Dual Battery / Canopy / Tub liner mods advice please

[scottm]

Hi All,

After a bunch of awesome advice (thanks to Rumpig, Old.Tony, d22dave, rabbit-chop, dylan the villain) from this thread http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=28418 I’ve managed to get a bunch of things setup on my 2002 D22 Navara:

Intercooler Fore front industries
Narva headlamps
EGR Blanking Plate
Light bar + Brackets and paint
Turbo Timer
Canopy + Paint
Gauges (EGT/boost + dual volts) + 3 gauge Pillar Pod


Before I go into the dual battery stuff I’ll quickly explain where I’m at with the Canopy and Tubliner (as it has an effect on the Dual Battery setup) I’m hoping that maybe just putting it in writing will give me some clarity about which way to go… I made the decision to buy a Flexiglass canopy (even though it sacrifices some flexibility with the ute) which I got from the wreckers (niss4x4.com.au) for $550 and had a crack at painting it white (not totally happy with my effort as my masking wasn’t perfect so there was some misses near cracks etc but I can fix it - not bad for a first go). The tub liner I had was pretty busted up, didn’t have the top lip (it had been cut) so I bought another one for $100 off gumtree and dropped it in. I thought that the tub liner would create a better seal with the canopy and look better but I didn’t think that the holes the were cut in the tub liner for the sports bar would be so obvious.

You can see in the picture below where I’ve cut some plastic out of the old tub liner the shaper of the holes for the sports bar and stuck them down but it doesn’t look great (sure it fills the gap but it looks pretty rough) even if I silicon around the edge with black I’d have to probably grind 1-2cm’s of the tub liner to get it to finish flush with the canopy. This might turn out ok but….

I’m sort of regretting the new tub liner because I’ve realised that not only does the cutouts look rough (even though I can probably neaten it up) I’ve also sacrificed some space near where the tail lights are and some pretty decent sized batteries could fit. (hold that thought)

So, I have a friend that picked up a dual battery tray for me for $80 (haven’t seen it yet) for under the bonnet which I’m hoping is the one that goes near the fuel filter as I have a forefront intercooler which I believe make the front section unusable. I didn’t realise that it would not fit a decent size AGM battery (thinking 100ah+) so now I’m thinking I need to be exploring a 3rd battery in the tub (either an ArkPac or a big Optima Yellow top. Which if that is the case it would seem silly to have the tub-liner in (hold that thought as well). Maybe I just nix the battery under the bonnet altogether? I’ve purchased a CtekD250S for the setup.

Ultimately I want to have a fridge in the back probably 65L fridge / freezer, what I hadn’t thought about was needing a fridge slide and whether that would even be compatible/sensible with a tub-liner. then there’s the whole if I’m going to get a fridge slider should I just stick draws in (although this does take up a fair bit of room and reduces the flexibility of the vehicle it probably makes sense as keeping things organise for camping etc does make it more pleasant).

Do I just bite the bullet and get rid of the tub liner? To make room for bigger batteries, fridge slide, possibly drawers etc? If so the tub is a bit rough so I’d like to coat it with a spray on something (I have a compressor and spray gun) but $700 seems pretty expensive (something I read in another post).

Are there other options I’m not seeing here?

How does a 3 battery system even work? Do I need 2 x Ctek D250S?

I’ve ordered a 12 fuse block for accessories etc (fridge, awning lights, etc) where should this go? Down the front new dashboard and then run long cables to accessories?

In terms of cabling and lugs etc should I buy a kit or something or just by all the cable / parts individually? I’ve read a few posts about what people have used but it’s hard to know what I should go down and buy for a start. (don’t really know what I’m doing to plan it all out perfectly and want to avoid making 6 trips to the shop). Just a basic idea / start would be awesome.. I’ve seen old.tony mention that 4Ga cable and a 40A breaker is the way to go between starter battery and aux but not sure what else / where to use the smaller cable / lugs etc… I have read about 8 threads on this but having trouble getting clarity about it. I’ll do a write up at the end of it (similar to k3vin’s over http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=28262&highlight=dual+battery&page=2)

Probably have a few more questions but they can wait until I make a decision about the tub liner etc.

Cheers in advance,

-Scott

 

[Navmania]

Check out the D22 electrical thread and look up the wiring diagrams tread and see if any of them are any good for you. I am gaoling to post a diagram on a triple battery setup soon along with some others like trailer plug wiring and brake controller wiring etc. if you have a request let me know what you want to do and I'll see if I can draw something up.

Cheers, Brad.

