ARB snorkel or Nissan Genuine?

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OK got the ARB fitted today and did the plastic bag test instead it wasnt a plastic bag...i used my arm over the hole and it actually drew specs of blood and hurt like hell...and thankfully it stalled. so im pretty happy with it all...still waiting to get my diff breather kit...cant wait then i can go swimming..

Thats funny, D40 love bites!. Will the wife be jealous?
 
Received my Nissan branded snorkel from Nizzbits yesterday.
$360 delivered.
Will be fitting it myself at some point in the near future.
Dean
 
I'm also a bit unsure which snorkel to go for, what did your ARB Snorkel cost to buy and get fitted?

I got quoted $635 for the Safari, fitted.
And $700 for the factory fitted Airtec from Nissan.
I think both prices are a bit steep but unfortunately i have to pay for installation because if i attempt it myself I'm odds on to ball it up.

Still undecided...
 
Get prices from different dealers as you'll get different prices,

and I personaly prefer the nissan snorkel as do many others here.

Good luck
 
my ARB snorkel (safari) costed $640 fitted. nissan quoted me $610.

nissan i believe looks slicker however i heard many many bad stories about poor installation...thats y i went the arb. i did the suction stall test and the car stalled after 5secs...well done arb. plus i added an youtube link promoting safari snorkel lol pretty wild.
 
The plastic bag / hand / solid obstruction over the intake is a bit flawed.
It will show up sealing issues for sure, but it will also invoke them.
An engine running through an open snorkel will produce a negative pressure for sure, but starving it makes it suck through weak links. These weak links will fail when a force of massive negative pressure is placed upon them.
Food for thought. A 2.5 litre engine will displace 3.33333 litres every second when idling at 800rpm. The volume of the airbox, ducting and the snorkel couldn't be much more than 10 litres.
I fitted my own snorkel and I am happy with the sealing. I did not use any form of goop, just the foam. It will prevent water ingestion and so long as the snorkel inlet is free from obstruction then the air intake will continue to follow the path of least resistance and not put the foam sealing under any undue stress.


As for another post above regarding silicone sealant. DONT USE ROOF AND GUTTER OR BATHROOM SILICONE. There are silicones available at auto shops that do not emit fumes that will upset the inline fuel/air sensors.
 
you would only test it once just to check...surely 1 air test should be ok...id kinda risk the weak points then to go thru water then find out theres a severe leak with water in the block...

interesting about the fumes cheers for the info.
 
There isnt an emoticon for the Homer Simpson "Doh!"
Once would be enough to either suck the foam gaskets out of place or to break the silicone seal. Break either of those seals and that will be where water enters.
Do it at your own peril.
 
The plastic bag / hand / solid obstruction over the intake is a bit flawed.
It will show up sealing issues for sure, but it will also invoke them.
An engine running through an open snorkel will produce a negative pressure for sure, but starving it makes it suck through weak links. These weak links will fail when a force of massive negative pressure is placed upon them.
Food for thought. A 2.5 litre engine will displace 3.33333 litres every second when idling at 800rpm. The volume of the airbox, ducting and the snorkel couldn't be much more than 10 litres.
I fitted my own snorkel and I am happy with the sealing. I did not use any form of goop, just the foam. It will prevent water ingestion and so long as the snorkel inlet is free from obstruction then the air intake will continue to follow the path of least resistance and not put the foam sealing under any undue stress.


As for another post above regarding silicone sealant. DONT USE ROOF AND GUTTER OR BATHROOM SILICONE. There are silicones available at auto shops that do not emit fumes that will upset the inline fuel/air sensors.


I'm with you on that one... re the snorkel test


Silicones...many can be used as long as they are the type.."neutral cure" and you wont upset engine management or promote corrosion
 
I agree with Aido, putting a bag over the inlet could possibly cause more damage than good. I would spray some silicon oil around the joints while the engine is running and then open up the air box to see if any had transfered through.
 
Hi all,
Been reading for a while now but this is my 1st post. Can anyone show a pic of the Safari snorkle fitted to an 06 Nav 3ltr. Not real happy with the placement/shape of the pipe that runs from the inner guard to air cleaner. Thanks for any help. John
 
Having just redone mine from airbox to snorkel head I have no problem testing it that way, most joins are flat flanges bolted together or tight fitting tapered sleeves sealed and clamped. The wall thickness of the plastic on the Airtec snorkel is very good.

I agree it could invoke leaks in some cases but the other snorkel test you do (driving in water) could be much more expensive than having to redo a join.
 
Hi all,

I don't know about the Nissan installation, but in the Safari installation they recommend the use of a specific polyurethane sealant for the joints. I purchased the required sealant from my local hardware store when I did the installation of my snorkel.

The thing to remember is that snorkels are made from rotomolded polyurethane - silicone will not adhere to it effectively for long periods, and will not (under repeated heat/cold cycles) retain a water tight seal.

If you were to lay a bead of silicone (neutral cure) and a bead of polyurethane sealant along an inconspicuous part of your snorkel and leave them there for a few weeks, in a few weeks time the bead of silicone would peel off intact without leaving a trace. The polyurethane will not - it adheres well to the surface.

Anyway, up to you all of course.

Oh, and the two types of silicone people are referring to are "acid cure" (has a strong vinegar smell) - used on glass as it will etch into the surface and bond well, and "neutral cure" - most often used with aluminium as it won't etch into the surface like acid cure will....
 
The wall thickness of the plastic on the Airtec snorkel is very good.


That being true yes,

but,

the plumbing inside the engine bay is a whole different story as i found when i did the test.

While the snorkel held up fine,
the plumbing inside was collapsing prior to the blockage being sucked down.

If i had secured the blockage I have no doubt that either or both the seals/piping would have let go,
as i found that the engine refused to stall.
 

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