Turbotech manual boost controller DIY

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180%JOE

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Yesterday I finally fitted my boost controller and I thought I'd do a quick write up on how to install it.

Tools:

Pliers
Sharp Knife
Flat head Screwdriver
Adjustable Wrench

Parts:

Turbotech controller or similar (Turbotech manual turbo boost controller- THE ORIGINAL! | eBay) $40

1m length of hose *6.5mm internal diameter* $6 (to extend existing boost hose)

4x s/s 6-12mm hose clamps $10

1x Zip Tie

Install time: 10mins
Skill Level: Beginner

Step 1:

Locate boost hose between the turbo and wastegate. Using pliers squeeze the clips and move them off the nipples. Next pull hose off.

8A51663A-orig.jpg


Step 2:

Cut two lengths of new hose around 10-15cm. The old hose will not fit with the new boost controller. Attach to both nipples of Boost controller then clamp the ends with hose clamps.

Step 3:

boostcontroller.jpg


Now attach correct hose to Turbo and clamp, then attach other hose to wastegate and clamp. Zip tie out of the way. The boost controller comes pre-set to a small increase. Go for a test drive and check boost level with boost gauge. To increase boost loosen locking nut and turn knob clockwise small increments at a time. Tighten locking nut when happy.

Step 4:

Install is now complete, take a step back, crack open a cold beverage and admire.

B988540F-orig.jpg


Conclusion:

For a grand total of 10mins of my time and an investment of $56 I have a noticeable rise in power and the boost comes on a little sooner and increases steadily right through the rev range. I'm very impressed. It must be noted that I also have a 2.75" exhaust, power chip and high flow filter which I feel helps contribute to the controller's increase. Hope you enjoyed this DIY article.
 
What does adding a manual boost controller actually do? And how does it increase power? Im just asking as i am new to turbos and dont know yet how everything works
 
First of all I set it to 18psi.
It works by using a steel ball held in place by a spring which the tension can be adjusted by the knob. Boost enters from the turbo to the base of the controller and tries to force the ball off it's seat. When there is enough pressure to overcome the spring tension the ball lifts and air passes to the wastegate actuator. Therefore boost can be controlled.
 
First of all I set it to 18psi.
It works by using a steel ball held in place by a spring which the tension can be adjusted by the knob. Boost enters from the turbo to the base of the controller and tries to force the ball off it's seat. When there is enough pressure to overcome the spring tension the ball lifts and air passes to the wastegate actuator. Therefore boost can be controlled.

Oh ok riteeo, although how can you get more power, like how does opening up the controller increase boost, is just i always thought that the ecu controlled the amount of boost (sorry bout what probly seems a silly question, this is my first turbo car and im just trying to understand basically how it all works)

Cheers for the info
 
Nah the d22 zd30 doesnt have a variable vane turbo. The zd30 gu patrols do but the d22 doesnt
 
do you have to run the hose from the boost controller to the waste gate? or can you just have it vent to nothing?
 
You can't just vent it to nothing or you might as well just disconnect it and save yourself the cost of the boost controller. If you just leave it disconnected you will end up over revving the turbo and it may disintegrate, that's why they have the waste gate, as well as to stop over boosting the engine and breaking something...
 
do you have to run the hose from the boost controller to the waste gate? or can you just have it vent to nothing?

If you vent it to nothing, your wastegate will never operate, which means that your turbo will over boost, disintegrate and you'll be up for a new motor pretty quick.
 
Basically the boost controller is just tee'd from ur turbo to ur wastegate. All the boost controller does is restrict the air to ur wastegate so u can up the boost.
 
Sounds like there is some unknowns here.

Engine starts and draws air in throught the intake via the turbo > mixes with fuel then compressed to burn > is vented to exhaust via turbo.

The exhausting of the burnt gas is what makes the turbo spool (not getting too techincal.)

The spooling turbo then draws air in faster through the intake and just keeps getting higher/faster till the point where it would desintergrate.

The waste gate is set to open at a determind pressure to stop the turbo from over spooling.

Nissan set this via a pressure activated waste gate. By stopping or controlling when the waste gate opens you then control how much pressure the turbo can produce.

By adding the 'bleed valve' or 'boost controller' you are setting this to a fixed amount.

Yey.... please correctr me if i'm worng.
 
yeah that roughly right.

however this type of boost controller does one extra thing. normally wastegate gets boost all the time and will start to open at a low boost setting. this is called wastegate creep. the boost controller stops the boost from reaching the wastegate untill the max boost is achieved, thus stopping the wastegate from creeping open at lower boost.
 
yeah that roughly right.

however this type of boost controller does one extra thing. normally wastegate gets boost all the time and will start to open at a low boost setting. this is called wastegate creep. the boost controller stops the boost from reaching the wastegate untill the max boost is achieved, thus stopping the wastegate from creeping open at lower boost.
Is this good or bad?
 
So just to confirm, you can not throw a boost controler onto the 2.5

which 2.5?

the D22 2.5 runs normal turbo so boost controller is fine.
its only variable turbo's you can't (theres a different type of controller for vacuum controlled variable turbo's).
 

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