Bvandermaat
Member
Sold to Ljacko. Cheers mate.
Thank you, correction, I got it for $55.
Not sure if it's from petrol or diesel, these are the pics.
Can anyone tell me what adjustments are needed. Ta
chule said:That's the same type I used.
Cut the mounting fins off the outlet flange so you can get a reducer over it and give it a spray with some paint to stop the rust. You'll end up with a 90mm OD outlet from memory. I bought a 3.5"-2.75" silicone reducer from here -
http://www.vpw.com.au/category.asp?CatID=788&SubCatID=985&priorCatID=788
I used a short piece of 2.75" exhaust pipe as an internal sleeve to join the air box outlet to the existing nissan turbo inlet hose. It was a bit short because of the extra height of the new air box so I used a short 45deg silicone 2"(I think) to join the black flexible inlet hose to the turbo inlet flange.
You'll most likely have to cut and/or bend some of the old mounting legs on the new air box. I had to cut one off, bend one and make a new one to get it to fit. There was also a bit of A/C pipe relocating (read bending) involved to get it to sit nice and low without making contact with any of the existing bits and pieces in the engine bay.
Blank off the two vacuum outlets with a piece of vacuum hose with some silicone injected into it. Cut off any other bits you dont need and make a hole in it somewhere to refit the O2 sensor.
Keep it as low as you can in the engine bay as this one will sit high - mine just fits under the bonnet - I have no body lift. The water trap is tricky to get to after the install but still possible.
Good luck
chule said:That's the same type I used.
Cut the mounting fins off the outlet flange so you can get a reducer over it and give it a spray with some paint to stop the rust. You'll end up with a 90mm OD outlet from memory. I bought a 3.5"-2.75" silicone reducer from here -
http://www.vpw.com.au/category.asp?CatID=788&SubCatID=985&priorCatID=788
I used a short piece of 2.75" exhaust pipe as an internal sleeve to join the air box outlet to the existing nissan turbo inlet hose. It was a bit short because of the extra height of the new air box so I used a short 45deg silicone 2"(I think) to join the black flexible inlet hose to the turbo inlet flange.
You'll most likely have to cut and/or bend some of the old mounting legs on the new air box. I had to cut one off, bend one and make a new one to get it to fit. There was also a bit of A/C pipe relocating (read bending) involved to get it to sit nice and low without making contact with any of the existing bits and pieces in the engine bay.
Blank off the two vacuum outlets with a piece of vacuum hose with some silicone injected into it. Cut off any other bits you dont need and make a hole in it somewhere to refit the O2 sensor.
Keep it as low as you can in the engine bay as this one will sit high - mine just fits under the bonnet - I have no body lift. The water trap is tricky to get to after the install but still possible.
Good luck
So that white square piece on the 80 series- I don't use?
Hey guys, found a few 1HZ airbox while looking for1 for myself. I still have their emails and contact info if ppl are looking for 1. They all say they have the 1HZ airbox ( which Josh used and said fit perfectly). most of them are asking for around $110 plus postage.
Just let me know and I'll try and dig up the emails out of my inbox.
Do I need to cut this pipe from snorkel to attach the Airbox?
ljacko78 said:I don't have a safari snorkle, but to look inside the quarter panel, you don't need to take the wheel flare off. There is a plastic arch cover under the wheel well with about 6 screws that are attached to the flare. Under that and you should be able to see up into the qtr panel and to where the joins to your snorkle are.
That said - the less you need to fiddle with joins inside the qtr panel the better. Its a PITA working in there. Try to dry fit ur new air box if possible and see if you can get away without removing that pipe completely.
Good luck
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