 

[scottm]

Check out the D22 electrical thread and look up the wiring diagrams tread and see if any of them are any good for you. I am gaoling to post a diagram on a triple battery setup soon along with some others like trailer plug wiring and brake controller wiring etc. if you have a request let me know what you want to do and I'll see if I can draw something up.

Cheers, Brad.

Hey Brad,

That is an awesome thread, thanks so much for all your effort you've put into that so far. Just having everything laid out like that means I can print a couple and really understand how relays work etc (not sure why it's so tricky for me to get my head around - just not wired that way I guess.... )

I actually hadn't thought to have two fuse blocks (one at the dash and one in the tub) so that's probably the way I'll go once I decide where the aux battery is going to go.

Two diagrams I would be super excited about would be:

CtekD250S wiring with solar included
How to include a 3rd battery into the CtekD250S system

Thanks again mate,

Scott

 

[Navmania]

Thanks mate.
I will have a look into them. I have one underway for a triple battery system using Redarc battery management and it can take solar also. It will be the system that I finally use in my Navara. I'll check out the ctek also.

Happy to help. Cheers.

 

[mitch92]

Paint on tub liner.

 

[scottm]

Paint on tub liner.

Hey mitch92,

Definitely leaning that way, thanks for the input.

Just looking around at what people have used the Raptor kit seems popular was available in 2012 for $255 with shutz gun (whatever that is). Which would be well within budget.

What do you have?

Cheers,

-Scott

 

[mitch92]

Nothing, I'm a single cab with steel tray. I wouldn't get a plastic liner though. Even considering getting spray on liner to put on my trailer.

 

[Old.Tony]

Those of us with plastic liners (raises hand) know how much crud gets underneath and could cause issues with corrosion. You avoid that with a spray-on liner.

In either case, you have to affix anything you fit to the bodywork beneath, so you're drilling the liners regardless of what they are.

There's always a risk with more than one battery used to supply power. If your intention is to parallel the batteries to increase your capacity then the two batteries should not only be identical but should be very close in age (ideally, from the same manufacturing batch). This reduces the chance of the two batteries discharging each other over time.

If you want to have one battery providing power for one item, and the other to power other things (eg one battery drives the fridge, the others for lighting, phone charging) then you need to charge them separately (and especially so if they're different size batteries).

 

[ozstickman]

Hey mitch92,



Definitely leaning that way, thanks for the input.



Just looking around at what people have used the Raptor kit seems popular was available in 2012 for $255 with shutz gun (whatever that is). Which would be well within budget.



What do you have?



Cheers,



-Scott

Where do you get the raptor kit from? Years ago when the olds had the panel shop we use to get the same sort of stuff from the rep that came around.

 

[Malicious]

Look around trade supply shops for raptor or contact UPOL for the closets stockist I got mine for $200

 

[ozstickman]

Look around trade supply shops for raptor or contact UPOL for the closets stockist I got mine for $200

Cheers.

 

[wa navigator]

dual battery set up

Hi Scott, just thought I'd throw in two cents worth.
I put a second battery in the tub with a battery isolator under the bonnet. To save any hassles with voltage drop and future installs I ran 8mm cable pos and neg from the battery under the bonnet to the second battery in the back. heres the nifty bit. I mounted a fuse box and powered it from the second battery and fitted an Anderson plug next to the fuse box, both separately powered. I changed my fridge power and charger plug to Anderson so I can run my fridge and direct charge from my Cetec. I have a solar panel which also has an Anderson plug outlet to charge my tub battery. Everything else 12 v outlets canopy lights etc etc from the fuse box

 

[Resto]

Hi Scott, when i bought my d22 it had a canopy already fitted, and the tub floor has carpeted MDF, and some boxes over the wheeltubs, that extend to the front of the tub.
Although i wasnt keen on it at first, it was quite neat and well done so i left it there. As i do a bit of camping with the wife and kids, we bought an 80ltr Waeco and a side (highly reccomend a slide). I mounted it on the right hand side of the tub as far back a i could, and still close tailgate, as the lid opens left to right. This left a space inbetween the side of the fridge and the tub behind the RH wheelarch. I here i have mounted a 100ah battery in a batterybox, and have room for fuses, relays and a switch block. ATM its powered from start battery with redarc isolator (soon to get a ctekD250s). I also have an anderson plug wired in the same system.
I can get a pic tomorrow if you like.
Cheers
Adam

 

[scottm]

Cheers.

It's on eBay for $250 will let you know if I find anywhere for $200.

 

[ozstickman]

It's on eBay for $250 will let you know if I find anywhere for $200.

Cheers

 

[scottm]

Hi Scott, when i bought my d22 it had a canopy already fitted, and the tub floor has carpeted MDF, and some boxes over the wheeltubs, that extend to the front of the tub.

