eBay HID driving lights, any good

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It is a Nissan bar bought I bought it off eBay rather than dealer fitted and I'm not 100% certain it's the right on because the cut out for the warn winch sits half under the grille but as I don't have that kind of winch I haven't worried about it. Still happy the check the dimensions for you. To check though are you after the dimensions from the original holes to the grill or the ones I had to drill?
 
Original holes would be great thanks.

Looking at the pics it seems I have a fair bit more depth to the grill on my bar but worth checking.

Cheers
 
I got a set of these lights a couple of weeks ago and they work a treat! i have a arb bullbar and i had to drill new holes for them to fit properly!
 
Original holes would be great thanks.

Looking at the pics it seems I have a fair bit more depth to the grill on my bar but worth checking.

Cheers

Original holes to edge of "white plastic bumper skirt" where it meets the bumper is 30mm, to the chrome of the grille is about 45mm.

My drilled wholes are 15mm further away but because they are shifted towards the centre the chrome of the grill is further away.
 
It is a Nissan bar bought I bought it off eBay rather than dealer fitted and I'm not 100% certain it's the right on because the cut out for the warn winch sits half under the grille but as I don't have that kind of winch I haven't worried about it. Still happy the check the dimensions for you. To check though are you after the dimensions from the original holes to the grill or the ones I had to drill?

The holes are not correct as the 2012 model D40 cannot have factory bars fitted properly. Due to facelift in 2010 and the potental for the bonnet to pop open Nissan stopped making factory steel bars for D40's and only supply alloy bars. I purchased my 2012 D40 new and not knowing ordered a factory steel bar. The dealer fitted an older 2009 factory bar unknown to me. I actually bought the same lights and when I couldn't fit them took my car to another Nissan dealer to ask why the holes where so close to the grill. Service manager took one look at the bar and said it isn't right and you cannot get factory steel 2012 bars. The only way to get a steel bar is to go aftermarket because Nissan stopped suppling steel so they wouldn't then have to fit the extra bonnet catch and upgrade to HD springs becase the bonnet has the potential to pop open if more than 55kg is put on the front of the car without the upgrade. Original dealer admitted fault and replaced my bar with TJM and had to replace and recut my bumper and fit the upgrade. When I took it to TJM for fitting they said the old bar was just wrong and the bumber shouldn't be cut like it was sitting ontop of the bar it should sit behind the bar.
 
B73, I suspected I didn't have the right bar after I fitted it but bought of EBay so couldn't return it. When I bought the truck I spotted the bar a week later and rang the dealer to ask if it was the right one. His response was that the part list didn't show a new part number for the 2012 so presumably the same part still fit. As I say, suspected after fitting that it wasn't quite right but its fitted and hasn't dropped of so I'm living with it .
 
B73, I suspected I didn't have the right bar after I fitted it but bought of EBay so couldn't return it. When I bought the truck I spotted the bar a week later and rang the dealer to ask if it was the right one. His response was that the part list didn't show a new part number for the 2012 so presumably the same part still fit. As I say, suspected after fitting that it wasn't quite right but its fitted and hasn't dropped of so I'm living with it .

Fair enough as long as your happy that's all that matters. Keep in mind you may struggle to fit a winch also. The other dealer told me I'd never fit d/lights or a winch with the way the bar was. Also apparently the chassis can twist with 55kg+ on the front so HD springs should be put on the front. I was really annoyed that my purchase dealer fitted something that isn't available and instead of telling me to go aftermarket just fitted old stock.
 
I have a superwinch which doesn't have the high level controller like the Warn etc so should be able to avoid that problem but I am holding off install until I have the HD springs up front.......just need to sell the hard cover and roof tent to be able to afford it ;0)
 
Arrived in 36 hrs pretty amazed...lights arnt bad i got 2 spreads.cant work out if i love the style or hate them....unsure....wire loom fell apart in a few spots but nothing the soldering iron couldnt fix overall im pretty happy
 
Fitted my set on the weekend. No dramas with the wiring loom. Wire was pretty thick.
Had to drill some extra holes in my ARB commercial bar - inboard by 20 or so mm as the lights fouled at the outer diameter with the middle tube of the bar.
Went for a quick spin and they are nice and bright - 2x spot.
Will get a good test this weekend when I do some country night driving :) see if I can cook some Roos :D
 
I have these lights from ebay.. Every time i hit a bump it starts to flicker.. Maybe just my wiring but i reckon its the lights.. Bumpy road flickered alot than caused to blow my high beam fuse.. Had put a bigger fuse (20amp) still blown cus of the flickering. Im no lecky but ill have to throw some rubber mounts on them to take the vibration.. Apart from that the 75w ones i have really light the road up..
 
I haven't looked at HID startup current, I would imagine it might take a bit to get the arc happening. I wonder if it's the repeated startup current that's blowing the fuse. Earth issue?

What you could do is put a much larger fuse (eg 40A) just off the battery (on its own wire) and run that down to a standard 40A or 60A relay. The relay is fed from the driving light cable to pin 85 (cut the positive power cable heading to the ballast and connect to pin 85) with pin 86 to ground, pin 30 to that 40A fuse and pin 87 out to the ballast.

It adds more components to the thing and more components will always mean more failure points but in this case all you're powering with your high beam circuit is a relay and not the HIDs themselves, so you're safeguarding that circuit.
 
Extra lighting should always be on a separate relay. I've got 2 55w hid hilo kit, 2 75w hid spots and a 150 halogen all together use less than 15 amp peak start up. All hids are eBay specials and never had a problem with em.
 
2x55W = 110W = 9A. Add 2x75W = 150W = 12.5A. 150W halogen = 12.5A so you should be drawing 34A total - something isn't right, if the whole shebang is drawing less than 15A.
 

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