71MME
Member
stuff the ABS and 4x4 issue, you can rewire it so you these systems don't affect the 4x4 operation anymore!!!
I have overridden the electric 4x4
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Excellent! Is it reversible?
71MME
Member
sure is tony, its pretty simple once I figured it out, it will continue to have the ABS and 4WD light on the dash, but with two of mate copping 4 grand repair bills for the ABS system being fuly replaced after having similar faults to mine, I just put tape over the lights in the dash, this is a pretty early setup atm, its quite agricultural, but basically involves a two way switch wired up to be reverse polarity, so it can turn the motor inside the little black box in one direction and the the reverse off the one switch, I will be working on a more permanent soloution shortly and trying to use the elec 4x4 switch on the dash but that's a whole other story there... and will be looking at other options but I can select 4x4 now without a fight against the computers, and that's worth more to me than gold!! lol
I doubt you'll get that on-the-fly switch happening. The transfer case would eat itself first, it's not like a gearbox where part of it can remain turning while the gears change. One day it might be different, but there's a reason why you have to stop, put the car in neutral, run around it twice tapping your hands on all 4 indicator bulbs, get in, flash the headlights twice, adjust the rear view mirror, step on the brake, use the LEFT indicator once, then change from 4HI to 4LO (this works, by the way).
There's only ONE servo that manipulates the transfer case and it rotates through 270 degrees to achieve it (90 degrees every second, so it takes 3 seconds to go from 2HI to 4LO). There's a whole section of thread on it, the first post is here, and you'll see photos of the wiring job plus discussions and pictures on how to make it more workable inside the cabin.
We can't escape the limitations of the transfer case (vehicle must be stopped) but you'll see that there are ways to get around the computer. I was hoping (for our boat owning friends) that we could find a way to engage "2LO" but with a single servo that just isn't going to happen. If there were two - one to manage the engagement of the front drive shaft and the other to change the drive ratio, then no problem - but there's just the one, so we're (for now) stuck with what we have.
There's only ONE servo that manipulates the transfer case and it rotates through 270 degrees to achieve it (90 degrees every second, so it takes 3 seconds to go from 2HI to 4LO). There's a whole section of thread on it, the first post is here, and you'll see photos of the wiring job plus discussions and pictures on how to make it more workable inside the cabin.
We can't escape the limitations of the transfer case (vehicle must be stopped) but you'll see that there are ways to get around the computer. I was hoping (for our boat owning friends) that we could find a way to engage "2LO" but with a single servo that just isn't going to happen. If there were two - one to manage the engagement of the front drive shaft and the other to change the drive ratio, then no problem - but there's just the one, so we're (for now) stuck with what we have.
Yeah that's another way to do it too, but I'm not sure I want hubs that could unlock on me when I needed them to be engaged because of some fault.
In a straight line, or on grass/gravel, 4LO in our cars isn't a problem.
I think sometimes having a lower first gear for takeoff up inclines with a load would be handy - but that's where the auto comes in. Lockable front hubs or not, there's no way to change the final drive ratio on-the-fly other than the factory set gearing unless someone develops a new transfer case which has gearbox functions, and if they do, I'd be asking them to provide those functions pre-engagement of the front drive shaft, allowing those extra gears to be available in both 2WD and 4WD.
Then you'd have the best of both worlds.
Eug
Member
Thanks for clarifying that Old Tony. I always thought that it would be nice to have 2LO for maneuvering the trailer around. That's a shame.
Was watching my mate manually engage low range the other day in his Triton and felt a little envious.
Was watching my mate manually engage low range the other day in his Triton and felt a little envious.
siringo
Member
I just read over that post you quoted Tony where RaptorThumper bypasses the TX case servo. But I'm left wondering why? I haven't read the entire thread I admit.
Is that a 550 Auto specific problem? What problem is he trying to work around? To me it looks like he's just doing what I (a non 550 owner) can already do, or am I missing something altogether????
Now bypassing the ABS, that interests me.
shaggy
Member
Hi Fella's
How do you go with it being roadworthy as you disabled/overridden a safety feature that is built into the d40??.
