Hub Temp and Bearing Torque

[OneMofo]

Called CBC bearings in Silverwater and they looked them up for me, they stated its for an 2001 onwards and $78 a side for the kit, didn't say anything between the difference of Jap and Thai builds though, so illl pick them up tomorrow and see if they fit up.
Ill up date you then.

 

[OneMofo]

So i replaced a few of the bearings up front, for a ute thats done 165K the bearings were in great nick so i only changed the ones located in the hub its self, the one`s being held in place by a large nut a washer and two screws. my question now is how tight does that nut need to be that holds the disk/hub in place??
when i un-did the nut the first time it wasnt tight at all (not sure if its suppose to be or not).
After i finished i took it for a drive and the hub were quite hot to the touch, i`m thinking this maybe because i`v done the nut too tight, on the second drive it wasnt hot at all, so i pulled the drivers side apart anyways and found the nut had loosened by itself i think due to all the new grease settling in.
So thats my story for today, anyone who has done this im sure by now you have figured out i have no idea how tight that nut needs to be.

Cheers Steve

 

[OneMofo]

Gents,

Just finished replacing my front brake pads, CV`s, outer hub bearings and UCA`s on my 08 D22, my issue is that before doing this i never noticed the temp in the hub after driving, now that i have done all this after a 20k drive to the city i am noticing there is a fair bit of heat in the hub, to a point where i cant leave my hand on the hub as its too hot. There is a odd smell but i think thats the grease resadue i left on the disc, the wheel spins freely and there is no movement in the wheel when jacked up. i have re-checked the drivers side bearings and found that the locking nut that holds the hub and bearing in place had loosened so it wasnt too tight, in saying that i dont have a torque wrench to set it to what ever the correct setting is. The questions i have ( i have searched but cant find anything hon the site ):
How tight does that nut need to be?
Can you over pack the hub with grease?? ( i have used good quality high temp grease )
How much heat does a normal hub generate???

All information would be appreciated thanks

Cheers Steve

 

[chule]

You can definitely over pack the hub with grease- too much in the hub prevents you from manually engaging it. Did you use correct bearing grease? That could answer the question of the smell. The heat could be from a number of things. You said you replaced brake pads; if they're dragging on the rotor they'll heat the hub up quickly. That being said, normal city driving (on and off the brakes) will transfer a fair bit of heat through the hub. Mine get fairly hot after a short drive to work.

There's a specific procedure to preload the hub bearings and then set them. Some don't bother and have no issues. You'll need a hub nut socket and a torque wrench to do it correctly. FYI - tighten hub nut to 90nm and then spin the tire a few times in each direction. Loosen to 0nm then set to 1.5nm. Figures are from memory- someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[tweak'e]

d22 bearings are usually hard to over tighten due to the locking setup. normally have to back it off a tad which makes them run a little loose.

more than likely its the brakes caused the heat. you might be dragging the brakes.

 

[OneMofo]

Ill have another look at the pads and check they are set in correctly, i do have a hub nut socket and will look into buying a torque wrench and set to what you have suggested. Its possible that its the pads but im sure i have clipped them in correctly, its not a red hot temp its just a little over being able to leave my hand on the hub, no noise while driving and i didnt pack every millimeter with grease, i repacked it to the amount that was already in there (i suspect it was last packed from Nissan when new)
I would think that if it were the grease and crap on the rotor that it would be gone by now so ill drive home from work and check over everything again, hopefully i wont smell anything.
Its been a good learning curb to say the least, i can now break down my hub in a couple of minutes.
Thanks for the info tweak`e and chules

 

[fourocker]

I set my wheel bearings with the wheel on and done up properly, the nut should never be absolutely tight as this is the preload setting on the bearing, if it's too tight there will be too much preload and the bearing will be cooked in no time.
Setting: after making sure the bearing is fully hand packed with grease wind the nut in by hand as far as possible, occasionally rotating the wheel and grabbing the whee/tyre at the top and bottom and giving it a rock, take notice how much rock you can feel, now index the nut one location hole at a time ( on the retaining washer ) until there is virtually no rock top to bottom when grabbing the wheel/tyre.
Remember, nut too tight = excessive bearing pressure, heat accelerated bearing wear and rolling resistance.
Nut too loose = increased risk of bearing race pitting/hammering, steering vagueness and possible vibration.

