D22 idle probs

[juzzy]

Hi guys, for a little while now I've had a problem with my idle. It's rough on start up and sometimes keeps conking out, but is ok once warmed up, other times I might get to traffic lights and it will idle fine but then does a big drop in revs almost like the car is doing a big shiver.

It's done this ever since I towed a heavy load one day, nissan can't seem to find the problem as its something that happens every now and then, and never seems to happen for them when it's in the workshop.

It stopped doing it for a while but now it's back, I'm wondering whether its a fuel line thing or something else. It's a 2010 model and I'm wondering if any of you guys have had a similar problem or can shed some light and advice on this for me!

Many thanks
Juzzy

 

[Sunny Coaster]

Hey mate, mine randomly starting coughing on idle on the early morning cold start up as well, it doesn't conk out tho and once warm it goes away. Started happening after the 40thou service... I just put it down to the cold weather and I also don't think my computer was reset after my mechanic changed my fuel filter

 

[Old.Tony]

Hard starting when cold is usually a sign of poorly-performing glow plugs. That your problem lessens when the engine warms up only strengthens that.

The loss of RPM at random times (like when you're putting your foot down) could be ballooning turbo hosing.

Both problems could be symptoms of a minor leak on the suction side of the fuel pump, but high up - so there's enough fuel in the line for the pump to not de-prime causing the vehicle to be near impossible to start.

Here's something to try. Next morning, jump out and lift the bonnet and squeeze the primer. You should get 5-6 squeezes and the thing should go fairly hard - and be difficult to squeeze further. If you can go past that, there's a leak where air seeps into the hose and that's probably your culprit.

 

[juzzy]

Hard starting when cold is usually a sign of poorly-performing glow plugs. That your problem lessens when the engine warms up only strengthens that.

The loss of RPM at random times (like when you're putting your foot down) could be ballooning turbo hosing.

Both problems could be symptoms of a minor leak on the suction side of the fuel pump, but high up - so there's enough fuel in the line for the pump to not de-prime causing the vehicle to be near impossible to start.

Here's something to try. Next morning, jump out and lift the bonnet and squeeze the primer. You should get 5-6 squeezes and the thing should go fairly hard - and be difficult to squeeze further. If you can go past that, there's a leak where air seeps into the hose and that's probably your culprit.

ok thanks for the info mate i will try in the morning. yes something is def wrong im sick of it being so random, i filemed my odo as it was doing it.. im not sure how to post vids on here tho to show ya

 

[juzzy]

Hey mate, mine randomly starting coughing on idle on the early morning cold start up as well, it doesn't conk out tho and once warm it goes away. Started happening after the 40thou service... I just put it down to the cold weather and I also don't think my computer was reset after my mechanic changed my fuel filter

hey mate, yeah mine started happening just before 40k service they couldnt find it when it went in and it stopped for a little bit once i got car back but after a few days it started again.

 

[juzzy]

heres a video of what my car is doing..


http://youtu.be/cVJ_NinkM8Y

my phone vibrates at 25 seconds so brace yourself because it scares the hell out of you if you have the volume up.

please note that once the car stalls at the end engine light and that comes on.. this problem never logs a fault in the computer so im assuming it just does that cause the car has stalled

things i think it could be are:
* Air Temp control sensor
*Crap in fuel line
*Leak in fuel line as old tony said
*Filter housing?

what are your thoughts?

 

[Sandy]

D22 idle problems

I have a 2009 model and it started to play up last year
First thoughts were air in fuel system/blocked filter and a host of other similar thoughts as car started then stopped or ran rough until it had the boot put up it and it warmed up some what. The problem didn't totally go away. Ended up being the suction control valve in the fuel pump, which got replaced.
Now nearly a year down the track and car starts normally then just cuts out!
But if you start the car and give it a boot full of revs it sorts itself out and seems to be normal
Have just had it in at my mechanic, they have another Nav in there with similar problems
Now, the guys have diagnosed the trouble with the other car "Timing Chain"
They believe that it is the same problem my Nav has
The sensor, senses that there is a problem and just stops the car
This could just be a very sensitive sensor or my chain could be worn out
My Nav has 140000 on the clock and has never been flogged or used to tow
The other Nav is a council truck and would have had the guts wrung out of it
Looking about $3 grand all up to have the timing chain replaced

 

[bods]

Could be a faulty crank angle sensor, accelerator pedal sensor or maf sensor too. Diesels aren't as simple as they used to be.

I'm pretty sure there's a pedal reset procedure on here somewhere which you could try. You can also easily inspect the maf sensor to see if it's dirty. If your air filter is dirty there's a very good chance your maf sensor is too.

As for the crank angle sensor, that's more a case of replacement, there's not really any way to check it without replacing it...

Good luck finding the problem...

Another thing to check is earths, battery terminals, cables to body and engine and ecu earth. Bad earths can cause all sorts of weird problems.

 

[happy john]

Why do you have to reset the ecu when you change your fuel filter? i have heard of it not sure why.
John

 

[Navmania]

Why do you have to reset the ecu when you change your fuel filter? i have heard of it not sure why. John

Because apparently the ECU increases the fuel rail pressure to allow for the filter get dirty than when you change the filter it can cause fuel rail pressure faults and limp mode. Apparently when Nissan change the filter on a service they will reset the ECU for this reason.

Mine idles funny to and my crank angle sensor has been replaced through a breakage. Wonder if that has something to do with mine.

Cheers.

 

[juzzy]

Could be a faulty crank angle sensor, accelerator pedal sensor or maf sensor too. Diesels aren't as simple as they used to be.

I'm pretty sure there's a pedal reset procedure on here somewhere which you could try. You can also easily inspect the maf sensor to see if it's dirty. If your air filter is dirty there's a very good chance your maf sensor is too.

As for the crank angle sensor, that's more a case of replacement, there's not really any way to check it without replacing it...

Good luck finding the problem...

Another thing to check is earths, battery terminals, cables to body and engine and ecu earth. Bad earths can cause all sorts of weird problems.

My car is in at nissan at the moment, they have had it two days, and the problems doesnt seem to be happening for them, ive shown them the above video and tomorrow i will show them a video of me reversing 10 m out my driveway saturday night and the thing just cuts out, then me trying to start it and failing, had to give it heaps of revs for it to stay on. its not logging any codes either which is shitting me.

 

[Rumpig]

There's a new recall for Patrols for a stalling problem because of dodgy throttle position sensors, wouldn't be suprised if the Navara uses the same TPS. Might be worth mentioning this to nissan.

 

[juzzy]

ok will do cheers rumpig