Solar panels for camping

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
New battery?
What type?

Try the shading test; start slowly dragging a towel over the solar panel fom the top to the bottom and seen when the charging starts to drop.

Panel is definitely perpendicular to the suns rays both E-W & N-S?

Have you run the tests on the solar panel; open circuit voltage and short circuit current?
Taken a voltage test across the regulator inputs?
 
The battery is an AGM I've been using for a couple of years now & is in good condition.
Ill give the shading test a go tomorrow when the sun is overhead again.
I've measured open circuit voltage of 21v, but not tried short circuit current as my multimeter only goes upto 10a and I was worried I'll blow the fuse in it.
I did notice that as the sun was more directly over the panel it did go up to 7-8amps. The panel is mounted flat on the camper roof & is running N-S
 
3m of cable isn't enough to cause a lot of drop. I've read a few references regarding the solar panel input of the C-Tek being a little slow to get going. It would be interesting to get the following readings:

1) Battery completely disconnected from everything, voltage after 1 hour of sitting disconnected

2) Solar panel disconnected, measure voltage across solar panel leads in full sun

3) Solar panel connected to C-Tek, battery connected, voltage on solar input of C-Tek

4) System fully connected, voltage across battery after 1 hour

5) Same as 4, after 4 hours

Be interesting particularly to see the difference in 4) and 5) knowing what 1) was.
 
Ill do some test today and get back on here tonight.
I'm pretty sure it's not the ctek bcos I use the solar input for the alternator when driving & within a minute it'll be putting near 20a into a well deleted battery
 
Ok after having the battery discounted from any load overnight it read 12.8v with 83ah left in the 110ah battery.
This was at 10am, solar panel voltage was at 21.8v with 6.65amps when reading between the panels output.
When connected to the ctek it was producing the same 21.8v, but with 5amps going into the battery.

At 11 am (sun now directly overhead) the panel was producing 21.5v itself & at the ctek & the battery was at 12.91v. Current from the panel was at 7.89amps with 6.8-7.4amps coming from the ctek.

At 12:30 the panel & ctek were at 19v & battery was at 13.2v. Pan ouput was 8.17amps with the ctek putting in 7.4.
At this stage the battery was at 84.4% capacity with 93.5ah in it.

At 2:30 panel voltage was 18.4v & 6.3amps was going into the battery.
The battery was now at 93.5% with 106ah in it.

At half time of the footy 4:00 the battery was fully charged with the panel producing 18.6v & still 3.2amps going into the battery.

So from what I can see, the ctek is working correctly, it just seems the panel under performs according to what youd expect from a 200w panel.
The next big test will be on hotter day & see if it produces more. Today was around 20 deg though with minimal clouds
 
Ok after having the battery discounted from any load overnight it read 12.8v with 83ah left in the 110ah battery. This was at 10am, solar panel voltage was at 21.8v with 6.65amps when reading between the panels output. When connected to the ctek it was producing the same 21.8v, but with 5amps going into the battery. At 11 am (sun now directly overhead) the panel was producing 21.5v itself & at the ctek & the battery was at 12.91v. Current from the panel was at 7.89amps with 6.8-7.4amps coming from the ctek. At 12:30 the panel & ctek were at 19v & battery was at 13.2v. Pan ouput was 8.17amps with the ctek putting in 7.4. At this stage the battery was at 84.4% capacity with 93.5ah in it. At 2:30 panel voltage was 18.4v & 6.3amps was going into the battery. The battery was now at 93.5% with 106ah in it. At half time of the footy 4:00 the battery was fully charged with the panel producing 18.6v & still 3.2amps going into the battery. So from what I can see, the ctek is working correctly, it just seems the panel under performs according to what youd expect from a 200w panel. The next big test will be on hotter day & see if it produces more. Today was around 20 deg though with minimal clouds

Thanks Boostin for the update

Was keen to see how it all went for you.
Have been watching this thread for a while now.

Even the slightest shadow over the solar panels effect their efficiency. I even give mine a little dust in the mornings to make sure I'm getting the full potential out of the solar panels.

Cheers
Geoff

YEP POCOYO'S V6
 
No worries mate, it took a while to get results, but I got there :).
I think that having the panel flat might be a bit inefficient, but there's no easy way to adjust them on top of the camper roof.
Although I'm little disappointed, if does cover my power needs... and this size panel fits perfectly on my campers roof racks
 
Last edited:
Excellent results, I think.

Panels perform best in full sun angled towards the sun. So it took around 6 hours to put 27Ah into the battery - while that looks like an average of 4.5A per hour, the final stage of charging would have been at the observed 3.2A per hour (this is the 'absorption stage'). Once it's actually full, the current should fall off and the C-Tek should output around 13.2V or so (called the 'float stage').

Sounds like it's doing well. Time to enjoy a camping trip!
 
80W of solar panel manufactured by solar panel manufacturers will be good for about 5A (they say 4A, but we get 5A off ours) for around 5 hours in winter. That's 25Ah in winter. Summer, count on about 7 hours (maybe 8) so that's 35Ah.

Your Engel fridges ought to draw around 1A per hour combined (1A draw, 50% cycle, times 2) so that's 24Ah used.

