Landcruiser 80 series airbox into d22.

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Thank you, correction, I got it for $55.
Not sure if it's from petrol or diesel, these are the pics.
Can anyone tell me what adjustments are needed. Ta
 

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Thank you, correction, I got it for $55.
Not sure if it's from petrol or diesel, these are the pics.
Can anyone tell me what adjustments are needed. Ta

That's the same type I used.

Cut the mounting fins off the outlet flange so you can get a reducer over it and give it a spray with some paint to stop the rust. You'll end up with a 90mm OD outlet from memory. I bought a 3.5"-2.75" silicone reducer from here -

http://www.vpw.com.au/category.asp?CatID=788&SubCatID=985&priorCatID=788

I used a short piece of 2.75" exhaust pipe as an internal sleeve to join the air box outlet to the existing nissan turbo inlet hose. It was a bit short because of the extra height of the new air box so I used a short 45deg silicone 2"(I think) to join the black flexible inlet hose to the turbo inlet flange.

You'll most likely have to cut and/or bend some of the old mounting legs on the new air box. I had to cut one off, bend one and make a new one to get it to fit. There was also a bit of A/C pipe relocating (read bending) involved to get it to sit nice and low without making contact with any of the existing bits and pieces in the engine bay.

Blank off the two vacuum outlets with a piece of vacuum hose with some silicone injected into it. Cut off any other bits you dont need and make a hole in it somewhere to refit the O2 sensor.

Keep it as low as you can in the engine bay as this one will sit high - mine just fits under the bonnet - I have no body lift. The water trap is tricky to get to after the install but still possible.

Good luck
 
chule said:
That's the same type I used.

Cut the mounting fins off the outlet flange so you can get a reducer over it and give it a spray with some paint to stop the rust. You'll end up with a 90mm OD outlet from memory. I bought a 3.5"-2.75" silicone reducer from here -

http://www.vpw.com.au/category.asp?CatID=788&SubCatID=985&priorCatID=788

I used a short piece of 2.75" exhaust pipe as an internal sleeve to join the air box outlet to the existing nissan turbo inlet hose. It was a bit short because of the extra height of the new air box so I used a short 45deg silicone 2"(I think) to join the black flexible inlet hose to the turbo inlet flange.

You'll most likely have to cut and/or bend some of the old mounting legs on the new air box. I had to cut one off, bend one and make a new one to get it to fit. There was also a bit of A/C pipe relocating (read bending) involved to get it to sit nice and low without making contact with any of the existing bits and pieces in the engine bay.

Blank off the two vacuum outlets with a piece of vacuum hose with some silicone injected into it. Cut off any other bits you dont need and make a hole in it somewhere to refit the O2 sensor.

Keep it as low as you can in the engine bay as this one will sit high - mine just fits under the bonnet - I have no body lift. The water trap is tricky to get to after the install but still possible.

Good luck

Wow, very in formative, thank you very much
 
chule said:
That's the same type I used.

Cut the mounting fins off the outlet flange so you can get a reducer over it and give it a spray with some paint to stop the rust. You'll end up with a 90mm OD outlet from memory. I bought a 3.5"-2.75" silicone reducer from here -

http://www.vpw.com.au/category.asp?CatID=788&SubCatID=985&priorCatID=788

I used a short piece of 2.75" exhaust pipe as an internal sleeve to join the air box outlet to the existing nissan turbo inlet hose. It was a bit short because of the extra height of the new air box so I used a short 45deg silicone 2"(I think) to join the black flexible inlet hose to the turbo inlet flange.

You'll most likely have to cut and/or bend some of the old mounting legs on the new air box. I had to cut one off, bend one and make a new one to get it to fit. There was also a bit of A/C pipe relocating (read bending) involved to get it to sit nice and low without making contact with any of the existing bits and pieces in the engine bay.

Blank off the two vacuum outlets with a piece of vacuum hose with some silicone injected into it. Cut off any other bits you dont need and make a hole in it somewhere to refit the O2 sensor.

Keep it as low as you can in the engine bay as this one will sit high - mine just fits under the bonnet - I have no body lift. The water trap is tricky to get to after the install but still possible.

Good luck

Also mate can you please put up pics of yours. Ta
 
So that white square piece on the 80 series- I don't use?

no, I just cut that plate off and painted it- then used the spare vacuum hose to blanc off the vacuum outlets at the top.

Sorry I cant post any pics as I'm at work.

you can PM me your mobile number if you like and I can MMS some pics through in the morning when it's light.
 
Hey guys, found a few 1HZ airbox while looking for1 for myself. I still have their emails and contact info if ppl are looking for 1. They all say they have the 1HZ airbox ( which Josh used and said fit perfectly). most of them are asking for around $110 plus postage.

Just let me know and I'll try and dig up the emails out of my inbox. :)
 
Hey guys, found a few 1HZ airbox while looking for1 for myself. I still have their emails and contact info if ppl are looking for 1. They all say they have the 1HZ airbox ( which Josh used and said fit perfectly). most of them are asking for around $110 plus postage.

Just let me know and I'll try and dig up the emails out of my inbox. :)

Hey Porch,

If you could pass on the details that would be awesome

cheers
 
I had a look in quarter panel, couldn't see the next joint that I need. Anyone done this with safari snorkel, an how far along was join? How did you reach it?
 
I don't have a safari snorkle, but to look inside the quarter panel, you don't need to take the wheel flare off. There is a plastic arch cover under the wheel well with about 6 screws that are attached to the flare. Under that and you should be able to see up into the qtr panel and to where the joins to your snorkle are.

That said - the less you need to fiddle with joins inside the qtr panel the better. Its a PITA working in there. Try to dry fit ur new air box if possible and see if you can get away without removing that pipe completely.

Good luck
 
ljacko78 said:
I don't have a safari snorkle, but to look inside the quarter panel, you don't need to take the wheel flare off. There is a plastic arch cover under the wheel well with about 6 screws that are attached to the flare. Under that and you should be able to see up into the qtr panel and to where the joins to your snorkle are.

That said - the less you need to fiddle with joins inside the qtr panel the better. Its a PITA working in there. Try to dry fit ur new air box if possible and see if you can get away without removing that pipe completely.

Good luck

Lol. F**k I'm a dumbarse, I didn't even think of taking that plastic but off. Haha Thanx.
 
thanks to grabbing a box off Bvandermaat while out at Janowen, I just got the new box installed this weekend gone.

Worst bit for mine was cnnecting the snorkle hose to the new box - big fat hands just don't work inside the qtr panel. Lad from work added a pair of hands this arvo and got the last connection done. Trip to Brisbane this weekend will see how it drives

Couple of extra photos included....
 

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Yeah I like the flash of alli and blue in the engine bay. Looks nice. She was a big box too. Seen a few smaller ones people have fit up, but it all works.
 

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