No Vacuum.... SOLVED

[Black_Outlaw]

Hi Guys..

Mate has a D40 Navara and it has literally NO POWER.. Straight off I suggested it was the Boost Control Solenoid...

Took the vacuum line from the solenoid and put it onto the turbo actuator.. Still nothing... Restarted the car - and boost was there (stalled the car on the brake and it came on boost - unlike it was before)..

SO - put the lines back to the solenoid - and again, nothing.. So I was happy it was the solenoid..

HOWEVER - putting the vacuum line back on the actuator now also resulted in NO BOOST - and there was NO VACUUM coming through the pipe - or when removing the tube from the Vacuum line itself - none could be felt there either.. Usually it will suck your finger to it a little..

SO - is this a SCV problem? What runs the Vacuum .. engine RPM? Seperate pump?

It's weird that it would have vacuum - and then lose it... I've restarted the car several times now and still get no Vacuum from it...

Cheers..

 

[Old.Tony]

There's a vacuum pump over near the oil filter on the right-hand side of the motor. You could lose vacuum through any crack in the line, but also inside the brake booster which is vacuum assisted.

Run a fresh hose from the vac pump to the solenoid, then from the solenoid to the turbo. Idle the car - the actuator should move. If it doesn't, try going direct from the vac pump to the actuator - it should move as you connect and reconnect the hose while the engine is idling. If there's no movement direct from the vac pump, the vac pump is stuffed (not common). If it DOES move, then either the hoses are cracked/split/loose (common) or the brake booster has a fault (not so common).

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Tony - there is no suction on the metal "outlet" from the Vacuum pump.. It *was* there for a bit, but when we re-started and tested - there was none again.. That rules out the tubing as it's straight from the outlet..

Where does the metal outlet pipe back too? I could feel a rubber tubing, however being in my work suit it was not very "ideal" to be poking around... Has anyone has that hose perish?

I'm *very* familiar with the ole Boost Control Module and how to check that..

What's the go with the Brake Booster - serviceable? Replacement needs?? Or does it run off the timing chain and is a MASSIVE JOB?

 

[Old.Tony]

I didn't want to say it, but it's a big job. Primary timing chain is supposed to come out to remove the pump. Manual simply says that if it's not producing vacuum, replace it.

What's your warranty like?

 

[Black_Outlaw]

It's not my car - and his is a 2009..

Funny thing is - his brakes still works fine, and they are vacuum assisted...

And why would it come and go... Damn Motor Engines and their hi-tech!

 

[steel d40]

There is a couple of outlets on the vacuum pump. One blanked and the other which runs over the engine. 3mm silicone tube costs $15 and takes 20 mins to replace. Replace the lot including the tubing near the pump and see how you go. There is tubing which in located next to the pump which isn't obvious and is best attacked with the liner on the wheel arch removed. Any of these hoses perished, split or dislodged and it's bye bye vacuum and boost.

 

[Black_Outlaw]

I've exhausted my knowledge on them.. Done all the above with changing to new lines, checking for correct fitment etc.. It's off to the Doctors now..

I Will report back when he lets me know what the diagnosis was on his car..

Theory on facebook is the chain has stripped the vacuum pump of all it's gears.. but that would mean chain failure - and this thing idles as quiet as a mouse...

 

[Black_Outlaw]

OK- UPDATE (Tony you can mark this as SOLVED.. Can you also move it into the D40 section, I've incorrectly put in in the 550 forum)...

The issue - the pipe from the VACUUM PUMP to the metal vacuum tubing on the drivers side (which the vacuum line to the boost control solenoid connects to) was perished and allowing air to be sucked in - and thus dirt...

Prick of a job to get to the tube, but we cut it out, sprayed contact cleaner around the area to remove the built up dirt, installed new line - BINGO - Vacuum returned..

SO - Check ALL YOUR LINES, including from the Vacuum pump on the engine...