As sparra04 said buy a d22
Shane
How do you go with it being roadworthy as you disabled/overridden a safety feature that is built into the d40??.
As sparra04 said buy a d22
Shane
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The D22 can't change from LO range to HI range on the fly either.
All that's happening here is the 4WD selection is being forced by the driver, rather than decided on by the car's computer (which will refuse to engage 4WD if the ABS is malfunctioning). D22 guys have an advantage in that they can leave their front hubs unlocked and engage 4LO which gives them an effective 2LO but you can't change to 2HI while moving - so you get part of the way to utopia but not all the way.
Part of what's desired is the ability to start mid-way up a steep hill with 3T behind you and move off without killing the engine. In the D22 you'd burn the clutch out in no time, particularly with the lower engine power. At least in the D40 all you're doing is heating the torque converter up (because you shouldn't tow heavy with a manual, and especially a D40 manual with it's God-forsaken DMF) but it'd still be nice to be able to move off more smoothly.
Kinda like having a 0.2 gear, a 0.6 gear, then 1st, 2nd... It would make those hill starts easier.
All that's happening here is the 4WD selection is being forced by the driver, rather than decided on by the car's computer (which will refuse to engage 4WD if the ABS is malfunctioning). D22 guys have an advantage in that they can leave their front hubs unlocked and engage 4LO which gives them an effective 2LO but you can't change to 2HI while moving - so you get part of the way to utopia but not all the way.
Part of what's desired is the ability to start mid-way up a steep hill with 3T behind you and move off without killing the engine. In the D22 you'd burn the clutch out in no time, particularly with the lower engine power. At least in the D40 all you're doing is heating the torque converter up (because you shouldn't tow heavy with a manual, and especially a D40 manual with it's God-forsaken DMF) but it'd still be nice to be able to move off more smoothly.
Kinda like having a 0.2 gear, a 0.6 gear, then 1st, 2nd... It would make those hill starts easier.
siringo
Member
So, am I correct here?, if your ABS gets damaged out in the middle of the bush, you can't engage 4WD????
If that's the case, then I'm off to Jaycar.
Funny this thread popped up, just the other day I was thinking if there's a way to replace the servo with a stick.
If that's the case, then I'm off to Jaycar.
Funny this thread popped up, just the other day I was thinking if there's a way to replace the servo with a stick.
71MME
Member
that post is similar to what I have done tony, except I used a 3 way switch in reverse polarity setting for one...
Who know is you would get a rwc for the car after having this done, but without having the abs or 4wd light illuminated on the dash, whoudl you even suspect most mechanics to even look?
Apparently You can still get 4H but Not 4L, BUT i have read that you can trick it by turning the car off selecting 4L then turning the ignition on wait for it to engage then start the engine, HOWEVER i havnt unplugged one of the sensors to disable the ABS in order to check if that is correct.
ericcs
Member
i wonder if the result would be the same if the abs fuse was removed or had blown?
I blew my main fuse the other sunday stuffing around with electrics.
What was I to do???
Worked in melbourne the next day and couldnt get a fuse at 8pm....
I swapped with abs fuse, and drove to melbourne... in LIMP mode.. its manual so turbo not work so good in limp mode...
And no kms on odometer as speedo doesnt work!!
What was I to do???
Worked in melbourne the next day and couldnt get a fuse at 8pm....
I swapped with abs fuse, and drove to melbourne... in LIMP mode.. its manual so turbo not work so good in limp mode...
And no kms on odometer as speedo doesnt work!!
I doubt a mechanic would know what you'd done. Seriously, you would need to be an expert in 4WD systems to pick something like that. Would it affect RWC? I doubt that too. It might not meet ADR specs, but it's a technicality that even a pit inspector might easily overlook.
Even Nissan would miss it in a service, because they're reading off a step-by-step list of things to do - and if the list doesn't include looking at the wiring on the back of the transfer case for any changes, then they probably won't see it.
They would notice it if you reported a problem with the transfer case, but I'm guessing that if you do this mod, you've probably assumed ownership of any issues with it!
