D40 cutting out at low revs.

[bakerv3]

Hi all. I guess this subject has been mentioned numerous times, but I think my scenario is a little different.
Nissan Navara 2006 (D40 4wd)
A year ago the car ran fine. The engine seemed to pulse in waves (just the sound of it), but that was all. I got some P0135 diag errors which I just kept resetting.
Then during Winter (Estonia, so it's cold) the car wouldn't keep running until the engine had warmed up for a couple of minutes and then it was fine. It just stalled on tickover and required the engine warm up switch to be on (keeping it at about 1400rpm). It was annoying, but I thought it was just the extreme cold.
However it started getting worse and it only ran well if the engine was fully up to temperature. Now it's Summer and hot outside, but not NOTHING will keep the engine running on tickover. When it's hot it will run for maybe 20 seconds on tickover and then just cut out.
Yesterday I changed the Post Cat Lanbda sensor to cure the P0135 errors to see if that helped. I've not driven it, but have left it running a while in the driveway, but the cutting out still exists.
Using Torque on my phone with a cheap dongle I can't see any O2 sensor readings, so not able to tell if the Lambda issue is fixed.
Also earlier this year I found lots of fuses were not in place (and never had been), so I just added correct fuses where there were blanks.
I cleaned the MAF sensor also.

Ideas?

 

[Old.Tony]

Sounds like a failing SCV on the fuel pump. Have you tried a bottle of injector cleaner in it?

 

[bakerv3]

Hi. No, but will try tomorrow. I tested the primer bulb. It leaks back a little, but squeezing it when running doesn't help. I also rinsed out the fuel filter.

 

[bakerv3]

Hi. No, but will try tomorrow. I tested the primer bulb. It leaks back a little, but squeezing it when running doesn't help. I also rinsed out the fuel filter.

 

[bakerv3]

Thanks

 

[bakerv3]

So, I took the scv out, 2 ohms, physically functioning on 12v, took apart, ultrasonic cleaned and looks perfect. Reset fuel pump via pedal push timings. Still the same :-(

 

[bakerv3]

Latest: I took the Cam angle sensor out and checked it. When I put it back it it ticked over fine, but I hadn't done the bolt up. When back in place it's still bad. I can reproduce by pulling the sensor out a bit so it runs on tickler, but it won't rev past 2k (limp home).
Not sure what any of this means. I need to be able to see real-time data of crank and cam sensors to see if they line up (2:1). If not then it could be a timing chain issue.

 

[RobR]

You could check the plug on the fuel rail pressure sensor, remove it, spray with contact cleaner and plug it back in. My problems started with minor starting problems and progressively got worse over time, to the point where it started doing all sorts of weird things including what you are experiencing. Eventually I was having to pull over at some stage every time I drove it to restart the motor or clear errors if they occurred with an OBDII scanner or it would go into limp mode. After years of trouble shooting, including replacing the SCV and replacing untold parts, etc; cleaning the connections on the Fuel Pressure sensor was the fix, so simple and so cheap.

 

[bakerv3]

Thanks @RobR, but unfortunately it made no difference. I've run DPF and injector cleaner through to no avail.
It's off to the doctors tomorrow lunchtime. I'll update afterwards.

 

[RobR]

Possibly a problem with the fuel rail, either the pressure release valve or the pressure sensor itself. Good luck.

 

[Jim Mikoz]

My D40 4WD had major problems at start up would hardly run and missed could not rev up put it down to some new fuel I add purchased so I added Fuel Doctor, and the engine came right. I now add 100mls after about three tank fulls. Have had no problems since. Heard kero works as well and I give the tank 100mls of that as well after all the diesels run on kero in the Antartica.

 

[bakerv3]

Hi. Latest news. I took it to a garage with a better OBDII than me. They found a P0340 code in the ECU. This is pointing to a stretched timing chain I think. However, first I'll find the crank sensor, test it and clean the electrical connections.
I've asked for a quote to change both timing chains plus ancillery belts all the same. If it's expensive I'll just do it myself.

 

[Billy54]

My D40 4WD had major problems at start up would hardly run and missed could not rev up put it down to some new fuel I add purchased so I added Fuel Doctor, and the engine came right. I now add 100mls after about three tank fulls. Have had no problems since. Heard kero works as well and I give the tank 100mls of that as well after all the diesels run on kero in the Antartica.

Hi Jim, I don't know about the Kero, but if you follow the instructions with the Fuel Doctor you will notice the difference. Maybe smarter brains than mine on this forum can comment on the kero.

 

[Old.Tony]

Kero doesn't lubricate so I'd hesitate to run it raw in any diesel with a high output fuel pump. Certainly running it at a small fraction of your fuel load is okay, it will help lower the gel point of the diesel, but it will also reduce the power (probably not by a noticeable amount). Kerosene will not clean injectors - it's a fuel, not a solvent, derived from similar processes to diesel fuel but with less lubricity.