 

[OneMofo]

Cheers for that fourocker much appreciated ill go home tonight when the hub cools ill pull the wheels off and have a good look and give this ago. Should throw all this information together for a sticky for future reference, then add one for the rear end too.

 

[RustyNav09]

The only time i noticed my hubs being hot were when i hit doubke island a couple of months back and stripped a hub internally. I had to use a pair of pliers to disengage them as i couldnt touch them at all. Also at the muster i had to use a mpair of multi grips to lock and free them after i had them shimmed and working again. Still havent tested the new AVM items so i cant say anything abiut them.

Brakes can transfer alot of heat. The heat has to go somewhere.

Rusty

 

[OneMofo]

Tanks Rusty i can turn the hub in and out very easily, when i got home today the brakes were sizzling hot so I'm thinking ill still pull the hub apart and have a look but i think the brakes are rubbing, but I'm not sure why this would be.

 

[OneMofo]

Well it seems i sorted the issue out, i found that my brake master cylinder was on the way out, for some reason (and i still not sure why), the brakes were rock solid some days and soft others, this i think was putting pressure on the rotor/disk, when i got home from work yesterday day the disk was so hot it would sizzle when i splashed a small amount of water on it. (you were right chile)

Last night i pulled both hubs off and removed a little grease and re-applied the hub and bearing nut in a similar fashion to what fourocker suggested in my other thread "D22 2.5 2008 Front Wheel Bearings". tightening the bearings with the wheel on made it a lot easier.
Then i removed the pads again and checked they were set correctly and started to re-bleed the brakes again and this seemed to break the lower cylinder in the master cylinder (hope that makes sense) in other words it wouldn't pump fluid to the callipers at all.
I was up till 1am doing all this and failed so i pulling off the Master cylinder and tried to do what i could to fix it with no success.
I tracked down a 2011 master cylinder in Penrith and after a risky drive out i threw it on and had my local brake guy (thanks Better Brakes in Parramatta) help me do a full bleed out and BINGO all sorted.
Which is good coz for a bit there it looked like i was going to miss this weekend trip to ZogZag.
Anyways all fixed just wanted to say thanks to all that suggested ideas it helped tremdously in fixing my problem. Was a great learning curb for myself.
Cheers Gents.

 

[fourocker]

No worries bloke, it's great to get a handle on things for yourself, not only to save dosh but to help yourself out on a breakdown in the bush, glad you've managed to make great progress with it.

 

[chule]

Glad you got it sorted. It's very satisfying diagnosing and fixing a problem yourself.

 

[ShortyNavros]

Hey Guys,

I know this thread is a tad old but I have recently re-greased my bearings and with the callipers off both rotors spin nice and freely with no axial or end play when tested. When I put my callipers back on the RHS still spins relatively freely (some rubbing from the brake pad, which is normal) but the LHS has virtually no free spin and it feels like the brake pads are impeding the rotor spinning quite significantly. Im not getting massive hub temps so it cant be that bad, but I would like to know how I back the calliper pistons off a little so the LHS rotors spins more freely. I have the service manual so if someone could point me in the right direction that would be handy. Also I am relatively sure this problem existed before I regreased the bearings and its definitely the calipers/brak pads as with the calipers off both rotors spin nice and smoothly. ( I didnt set the proper preload toque but I tightened the lock washer up tight as I could with the three screw driver trick to seat the bearings and then backed it off and re-tightened only lightly to ensure no play in the rotor)

Shorty

 

[bods]

Might be time to rebuild the calipers. How many km on it? I'd be getting a rebuild kit and do both of them probably, just to make sure. I'd say they are getting old and seizing up in the sliders so that would be your best bet to start with......

 

[ShortyNavros]

2004 model with 117000 on the clock. Hmm I dont know diddly squat about brakes I may have to get someone to look at it for me

 

[fourocker]

Calipers are not equalizing as per bods suggestions, try to get both halves of the caliper to move freely.