Fortunately it was a hunch after reading here - so net cost to him was $15 for new replacement lines from SuperCheap..

Thanks.....

 

[steel d40]

Sweet mate glad to here it was so simple and cheap.

 

[Shakour]

Hi , reading all this... I was wondering what size tubing is needed to replace ALL Vaccum lines from pump - solenoid - actuator? I did read 3mm.. ?? (D40 VSK 07)
also would you guys know WHERE is the CAMSHAFT sensor located? ? ive seen one on the back of the tappet-cover right side as facing the engine. Is this the one?
any pics would b awesome. Ive been searching for it... but there is a bit of confusion with CRANKSHAFT and CAMSHAFT sensors.. ! I wanna make sure the firing is on time as it sometimes doesnt respond to sudden acceleration ie; when overtaking. scv is new 1wk old, MAF clean. and a lot of other things done due to this AWESOMENESS of a website. !!! Thought I would try vacum hoses... I did notice though that my brakes are a bit 'spongy '.but if you pump em quickly twice they bite pretty dam good.. pads are 6 mths..
Any suggestions on all this would b GREAT .
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK !!
Cheers.

 

[4 naving]

The d40 vsk 07 doesn't have a camshaft sensor only a crank angle sensor. I think it was in 09/10 that the cam sensor was introduced.

 

[Old.Tony]

Agreed, no cam sensor - the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) is what you're looking for to check timing, however I suspect it's a vac hose problem for you too.

I don't remember exactly what size the tube is, I think it's 3mm internally? Someone know for certain?

 

[steel d40]

3mm it is. Turbosmart at autobarn has nice thick walled 3mm tube. $15 from memory.

 

[steel d40]

Oh and I remember reading somewhere brakes are meant to feel a little spongy on first touch. Can't remember why.

 

[Shakour]

Cheers boys...
I did the lines from Vaccum Pump all the way through to solenoid. No real change in the braking issue. Runs a bit sweeter now with a fresh oil filter and oil change ( Nulon full synthetic for DPF fitted engines). I was just wondering how to check Brake Booster for faulty operation, and regarding the crank sensor... is it located drivers side by taking wheel arch cover? I saw a sensor which I pulled out, held by a 12mm bolt from memory. If anyone can help with part no. for 2007 VSK Auto D40. So far 324.000klms and no issues other than this one. (touch wood).
All feedback GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!!
Cheers

 

[Shakour]

Sorry I forgot to ask.... there is also another sensor on the passengers side, of the rocker cover next to the fire-wall. Thinking back, it looked the same as the sensor that is located on drivers side where the automatic transmission dip-stick enters the engine. Are these the same part no. ? What are their purpose?
thanks again in advance .

 

[Black_Outlaw]

Cranksft Sensor accessed by taking off wheel arch cover.. it's like a long plastic "finger" when you pull it out... Will have some oil on it, but should not be covered in "crap".. if it is, clean and replace..

Vacuum pump leak?

 

[Old.Tony]

Before you go tearing out the brake booster, bypass the turbo actuator solenoid. Boost should come on slow but will be strong above 2,000rpm. If the boost is better, it's your solenoid that either has a bad electrical connection or it's failed (common, actually).

If your brake booster vac lines are failing, your brakes will be much harder to press than normal.

 

[Shakour]

Tnks BlackOutlaw....
i did just that... still leaves me with other sensor that looks to be the same length and shape. ( passenger side rocker cover next to firewall) Which sensor is this??
how can these be tested if faulty or not?
part numbers? I definitely dont wanna deal with Nissan Steelerships... as they tried to charge me $350 for an SCV, when i purchased one online for $168.
Cheers

 

[Old.Tony]

I have the feeling that if you were to buy a Navara - even a D22 - by going to a Nissan dealer and purchasing all of the individual parts, you COULD have had change in your pocket and a Veyron in the driveway.

I also doubt that Nissan is not alone there. Anyone want a McLaren Hilux? How about a Rolls Triton?