Your panel should be fairly close to sufficient. You need to angle the panels towards the sun for optimum production. You'll get more than the 5 hours in winter, too - we find that our panels are producing power for as much as 7 hours, although not at full strength
.

Yes these panels are close to sufficient.. I have got similar panels and they are enough for my power demand..Will share out pics soon..
 
Last edited:
Had the opportunity to measure the current on a clear 29 deg day with sun overhead this arvo.
I measured 9.9amps, but im thinking it maybe been a little over that bcos the multimeter is rated to 10a & the leads started to warm up quite quickly b4 j pulled the pin.
I would've tested it with the ctek, but the battery was charged so it wouldn't be delivering much to it.
 
We've just bought two things: another solar panel plus regulator, and a battery monitor like this one that I've tested accuracy over 8 metres from the battery and it's still good, so I'm adding it to my tub power. I do need to rebuild my battery box, I doubt I'll get the chance to do that before the Muster, but at least I'll have solar power on the Nav by then.
 
I got one similar to that for the old mans van..worked great for a few days then somthing turned...volts its perfect (once calibrated) but the amps read about 50% low now.. didnt let any smoke out but..... definatly looking for a replacement..
 
I have a 240 watt folding panel I got from campsalesAU. It is rated at 15 amp for charging. I run a 30 litre engel (over 25 years old) as a fridge and a 60 litre waeco as a freezer on trips. The engel drawers about 2.3 amps but the waeco pulls 7 amps whether fridge or freezer. So my issue is battery capacity, the waeco will kill a 100 amp deep cycle overnight, so after learning the hard way I have two deep cycles to give me enough storage overnight. Should have checked the waeco specs before I brought it. The panel does a great job though and got it on special for $290. CampsalesAU often run promotions via emails. Very happy with the panel
 
Hi Ben, I like your nickname I hope the two get along... Anyway how are you measuring the current draw of the two fridges. The Engel that's 25 year old should draw 3.5 amps when the compressor is running. 7 amps for the waeco must be wrong, depending on the cycle it should use way less. Hard to say if that panel will run the fridges all day and pop a bit of charge back without the alternator supplementing it.

With most of those cheap panels the wiring is inadequate and the regulator generally charges to 13.8, that is ok but for an AGM or calcium you need at least 14.4. To do it properly you need good heavy cable and preferably the solar regulator mounted as close as possible to the Aux battery.
 
I was wondering about the cable length as well, but some of the Waeco circuitry has a "gotcha" in it anyway (model dependent, you'll eventually find out).

We had a Waeco CR140 front-opening fridge in our previous caravan. It typically drew 5.5A when cycling, 6.5 when working hard but was rated to draw 7A. This would regularly kill our battery overnight until I found out why.

The electrical length of cable in our van was something like 5m which for just a short way across the van didn't seem like much but in 12V applications it makes the world of difference. The thinner 6mm cable used was the problem - despite 6mm being the recommended cable for the amount of power being used.

What was happening to us was this: as the sun went down, the solar panels stopped charging the battery. The fridge would start the compressor and the voltage would fall to around 11.9-12V. This was fine to start with. Each subsequent start of the compressor would see the voltage drop a little more (as you'd expect).

By midnight, however, the battery voltage dropped enough so that the voltage presented on the other end of this cable fell below the Waeco circuit's battery protection cutoff voltage. The compressor dutifully stopped, the voltage returned and 30 seconds later the compressor started again. This killed the battery.

Why did that happen? When you place a load on piece of wire, it will present a different voltage on each end due to the amount of the load, the thickness of the cable and the length of the cable. The thinner the cable, the more the drop. The heavier the load, the more the drop. If you have an unloaded cable (just connect a small lead to a battery) and measure both ends you'll see similar voltages on both ends. Run a 5A device with that cable and measure it again - you'll see a difference.

So, knowing that - you may be able to resolve your problem much more satisfactorily. Replace the cable with at least 8G cable, available from Jaycar in a figure 8 (click here for the stuff that I've been buying). For lengths up to about 8m this is going to be enough.

That may not resolve your issue though. It's always good to have heavier cable regardless - you whack in a fuse to protect it anyway, but the heavier cable has less losses and therefore is more efficient. The Waeco circuitry may have a problem of its own. Some models had a polyfuse that was faulty - the fuse itself caused such a large voltage drop across it that the circuit on the other side decided the battery was too low. If you replace your cable, or even easier just use a short (good) cable to test it and still have the cut-out happening, you should be able to get it fixed by Waeco.
 
Ok guys, ive bought another cheapie panel (160w) for my canopy to top up my 110ah battery in my tub.
My meter says that it puts in around 3-4amps in full sun.
My evakool fm70 uses about 2.5amps per hour on average during the day & I turn it down at night due to its esky construction & no digital thermostat control.
After a couple days fishing, the battery stayed up around 90%.
Then a 15min drive each way to the pub brought it up again.
Although i thought the output of the panel wasnt sufficient, it does a really good job & having the alt to charge to through the ctek makes a capable self sufficient system
 
Yeah thats what my guage is saying.....
I jst put the low output down to it being a cheap panel!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top