D40 strange overheating
- Thread starter vool104
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Well, I just double checked my 2008 STX. Definitely no electric fan - not in front, not behind the radiator.
Vehicle has been mine since new and I perform all servicing and maintenance, so it hasn't been sneakily removed in someone's workshop.
Don't what else to say.
Vehicle has been mine since new and I perform all servicing and maintenance, so it hasn't been sneakily removed in someone's workshop.
Don't what else to say.
Never rule out a head-gasket or cracked head just because there is no oil in the water bottle or water in the oil, or any of the other symptoms you mentioned. Cracks in alloy can be very sneaky at times
When my D22 head got a crack due to getting a tiny gulp of water prior to me fitting a snorkel none of those things happened, had full power ran like clock work and was no oil in water or water in oil and no smell or sign of coolant.
At first it did exactly what you describe with the temp gage, BUT as time went on the symptoms became more evident, the water bottle would periodically over flow when the temp rose, then it actual started to hydraulic lock when trying to start but only Sometimes.
All the while still with no loss of power, no water or oil where it shouldn't be nothing.
It was almost like the crack was so small (at first) that it would only open up when under load, as someone has pointed out when you are on a hill if you look at a scanguage or similar you can see the temp go from around 88' deg to 95' deg so maybe only when under strain and up at 95'deg the crack allows small amount of gas into the cooling system and in turn heating the water far more rapidly then normal.
Im not saying you 100% have that issue, it was just my experience and it puzzled allot of my friends and father all who have rebuilt engines and have a keen interest in engines with a very sound mechanical knowledge.
My point is dont rule it out and be aware it may get worse slowly or very and rapidly.
When my D22 head got a crack due to getting a tiny gulp of water prior to me fitting a snorkel none of those things happened, had full power ran like clock work and was no oil in water or water in oil and no smell or sign of coolant.
At first it did exactly what you describe with the temp gage, BUT as time went on the symptoms became more evident, the water bottle would periodically over flow when the temp rose, then it actual started to hydraulic lock when trying to start but only Sometimes.
All the while still with no loss of power, no water or oil where it shouldn't be nothing.
It was almost like the crack was so small (at first) that it would only open up when under load, as someone has pointed out when you are on a hill if you look at a scanguage or similar you can see the temp go from around 88' deg to 95' deg so maybe only when under strain and up at 95'deg the crack allows small amount of gas into the cooling system and in turn heating the water far more rapidly then normal.
Im not saying you 100% have that issue, it was just my experience and it puzzled allot of my friends and father all who have rebuilt engines and have a keen interest in engines with a very sound mechanical knowledge.
My point is dont rule it out and be aware it may get worse slowly or very and rapidly.
Aussie Frontier
Member
I just had mine in getting checked out for the A/C as the fan wasnt running. As it turns out there was nothing wrong with the system at all. Now Tony helped me a heap with this and actually if the A/C pressure is below 1580kpa the thermo fan doesnt run until engine temps go above 95 degrees.If however the A/C pressure is above 1580kpa then the thermo fan runs when you turn on the A/C.
Now all this is for the VQ40 V6 Petrol engine but am pretty sure the YD25 will more than likely be similar.
To test the thermo fan I think its
Turn on ignition
Push the drivers door light switch 10 times in 20 seconds
Turn off the Ignition
Turn it straight back on
The BCM will go through a set of tests including wipers lights and thermo fan on both speeds
As to the temp issue on hills mine does exactly the same thing. 89 on the flat or at idle and 93 up hills under load. Back to flat and back to 89
Now all this is for the VQ40 V6 Petrol engine but am pretty sure the YD25 will more than likely be similar.
To test the thermo fan I think its
Turn on ignition
Push the drivers door light switch 10 times in 20 seconds
Turn off the Ignition
Turn it straight back on
The BCM will go through a set of tests including wipers lights and thermo fan on both speeds
As to the temp issue on hills mine does exactly the same thing. 89 on the flat or at idle and 93 up hills under load. Back to flat and back to 89
Well I'll be stuffed. Mine has the fan. I just found it, here's how to see it - it's not easy to find.
Stand in front of the car with the bonnet up looking straight at the turbocharger. Lean forward so your eyes are near the charge air hose, and look THROUGH the engine-driven fan. Tucked down in the bottom quarter of the radiator is a small electric fan.
With my wife's help, we started the car (cold engine, A/C off) and noted the fan wasn't operating. Turning on the A/C did NOT start the electric fan - I guess it'll need to be a warm engine for that.
My engine won't get warm enough before it gets to the dealer tomorrow, and I'll mention this to them as well, but I'll watch it tomorrow when we go up the valley for the weekend.
Stand in front of the car with the bonnet up looking straight at the turbocharger. Lean forward so your eyes are near the charge air hose, and look THROUGH the engine-driven fan. Tucked down in the bottom quarter of the radiator is a small electric fan.
With my wife's help, we started the car (cold engine, A/C off) and noted the fan wasn't operating. Turning on the A/C did NOT start the electric fan - I guess it'll need to be a warm engine for that.
My engine won't get warm enough before it gets to the dealer tomorrow, and I'll mention this to them as well, but I'll watch it tomorrow when we go up the valley for the weekend.
I'll have another look - thanks for the directions Tony. Will have to do some yoga to climb over bulbar etc
Hi guys, just an update on the issue I was having, I bit the bullet and pulled the radiator out, un-picked the tanks and removed them too find that my radiator was full of corroded like material. Only half the radiator was getting flow. So new radiator is on the way! I feel very relived
I should update on mine too - dealer tested it and the components tested okay but a tank inspection wasn't possible (they don't do it, they send the radiator away and I refused that because I didn't want to lose the car for that long this close to Christmas.
In the new year I'll take it back and they can pull the radiator and get it checked out.
In the new year I'll take it back and they can pull the radiator and get it checked out.
She's just had her 130,000km service, so I'm thinking the cores might be suffering a bit given her age.
kevvyp
Member
Fitting mine today,see how she goes.
kevvyp
Member
Took her for a spin today up some hills that used to make the navs blood boil, all good no more Temp increase
My car's been in to have its radiator removed and tested, the top tank had perished a little but the radiator was 95% functional (that means 5% was blocked).
The service manager admitted that Navara radiators are probably a little underflowed for heavy work but mine was in good condition per Nissan specs so I paid for the testing and left.
Now I'm interested in two things: a replacement radiator with larger cores, and a separate transmission cooler.
The service manager admitted that Navara radiators are probably a little underflowed for heavy work but mine was in good condition per Nissan specs so I paid for the testing and left.
Now I'm interested in two things: a replacement radiator with larger cores, and a separate transmission cooler.
