod is in the mail monday back to you. Thank you.
What do need in the way of tools at the moment?
Most revheads or enthusiastic home mechanics can recite Ford and Holden facts but you have the knowledge and the ability to put even a 20 year veteran mechanic of Nissans to shame.
That tie rod is in the mail monday back to you. Thank you.
What do need in the way of tools at the moment?
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the feedback.
Are you offroading with the truck? If so I'd recommend mud tyres, bash plates, recovery points, snorkel, winch, in that order.
If you're daily-driving it, depending on if it's the petrol or diesel, I'd recommend a review of diff ratios, I find mine to be far too short so it revs too hard on the freeway, softening rear springs, sound deadening, etc.
If it's a work truck, then it's already perfect
Mine Is a Petrol 1989 model With about 92000 on the clock. as My daily drive and Weekend Offroader so with the winch how do you mount a winch cause i have been looking but find much on the subject.
i was woundering what is the biggest tires to put under its guards cause i tried puting 31x10.50 on but could only turn the wheel about 2 inchs before it hit the guard. so would i have to trim the guards. and what Mud tyres would you recomend. Would you recomend a suspension lift or a body lift to start off with as i am pretty low on funds.
Thanks Again Andrew
Sorry About all the Questions
i was woundering what is the biggest tires to put under its guards cause i tried puting 31x10.50 on but could only turn the wheel about 2 inchs before it hit the guard. so would i have to trim the guards. and what Mud tyres would you recomend. Would you recomend a suspension lift or a body lift to start off with as i am pretty low on funds.
Thanks Again Andrew
Sorry About all the Questions
Attachments
Great looking ute you got there!
I have the exact same bullbar as you as well, although i admit yours is in better condition.
Just a question, did the flared wheel arches come with it when you got it? If not, where abouts can you pick them up?
Cheers, Tom.
I have the exact same bullbar as you as well, although i admit yours is in better condition.
Just a question, did the flared wheel arches come with it when you got it? If not, where abouts can you pick them up?
Cheers, Tom.
Couple of options there.
Buy a winch bar (ARB, TJM used to make them for a D21, you can pick them up second hand but they carry good value)
Build a winch bar, cheaper, harder.
Build a winch cradle - a bullbar minus the hoops and wings.
All of those would be mounted to the chassis rails at the front.
A member called Mat on here had massive Centipedes on his D21, don't know how he managed it, a bit of panel beating I think. Not sure what size
Depends on the rim offset you run too.
I've got Goodyear Wrangler MTRs, I really like them, anything with a really aggressive pattern will work well, but then again I run a different set of tyres on/off road. I'm not really big on the two inch suspension lift and anything bigger than 31" tyres, but a 2" body lift is a valid place to start, can't say it will be cheaper than a suspension lift but I think it's more valid as it actually increases your tyre clearance where a suspension lift doesn't.
Don't be, questions are what we're all here for.Sorry About all the Questions
Thanks!
That's funny because mine is pretty ratshit when you look up close
The wheel arch flares came on some panels I bought that came from a wrecked rusty Pathfinder from Queensland. They were fibreglass and very, very tired. A good thump with your knee and you'd add another crack to them, but they got me through a roadworthy, now I've thrown them in the bin. They barely made it there without turning to powder. I don't know where you can get them any more, I'd just buy some flare rubber and make my own if I wanted some now. I saw a new-old stock set go on eBay a few months ago but I wasn't interested and they cost way more than I was interested in paying.
Thanks man. Ugh, that wiring. It worked fine for ages but now the headlights flicker and the indicators are intermittently faulty (but only when the headlights are on). I think I have a loose body ground behind the dash, so out it comes...
hi thanks for that.
with the body lift i thought of getting one from https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/hardbody-inch-body-lift-p-272.html as a 3 Inch Lift cost About $190AUD and With About $400 in Postage and from what i can tell thant is still cheaper then any where near me so its about $600 for a 3 inch body lift including postage.
Thanks heaps you helped a lot and by the way is there anyone on the forum who has custom built a winch bar
Cheers, Andrew
Any updates with your Truck?
with the body lift i thought of getting one from https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/hardbody-inch-body-lift-p-272.html as a 3 Inch Lift cost About $190AUD and With About $400 in Postage and from what i can tell thant is still cheaper then any where near me so its about $600 for a 3 inch body lift including postage.
Thanks heaps you helped a lot and by the way is there anyone on the forum who has custom built a winch bar
Cheers, Andrew
Any updates with your Truck?
I don't think a 3" body lift is legal here but look into that before committing.
No updates, I just joined the RMIT Formula SAE Racing Team so between that and working seven days a week and moving house, the Navara doesn't get a look-in! I am getting an enclosed concrete floored workshop all my own when I move house this week though.
No updates, I just joined the RMIT Formula SAE Racing Team so between that and working seven days a week and moving house, the Navara doesn't get a look-in! I am getting an enclosed concrete floored workshop all my own when I move house this week though.