Although i wasnt keen on it at first, it was quite neat and well done so i left it there. As i do a bit of camping with the wife and kids, we bought an 80ltr Waeco and a side (highly reccomend a slide). I mounted it on the right hand side of the tub as far back a i could, and still close tailgate, as the lid opens left to right. This left a space inbetween the side of the fridge and the tub behind the RH wheelarch. I here i have mounted a 100ah battery in a batterybox, and have room for fuses, relays and a switch block. ATM its powered from start battery with redarc isolator (soon to get a ctekD250s). I also have an anderson plug wired in the same system.

I can get a pic tomorrow if you like.

Cheers

Adam

Hi Adam,

Thanks very much for your reply! Would love to see a photo of your setup if possible because I don't quite understand the fridge slide part being mounted as far back as possible (I was thinking I would put it as close t the tailgate as possible).

The dual battery setup sounds neat, would love to see photo of that too... The more I think about it the more i'm leaning towards a sort of box / drawer system with a spray on tub liner. I realise I was being a bit precious about the space in the tub to try and keep the flexibility of being able to put large stuff in the back (firewood etc). I'm realising you can't have it all and I should just do what will bring the most enjoyment (being setup for camping) and get a trailer or whatever if need be.

Look forward to pics, cheers mate,

-Scott

 

[scottm]

Hi Scott, just thought I'd throw in two cents worth.

I put a second battery in the tub with a battery isolator under the bonnet. To save any hassles with voltage drop and future installs I ran 8mm cable pos and neg from the battery under the bonnet to the second battery in the back. heres the nifty bit. I mounted a fuse box and powered it from the second battery and fitted an Anderson plug next to the fuse box, both separately powered. I changed my fridge power and charger plug to Anderson so I can run my fridge and direct charge from my Cetec. I have a solar panel which also has an Anderson plug outlet to charge my tub battery. Everything else 12 v outlets canopy lights etc etc from the fuse box

G'day wanavigator,

Thanks for your $.02 (certainly more valuable to me than that!). Your setup sounds cool, do you have rocker switches etc coming off the fuse block? I want to have some switches. The cabin to control things like camping lights, fridge power, etc so if I run the cable down the back to the aux battery in the tub I think I'd then have to run a bunch of cable back down the tub to the switches ? (Maybe this is where a second fuse block would come in?)

What is the practical advantage of Anderson plugs etc? Is it just so they can be easily I clipped or does it have to do with power rating or something else?

Why would you have your fuse block and Anderson plug powered separately? Sorry for all the newb questions.... I just though that you'd want your Anderson plug for fridge connected to the fuse block to protect from wire catching on fire etc?

Would love to see a few pics of your setup too if possible?

Thanks again!

 

[Navmania]

Here is my setup in the making. Not finished yet but you will get the idea.





Base straps to attach it all to.





Air compressor to go in.





Mounted in position. The space to the left will be for all the electrical stuff.





Frames made and timber all in place. The centre section between the wheel tubs can be slid out so the back can be used as a ute if needed.

















Now for the brain wave I had, the fridge slide pulls out and twists for unreal access.
The setup is now covered with black carpet and has cargo barriers and wire racks above the fridge etc. one complete I will put up proper pics of the whole setup.
This is my 0.05c worth
Cheers.

 

[scottm]

Here is my setup in the making. Not finished yet but you will get the idea.
Now for the brain wave I had, the fridge slide pulls out and twists for unreal access.
The setup is now covered with black carpet and has cargo barriers and wire racks above the fridge etc. one complete I will put up proper pics of the whole setup.
This is my 0.05c worth
Cheers.

Hey mate,

That looks awesome! Definitely worth $.05!! The metal you used looks pretty heavy duty, does it weigh heaps? I can't weld and don't have easy access to a welder (otherwise I'd consider learning, it'd be very useful skill to have I've always wanted to but would really have any idea where to start with what size / type, I'd save a bunch of money if I could weld my own target frame for the rifle range) anyway so I was thinking that I would use the aluminium 25mm x 25mm like http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=24598

Your battery goes in the compartment at the back near the compressor?

When you decided to go with the drawers / boxes in the tub was there one or two things that really helped make the decision?

What is the mechanism for the fridge slide twisting?

Cheers for your input, this is all helping a lot in the decision making process,

-Scott

 

[mitch92]

Was just at paint shop.

Rust-o-leum or something like that, paint on tub liner for $145, comes with all that's needed except masking tape and turps.

Claims do do an 8 foot tray.

In considering it for my trailer