Engine Malfunction Light

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Mark8993

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Hi,
This is my first time posting on this forum, I have been told it is a great place to get info.

I own a 2007 D40 ST-X Turbo Diesel. Today I drove to a shop, parked and when I started my vehicle again the engine malfunction light came on and stayed on (orange), when I got home i turned the engine off and started it again, it stayed there, I haven't disconnected the battery yet to reset the computer. I was just wondering if anyone had any information on common problems to look for, so I may be able to fix the issue myself before I have to take it to a mechanic to be checked.

Any help and information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark.
 
Hey mate you can troubble shoot it yourself, you will need to search on the forum DTC codes and resetting ECU manually which will show you any troubble codes you have registered on the frames.

Or the easy way get an OBD 2 scan tool and it will tell you what code and general information on it and/or anymore trouble codes. Good luck.. Maybe one of the senior members can guide you a little better then me but that's off the top of my head..
 
Welcome to the forum, Mark.

Somewhere buried in the ECU of your car will be an error code which will tell us what the problem is. Nissan themselves will connect a device to the OBD port (which is located just behind the plastic panel where your left knee hits when you slide forward) and read the code to decide how to fix it.

That's the task - get the code. If you have a friend with a ScanGauge, or a bluetooth OBD adapter and diagnostic-capable software on their smartphone (like Torque for Android) then getting the code is really, really easy - there's a menu option for it!

You can get it manually. From the service manual:

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MIL starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).

Now you get to count the blinks. 10 blinks means a zero. Flashes to count should be 0.6 seconds apart (first digit, 0.3 sec for other digits) with a 1.2sec pause between numbers.

Let us know what 4-digit number you come up with (eg 0335) and we'll be able to start.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, but in the end I bit the bullet this morning and took it into a mechanic. They plugged their computer in and read the codes, the fault turned out to be the EGR (engine gas recirculation) Valve. So 1200 dollars later it will be fixed tomorrow morning.

But I do have some more questions about the actual valve itself if anyone would care to enlighten me.
I did a little bit of research and discovered that it seems to be a part that can be blocked off to increase performance and what not. The mechanic said that they would not do that, I did not argue this as I want my car fixed. I assume that it could be to do with the fact that it is illegal as it breaches the emission laws apparently.
But is it true that you can put a plate after the valve and is it generally a DIY job?
Replies would be great,
Thanks!
 
You'd put a stainless steel plate just before the valve. There are threads here with pics that show you where. The exhaust manifold side is hard to get to - I tried, decided I'd have to remove the alternator and wasn't prepared to do that so I just blocked the other end, which takes a couple of minutes.

Your car will be fine with blocking it completely. Post-2010 models have a flow sensor in the EGR valve and require the blanking plate to have a small hole in them to satisfy the sensor - you don't have to worry.

You'll find that there's a minor (and possibly unnoticeable) improvement in performance/economy and you may notice a reduction in smoke under acceleration.

The mechanic wouldn't do it. The fine for YOU modifying your emission controls is something like $13,000. For him, it'd be his business, his family home and maybe even some time in with Bubba. Getting caught is not common for this, but the mechanic won't risk it.
 
Thanks for the info!
I dont fancy myself as much of a mechanic past the simple service and a few other things so I dont think ill worry, im not looking to tweak my rig to every last nut and bolt to get the most out of it, but the more i can learn about the vehicle the better!

Yeah i figured the mechanic wouldnt take any sort of risk which is completely understandable and fair, but if i do ever get keen to tinker with this sort of work it seems fairly simple.

Again, thanks for the replies and information!
 

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