Death Wobbles

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Cheers fellas, as I said I'm as novice as they get. I knew you needed torsion bars for a bullbar, saw they were connected to the bullbar and attempted to put 2 and 2 together. Thanks again, mind is at ease.
 
Torsion bars are part of the suspension, the things your looking at are the bullbar mounting brackets

Torsion bars are part of your suspension,the bullbar hole you used for snatching has nothing to do with your suspension, I guess its confusing if your new to 4x4s.
 
hey mate,so you know what the torsion bar is, if you jump under your ute under where the seats are you will see litteraly a bar,its goes from around the middle of the front door (first pic where my finger is is the adjuster the rear end of the bar sits in ) to the lower control arm (second pic is the front end of the bar where it sits in its braket that bolts to the lower control arm).thats all the torsion bar is.
Hope that helps.
 

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Now that you have your torsion bar/bull bar sorted, did you fix the wobble? Was it the mud build up?
 
All good mate,the only way you learn is ask.i knew absolutely nothing about 4x4 before i got into it.let us know how you go with the wobbles and hopefully its as simple as getting a hose and washing the mud off.
have a good 1
 
since no one else has said i will, why were you going 80-100kmh in 4wd with the hubs locked in?
 
As he has said he is new to four wheel driving. I don't think he knows that this is bad. Black beast if you drive in 4WD on the black top you will stretch your transfer case chain and it will slip and make horrible noises when 4WDing and cost yourself a lot of money mate.
 
Sorry, I sounded harsh.
Old mate at work had a Ford Ranger (Mazda BT) they don't have manual hubs and his diff engagement system failed meaning he was on the freeway at 110km and the front diff engaged. A shattered CV and a drive shaft flailing around under the front end was an unpleasant experience for him but if it had flown out and gone through some ones windscreen, well......
Just thought it was worth mentioning.
 
rule one: only have ur hubs locked on dirt, and unlock them before going onto blacktop. ALWAYS!

rule 2. if u'v broken rule 1 get ur car checked immediately. what fourocker said could happen
 
rule one: only have ur hubs locked on dirt, and unlock them before going onto blacktop. ALWAYS!

rule 2. if u'v broken rule 1 get ur car checked immediately. what fourocker said could happen

Not quite on the first one. You can drive on the highway with the hubs locked in as long as the transfer case is in 2wd. On the sticker on the back of my sun visor it actually recommends running with the hubs locked in and transfer in 2wd for approx 16km every month to run the diff a bit if you don't use 4wd often.

If you really want you can leave the hubs locked in permanently, you will just use more fuel, that's all...
 
Not quite on the first one. You can drive on the highway with the hubs locked in as long as the transfer case is in 2wd. On the sticker on the back of my sun visor it actually recommends running with the hubs locked in and transfer in 2wd for approx 16km every month to run the diff a bit if you don't use 4wd often.

If you really want you can leave the hubs locked in permanently, you will just use more fuel, that's all...

Absolutely correct, got into the habit doing a trip to work and back like this on my night shift week ends so I don't forget, it spreads the oil around against the seals and bearings so they don't dry off and bind.
 
Yeah in theory it would although I've never seen or read anything to indicate this as the favoured way, if you know what I mean, don't know why either. My driveway is steepish and when I back the camper trailer up to the garage I use 4 low with the front hubs un-locked so I don't get torque wind up in the drive shafts and transfer case, no issues with this in all the vehicles I've had with part time 4wd.
 

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